AEG L75470FL failed heater?

[newwave1]

Hey guys,

I've moved in with my parents for two months after moving back to lincoln. I've been back all of two days and cleaned my mothers machine to find it was unusually dirty for someone who uses powders and regular 60 degree cycles regularly. (Grey slim around door seal)

So I ran a cycle and kept pausing and putting my hand in the water to discover it is stone cold even at the very end.

It's out of guarantee but being elux it could be electronic but I'm not sure where to start before admitting defeat and calling out service force. Any advice?

Also does anyone know the current call out fee for elux group?

Darren

 

[electron1100]

Trouble

Blimey your only home two days an your breaking things

If you have a Multi meter and are ok using it, you could remove the wires from the heater (make a note of where they went) and on the X1 or X100 scale measure the terminals on the heater to see if it is open circuit, if it is open circuit then that is the problem

If it is not open circuit (this is where it can get buzzy) set the meter to AC volts anything above 240volts. now with the heater wires reconnected set the machine on a wash as usual, after about 5 minutes check to see if the mains voltage is reaching the heater just be very careful doing this for obvious reasons. if not the problem is else where.

If the heater has a built in thermistor this could be faulty, these change resistance with temperature so switch off the machine at the wall again you could disconnect the wires to it and measure across the terminals on X1 to see if there is any continuity.

That's marr two penneth worth

You could always take a picture of the rear of the tub where the heater is (I think)

Also a puzzling thought has occurred, machines with heaters generally wont advance through a program until the required temperature has been reached, hmm could be a shorted thermistor or if the machine uses them a stuck thermostat sensor

DSICLAIMER
I did not write this.
Signed
Bodgit & Leggit

 

[xanx22]

Aeg

Just a thought before you strip the machine, double check the warranty situation as all 3 AEG appliance I bought over the last 2-3 years came with 5 year warranties. Very doubt this machine is 5years old! I would personally try washing again but set time save to shortest cycle on cottons at 95'C and start the cycle but do not pause the cycle at all. You will notice from the smell and the warmth around machine if it gets upto temp. The reason I am saying this is the way AEG washes, the standard setting takes a very long time but is designed to give best results with highest efficiency of resources and so actually involves a lot of soaking at cold temperatures, but when set on time reduce it acts more like a traditional washing cycle agitating whilst heating, I just wonder if frequently pausing and restarting the machine you missed the heating up, it does state in the manual the actual water temp may not be same as selected temperature I.e. Maybe reduced temperature. Just as it will reduce cycle length if it senses a load less than full it may reduce temperature also.

Grey slime is usually a sign of too little detergent being used also.

Good luck as these are usually excellent machines, but it takes a bit to understand the AEG way of washing as it does differ from traditional and the cycle times can put buyers off if they don't understand how you have 3 time settings for every cycle and the cycle adjusts accordingly to the time setting.

Fingers crossed it is covered by warranty for you

Xanx

 

[henene4]

Well...

We own a verry simmilar machine (L71670FL, so, 1600rpm, small drum) and an empty drum is sensed within 5 minutes, but it takes 10+ min to heat.
You can enter the test cycle by several ways. But on the picture cottons + prewash is selected, and the prewash dosen't heat on small loafs, AFAIK, but I could be wrong.
First, read out the error storage. Therefore, turn the washer off. Turn it on, select the synthetics cycle and press and hold Start and the button left to it till EXX of FXX is displayed. If the reading is E00, we have a problem on the board side. Then, you would have to check for voltage to heater.
Anyway, the actual test cycle is avaible by turning the machine off, back on and than press and hold Start and the button on the left of it (no other selection). From Cottons (1st position, legf top corner) ones arround, the test are:
1: Display/LED test
2: fill (prewash, I think)
3: fill (main)
4: fill (softner)
5: fill (additive if avaible)
6: read fill level (as well as in any test before, the display reads the level in mm)
7: heating (10 min of to max 88°, display shows temp in °C, obviously, this test will help a lot)
8: tumbling and reversing (50rpm right, 250rpm left, display readout times 10 is drum speed)
9: drain&spin at max speed (same readout as 8, keep in mind, there is no out off balance control)
10: empty (I suppose for washer dryers drying system)
11: last 10 error codes (continue with start button)
Rest (i think 12-16?) is empty (display test)
So, try these and give US the results. I actually have the service manual here on my phone, I think. (Should I send it to you via Email if I find it?)
Things you want to look for in the test cycle are: no heating, error codes, wrong temps (fresh tap water at 60° for example).
Hope this helps.

 

[ronhic]

Similarly

Our Electrolux dishwasher recently stopped heating.

 

Turned out to be cracked solder on one of the parts of the control board. In our particular model (DX302), a known fault and someone had posted 'how to' instructions to save calling a service.

 

A small investment of $10 on a very cheap soldering iron and a some solder had ours and 2 others owned by friends all heating the water again.

 

[washer111]

@ronhic

Wasn't that the design fault that resulted in many units going up in smoke?

Ours never did in the 2.5years of ownership, but I worry about the poor folk that bought the house...

 

I would suggest not opening the door while running a test cycle. One time, when running the Miele, I decided to add some clothes fairly early in the cycle. I was running a "Dark Garments" 40º cycle. 

It never heated up beyond Cold, but every cycle after at 40º it has. 

So - messing around with the machine might upset the logic, so it "falls back" on something else if it cannot determine what on earth is going on. 

 

Like Henene said, running the shortest boil-wash cycle, don't open and see what happens. After that, you can get a multimeter or call a service tech to diagnose the problem. 

 

[newwave1]

I ran it uninterrupted on a super quick 95 and it drained with ten minutes because it thinks it's on the cold cycle!

They haven't replied. They have until this afternoon before I follow up.

I think it's pretty poor considering my best friend had a beko that washed for a family of 4 and did cotton 40 with 1400rpm at lease twice a day without fault. My parents machine only washes for them and me when I come to stay.

Darren

 

[henene4]

So, did you test anything?

If so, would like to hear how you concluded your theory, because, still, the picture in post #1 picture #1 shows it set to Cottons + Prewash and, to be fair, parents/grandparents don't always say the truth as they pretend (living in a 3 generation house with shared laundry, I recognize if my T-Shirts got "accedently" washed at 30°; one of the reasons I now settle towards brights).
But I'm also interrested in how this fault effects the output of the PCB.
Sadly, the service manual is no longer on my phone. Sorry about that.

 

[hotpointwma64]

probably the heater but check these....

sounds like the heater if everything else is working. take the heater out and just check if its covered in limescale, if not check if its been hit by anything (i.e. a coin) and see if theres any bits chipped in it.

If either of these are the case replace the heater because its 99% going to be the case.

 

[newwave1]

Henene4: I "concluded my theory" by running several different cycles and sitting there while it operated! Also my mother said that stains weren't coming out and it smelled. She washes at 60 2 out of 3 loads with bio powder!

And if there twitter representative has done what they say they will they will be getting back to me shortly on the matter.

Darren

 

[dascot]

Probably the heater?

It's not likely to solely be the heater, as otherwise the machine would keep running and running, or flashing up an error code, when it is not reaching 95/60 or, well, any temperature. There is more likely some error in a sensor or the control board. Granted, the heater could be fubar as well, but these symptoms do not lean toward it being solely the heater that has failed.

 

[newwave1]

This was my thinking too. They're coming to fix it for free now on the premise it is the heater but we'll see!

Darren

 

[xanx22]

Am glad you managed to get an AEG engineer come and look at it, was it under warranty after all? Or is it a good will gesture? Fingers crossed they sort it for you. It is curious that no error showed up on display, it just let the cycles continue but with no heat. Quiz the engineer as to why, we will be curious to learn why!

Xanx

 

[newwave1]

I'm not convinced it's the heater I think it's something relaying to the pcb as it just thinks cold has been selected and does that cycle

I will quiz him don't worry about that! Lol

Darren

 

[newwave1]

Ten minutes and it was repaired for free! Below is the scaled up heater!

Darren

 

[newwave1]

And now washing away happily!

 

[mrwash]

Why is it so scaled? This could be a heater from the Calgon commercial.

 

[logixx]

I was gonna say: someone needs Calgon (or more detergent). So, it didn't heat because it was covered in lime scale or did the built-up actually damage the heater?

 

[matthewjonperry]

Hi

Why not apply a water softener on the incoming water supply pipe?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151235643901