An Unusual Find...Vintage Kenmore Range Hood

[combo52]

Interesting Development

These Range Hood s were available in a SS finish, but unless someone bought a SS one and painted it what you are seeing is not SS [ if if was a SS hood that was painted the outside finish would have a grained appearance ] That said bare steel is shinny like SS and I have seen people strip things like old steel radiator covers polish and add light grain to them and then you must clear-coat them immediately to keep them from rusting. How successful this all depends on how good the bare steel looks when you get it all stripped, many times the bare steel looks blotchy and uneven in color and no amount of cleaning and adding grain makes it look great.

 

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<span style="font-size: medium;">Hmmm, then I guess it will remain painted. Seems like too much work for something that may not look right in the end. The section where the paint lifted is a small panel that covers the access to the filters. I'll just completely strip and repaint it.  Thanks John. </span>

 

[coldspot]

Ok the filter I had this same problem. Tru vaule had or might still have a make your own. You use the frame and cut it to fit. Also this site looks to do the same. Mine is a Miami-Carey darn hard to find parts.

http://www.rangehoodsfilter.com/

 

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A small update:

 

<span style="font-size: medium;">I finally went back to the range hood today (yes, yes, the Kenmore washer is waiting...I got all the parts in already, and the Toastmaster fan is waiting too). I started to dismantle it for cleaning. To my dismay, some of the painted parts are peeling/chipping when I scrub. Sooo, long story short, I'm just going to strip the parts and repaint them. What paint should I use?  It must be durable to withstand heat and cleaning. Rust-Oleum or perhaps something else? </span>

 

[hydralique]

If you really want the paint to last, then strip the hood and take it to an autobody shop and have them shoot it in a modern two part urethane finish. Rustoleum and other rattle-can paints are old lacquer type products that air dry rather then curing via a chemical reaction; they will not hold up like urethane.

 

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So I decided to finish the Kenmore hood first before I do the Slattery/Caloric switch. I've finally completely disassembled it and started to clean the layer upon layer of grease and grime. I'm using DEP oven cleaner, with some success. But it is taking multiple applications and as I mentioned earlier, it is lifting off the factory paint. I've decided to leave it on bare metal. It actually looks better than the paint anyway. So it won't rust, I want to apply something clear, but is also resistant to high heat and repeated cleanings. Any ideas?

 



 

Removing the motor

 



 

Under the hood. YUK!

 



 

After 3 applications of cleaner, STILL greasy.

 



 

The exterior after 3 cleanings and some Bar Keepers Friend

 

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The final layer of grease in this section...

 



 

One of the two fans:

 



 

Fan removed, motor looks surprisingly clean.

 



 

Twin fan shrouds.

 



 

I think that black grime is what's left of the foam gasket used to seal the duct to the body of the hood.

 

 

[retro-man]

No that black grime is from the unit being used a lot when cooking esp when a lot of steam and grease is being sucked in. I have to take mine apart every 1 to 2 years and clean the fans. Just remove the fans, just a little set screw needs to be back out a little, remove the fans, screw the set screw in all the way put them in the dishwasher and come out looking like new.
Jon

 

[danemodsandy]

Louie:

These Sears hoods in stainless had the painted finish underneath to cut down on glare and weird reflections from the hood light. Sears being Sears, it was probably cheaper to do it this way than it was to put a brushed finish on the underside.

It was something like a silver hammertone finish, without the "hammered" effect.

So, the painted area underneath is the way it came originally.

 

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No dishwasher yet Jon. Waiting to find a Kitchenaid KDS-58. Thanks for the tip. I used a brush and the fans came out fine.

 

 

 

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Hey thanks Sandy, may not even bother to clear coat the area. It's not perfect, but know one will know.

 

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So I checked the blower motor to see if oil would quiet it down. Oddly enough, when I tried it out, it ran quiet. Perhaps the noise (see reply # 29) was being caused by something else? Or maybe because there is no load, the bearings are running quieter? The vid is from before I oiled it.

 



 



 

 

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After some oiling running much quieter.

 

 

[combo52]

Range Hood Fan Motor

Hi Louis, I think with all the work you are putting in that RH I would be looking for a new fan motor, that one does not sound good, the oil is only muffling worn-out bearings, for a while.

Keep us posted, John L.

 

[danemodsandy]

I'll Second John!

Louie:

With all the work you're putting in, just masking that worn bearing sound is going to cause more grief later on.

With new motors or rebuilding of the old ones, the old girl will be ready for another 40 years. Or longer, because you'll take care of it.

 

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Funny, my dad said the same thing this morning. The motor is a goner. after a quick search online, not seeing much out there that is compatible so far. Thanks guys.

 

[danemodsandy]

Here's a Clue:

Those motors were made by Leece-Neville in Gainesville, GA. Leece-Neville is now a division of Prestolite. The Gainesville operation, according to Wikipedia, was shuttered and moved to Arcade, NY.

Here is a link to the Prestolite Leece-Neville page. You might try contacting them for a distributor, who in turn can be contacted for a retail source, or for info on who might be able to advise you on an equivalent motor. Don't try asking Prestolite to sell you a motor direct, because they probably won't.

Just FYI, those were quality motors. Too bad they were run un-oiled and dirty for so long.

http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_contact/contact_0.php

 

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Hey thanks Sandy, much obliged.

 

[danemodsandy]

Louie:

Hope something pans out here.

That is way too nice a hood to be scrapped. I'd love to find something like that myself.

 

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I was wondering, if it is the bearings, how difficult would it be to replace them?