And she wondered why it wouldn't dry/how to blow a hole in your halo: Part II
- Thread starter elginkid
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Thanks for posting Dan!
I'll look into oiling that wick and shaft tonight. I already oiled the blower, but the shaft will likely use a bit of lube. Due to being run with a clogged filter and no airflow for so long, the inside of this dryer was completely cooked!
The front felt seals are both NLA according to my local parts store. They have one in stock (the narrower of the two) for, get this, $81.00!!! Talk about a ripoff!
I have the part numbers for the front felt seals written down and I'll do some looking and price comparison later this evening after I get home from my mah jongg game.
My opinion of Whirlpool just dropped a few more points,
Dave
I'll look into oiling that wick and shaft tonight. I already oiled the blower, but the shaft will likely use a bit of lube. Due to being run with a clogged filter and no airflow for so long, the inside of this dryer was completely cooked!
The front felt seals are both NLA according to my local parts store. They have one in stock (the narrower of the two) for, get this, $81.00!!! Talk about a ripoff!
I have the part numbers for the front felt seals written down and I'll do some looking and price comparison later this evening after I get home from my mah jongg game.
My opinion of Whirlpool just dropped a few more points,
Dave
There's only 2 seals on the electric Halos. The front seal and blower seal. The blower felt seal is a very low wearing part and rarely needs replacement. The front seal is the one that needs attention. According to partstore.com, it's still available...at $5.95. It would be a good idea to grab a few at that price since they're officially NLA.
MT HOH FRONT SEALS
The front feldt is easy to make and you glue it in place with hi temp glue. The front seal does not help the function of the dryer in any performance way. Its to help prevent foreign objects from falling on the heater and causing a short or a fire. Usually after a period of the glue fails and the seal falls on the heater and burns and creates an awful smell this usually generated a service call. The HOH electric dryers heating element design was one of the worst ever for durability and safety if you have one keep all metal objects out of the dryer load. When I worked with MT we had many dryers that caught fire and were totally destroyed. The gas dryers were a little safer but only had one gas valve and when it would stick open nothing will stop the full flame from burning. The dryers would get to the end of the cycle the motor would shut off but the burner was still going full speed ahead and would quickly set the nice dry clothes on fire as the flame is right under the drum. I saw this happen more once if you were home and knew how to turn the gas off you could save the dryer and house, I even fixed one such machine because she caught it in time the paint on the front cabinet was all burned but she didn't care. This is way better designed dryers like WP always always had a dual gas valve in case one would stick, all gas dryers since the MT big load dryers came out around 1976 have had dual valves. I also had a 1963 pink Frigidare gas dryer do this once where the burner was under the top. the pink porcelain top turned glossy black when this happened but as it cooled it changed back to pink and was unharmed I just had to replace the main gas valve. If you have an older gas dryer with a constant burning pilot it may be of this design don't leave it running when you leave the area. No gas dryers with electric ignition ever had this problem no matter how old.
The front feldt is easy to make and you glue it in place with hi temp glue. The front seal does not help the function of the dryer in any performance way. Its to help prevent foreign objects from falling on the heater and causing a short or a fire. Usually after a period of the glue fails and the seal falls on the heater and burns and creates an awful smell this usually generated a service call. The HOH electric dryers heating element design was one of the worst ever for durability and safety if you have one keep all metal objects out of the dryer load. When I worked with MT we had many dryers that caught fire and were totally destroyed. The gas dryers were a little safer but only had one gas valve and when it would stick open nothing will stop the full flame from burning. The dryers would get to the end of the cycle the motor would shut off but the burner was still going full speed ahead and would quickly set the nice dry clothes on fire as the flame is right under the drum. I saw this happen more once if you were home and knew how to turn the gas off you could save the dryer and house, I even fixed one such machine because she caught it in time the paint on the front cabinet was all burned but she didn't care. This is way better designed dryers like WP always always had a dual gas valve in case one would stick, all gas dryers since the MT big load dryers came out around 1976 have had dual valves. I also had a 1963 pink Frigidare gas dryer do this once where the burner was under the top. the pink porcelain top turned glossy black when this happened but as it cooled it changed back to pink and was unharmed I just had to replace the main gas valve. If you have an older gas dryer with a constant burning pilot it may be of this design don't leave it running when you leave the area. No gas dryers with electric ignition ever had this problem no matter how old.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
I'll look into oiling that wick and shaft tonight.
One BIG thing to watch out for... When pulling the drum and spindle to clean/lube the shaft, first take a minute to remove the sensor ring brush or it will fly off into the night and go bye bye or break... This is the little carbon brush that rides on the ring right at the back of the drum. Take a screwdriver and remove the screw where the drum wire meets the plastic holder. Underneath that is a spring and the 'brush'. Also, make sure the o rings go back in like you found them on the shaft...
RCD
One BIG thing to watch out for... When pulling the drum and spindle to clean/lube the shaft, first take a minute to remove the sensor ring brush or it will fly off into the night and go bye bye or break... This is the little carbon brush that rides on the ring right at the back of the drum. Take a screwdriver and remove the screw where the drum wire meets the plastic holder. Underneath that is a spring and the 'brush'. Also, make sure the o rings go back in like you found them on the shaft...
RCD
Update.
The confusion over seals was because the guy at the service counter was looking at the diagram for a DG406. The 2 felt seals in the front must be for gas dryers only.
They are part numbers:
300860 - NLA
311410 - NLA (my parts store has 2 left for $80.00 each).
I'll get back to the dryer tonight,
Dave
The confusion over seals was because the guy at the service counter was looking at the diagram for a DG406. The 2 felt seals in the front must be for gas dryers only.
They are part numbers:
300860 - NLA
311410 - NLA (my parts store has 2 left for $80.00 each).
I'll get back to the dryer tonight,
Dave
Got the new seal for $6.00.
I forgot to get the adhesive, so I'll go back for it tomorrow. Where does the new felt seal go? The old one is completely gone and I can't tell where to put the new one. If anyone has any tips on correct installation procedures I would be grateful.
Thank you,
Dave
I forgot to get the adhesive, so I'll go back for it tomorrow. Where does the new felt seal go? The old one is completely gone and I can't tell where to put the new one. If anyone has any tips on correct installation procedures I would be grateful.
Thank you,
Dave
One more thing.
The fabric piece that is glued to the inside of the rear blower housing (through which the blower pulley protrudes through the housing) came off. I have it, I just need to know what to use to glue it back in place. Should I use the same high-temp adhesive I am going to go back and get for the front felt seal? It's part #3-12623 on the parts diagram Dan so kindly scanned and posted.
Thanks,
Dave
The fabric piece that is glued to the inside of the rear blower housing (through which the blower pulley protrudes through the housing) came off. I have it, I just need to know what to use to glue it back in place. Should I use the same high-temp adhesive I am going to go back and get for the front felt seal? It's part #3-12623 on the parts diagram Dan so kindly scanned and posted.
Thanks,
Dave
autowasherfreak
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2008
- Messages
- 3,637
Dan, do you have a parts list for 806 Washer?
