Advice sought - repair or replacement oven thermostat

[turquoisedude]

Sigh... I discovered when I received my GE 1956 Kitchen Centre that some wires between the range control in the counter top and the oven unit underneath had been cut. One of the "wires" is for the oven temperature control - it's the one that links the sensor bar in the back of the oven to the thermostat dial.
Now, I figure this would not be repairable (please correct me if I'm wrong!!) but I thought I should try and find out if it is possible to get just the link cable or do I have to get a whole new thermostat? I have seen a couple of places on the 'net where they say they can rebuild thermostats. Does anyone have any experience with such a service?
If it helps, the range is a GE; model number IJ247G1N1, serial number ZM30078.
Oh, and one other question: has anyone ever seen a range without a built-in fuse panel? My GE does not have this and I was wondering if there may any risks/problems with just hooking this appliance up...
All advice and observations is always welcome and appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[turquoisedude]

Here's a photo of the thermostat - note the wire in the lower left; that's the one that got cut.
Such a shame - the thermostat has never, ever been used!

 

[panthera]

Here's the part(s)

Item #
252524 Price
$105.90 In Stock?
Yes
249620 Price
$21.55 In Stock?
Yes

So yup, you can fix it. If you haven't had the joy of working with these capillary tubes before, please take the time to read up on them first...they do not like to be bent, nicked, broken open, cut, stretched...
Basically, they are a very narrow tube filled with a fluid. The reservoir tip is located in the long, thicker end which is set in the oven cavity. The bellows is not visible on this picture, but it expands and contracts just like the mercury line does in a household thermometer. This rhythmic expansion and contraction maintains the temperature desired.
(Yes, that was overly simple, but hey.)
Some GE's have fuselinks. I am not familiar with this vintage so can't say for sure...but if it has an electric outlet for "110V", then there's a fuse in there somewhere. Or circuit breaker...never underestimate GE.
Hope this helps!

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=252524&PPStack=1

 

[panthera]

Yup, that's not repairable.

I suggest you practice drawing a rather thick copper wire through in the same pattern as that tube went to see how it goes, those capillary tubes are a pain to work with.
Yes, somebody killed it. At least the part is still available!

 

[turquoisedude]

Wahoo! Thanks for the info!

That is comforting to know that the part can still be obtained. I had visions of incinerating everything that I ever cooked in the oven while my turquoise-intolerant partner did the 'I told you so' dance around the kitchen...
I very much appreciate your help!

 

[panthera]

No problem,

You're the one who has to install it ))

Speaking of which, did you notice those little indentations on the new thermostat's shaft? Well, don't make my mistake of just bending the shaft to break it off at the right one.
Serious mistake.
Sigh.

 

[turquoisedude]

Dare I ask?

Did the bending of the thermostat shaft cause the thermostat to no longer work properly??
I had seen the indentations and I just assumed it was for the modern style control knobs. I figured I would have to somehow replace the shaft on the new thermostat with the original one.
Were the indentations intended as guides to saw off the part of the shaft not needed??
This is all good advice - thanks again! I have not done much serious restoration work and I am scared like hell!

 

[oxydolfan1]

"I had visions of incinerating everything that I ever cooked in the oven while my turquoise-intolerant partner did the 'I told you so' dance around the kitchen..."

Turquoise-intolerant? I think there are over-the-counter remedies for that......

Panthera is amazing with that stuff. Patience of a saint.

I can't even change a simple light switch without losing it...(

 

[panthera]

Paul,

It is really a step-by-step and not hard. Complex but not complicated.

First, make sure that you label the wires clearly. Digital photos are always a good idea.

Next, experiment as long with a thick wire as you need to until you can draw it into place in the oven cavity without difficulty. This is the hardest part of all.

The indentations on the shaft are break-off points to so that you can use the original knob. Unfortunately, the shaft is often not willing to snap like it should, so yes - I would hacksaw, carefully and with a strong vacuum running to pick up the metal filings.

Just post pics and ask questions as you go along. The replacement thermostat should have reasonably detailed instructions with it - and do be sure to check that the data I gave you are correct, I based them on your year of manufacture...GE is not always so precise there!

One change you will have to make is to replace the rings on the ends of the wires with the proper fittings. You can buy them at Home Depot and the wire crimper to go with them. I strongly suggest you experiment a bit first, you are not going to have that much extra wire to be able to make too many mistakes.

One last note. GE in those days bonded the neutral to the oven chassis. Not a problem, really - but it means that any mistake in wiring can lead to a potential safety problem at worst and blow up very expensive components at best. Anytime you are uncertain, stop and get help.

Can you use a VOM?

 

[turquoisedude]

"Turquoise-intolerant? I think there are over-the-counter remedies for that......" YEP, there sure are - gin is one I use a lot of!!!

Keven,
Again, thanks for all the suggestions. My instincts said to try snaking a wire through the cabinet assembly first and even use that to guide the the new thermostat wire into place - I am glad to see that I may have more of a clue about how to do this than I think!!
I have already started shopping for new compatible connectors (if you've seen the posts of what the washer/dryer timer looks like, you'll know why) and I am very much relieved to find that I am finding parts like terminal connectors even in the local hardware store in Stanstead.
I have taken serious note of the neutral "ground"; I don't think that is even permitted in the Canadian electrical codes. I figure I will be safe if I use a modern four-wire (black,red,white,green) hook-up cable for the range.
I need to dig out my VOM from storage, but I think I'll be using it quite a bit!
Thank you for your encouragement - I am feeling much more confident now.
Funny, but as a youngster, I was never intimidated by electrical stuff... I got older and lost my nerve I guess!