Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Drain solenoid, the pump is mounted on the back of the motor and in permanent drive all the time so a valve controls when the water is released to drain.

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Right lets sort out the mains cable which has perished and the insulation has stripped off and the neutral lead broken off altogether.

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

New lead feed in though the grommet in the back panel and clamped to the side panel as the original black rubber cable had been.

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Live and neutral connection temporary soldered on to the bullet connectors, I will remake both and cover with shrink sleeveing later.

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Fitted an old 13amp plug to the other end of the new lead and carried out some continuity testes.

Ho, live to earth fault and neutral to earth fault, no point plugging the old lady in she would just pop the RCD.

I will have to test each component in turn to find which one is to blame and rectify it.
It could be anything but I’m betting it’s the motor start capacitor gone short circuit.

More soon :-)

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Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Forgot a better photo of the wiring diagram.

Not seen the thermostat that is indicated on the drawing but might be around the front of the tub, odd as this model has no heater, maybe it’s to stop the warm mixed fill rinses getting too hot????

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Fingers Crossed

you get to the bottom of the problem. You can see where the mouse has nibbled the wiring diagram!! I've had a couple of appliances now where a mouse has made its home and they do like to nibble the insulation on the cables so it looks like you have been lucky as your cables seem intact. Hopefully it is simple to find and sort out :)
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Evening all

Spent some time checking out this earth fault, odd readings all over the place, very confusing indeed.

So, something is amiss but what?

I decided to check each electrical item individual one at a time disconnecting it completely from the wiring harness, everything checks out for continuity of the windings and nothing is going to earth, rechecked the reading on the plug and no earth fault, so I have disturbed something along the way, maybe Mr Mouse has nibbled a wire that I can’t see.

Whilst on my hands and knees probing with the meter I found those elusive thermostats in the wiring diagram on the right hand side of the tub hiding under the very large tub seam, the plate holding the assembly looks like it could house a heating element, but blanking rods are installed in those holes.

I’m still a little bewildered as to there function, the machine dose not have a heater, very intriguing, I wonder what the temperature setting is.

Also while crawling around on the floor I worked by hand the drain valve which was stuck, after a few movements back and forth the valve freed nicely, let’s hope she is water tight!!

Tomorrow I will test the machine with the PAT tester and if a satisfactory result is achieved I will then bite the bullet and show the old lady some mains, I’m not normally so careful dam right reckless normally and just plug in and see the bang but being such an old girl and with electrical parts that are nearly impossible to get replacements it’s better to take care and not damage anything unduly if I can help it.

Lee

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Thermostats

Hi lee my bendix lt although having a heater has thermostats near where the inlet water fills in. It's because if you select hot it will wash at the temp of incoming water. Select warm and if the hot water is too hot it squirts cold in to make a perfect warm so that's what those thermostats are for. Quite clever really. In reality because my hot water comes from a gas combi rather than old fashioned very hot tank. I select hot and let washer fill and water temp is perfect 40c by the time clothes have cooled it down.

I might need you up north to fettle mine as you're more adept with electric than me !!

Good luck

Richard
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Evening all

SHE RUNS

All the electrical parts have checked out, so we went for broke and plugged the old lady in.

Timer running and clicking and advancing.
Both water valves working.
Drain solenoid working.

Motor wouldn’t run to start with, I could hear the start windings groaning so a put a thick gardening glove on and pushed the drum pulley, and off she went. The centrifugal switch had stuck but works fine now.

I had put a peg in the water float to fool the machine into thinking it was full off water or the valves stay open all the time it’s washing.

Timer advanced to the first drain but no spin I thought the gear shift solenoid wasn’t working but then noticed the wiring diagram, it’s in circuit with the float switch so I released the peg, float dropped and the solenoid snapped in and we have spin.

Video of machine tumble draining and then into top speed spin, which I will measure the rpm’s some time.

So onto water testing!!

 
The Swap

Ok Lee I will swap my Hornby Night Mail Train Set
for it now I have seen it working, Saturday morning ok ;-)

I am cockahoop over this running, Brilliant matey just Brilliant!
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

NO swap NO deal Mr Banker

I’m relived Gary that she runs.

Advice sort, the drive unit, should it be full of some sort of oil?
I see a little pipe sticking up on the top is that for topping up the levels?
Would any one happen to have any information about the drive unit?

The unit got hot only after a few minuets of running I don’t want to cook anything.

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Probably safe to say .....

that you have the smartest Model D in the country!

Hi Lee.

Congrats on the new old purchase, even if it wasn't light on the wallet.
The machine looked superb in the ebay photos, but looks even grander in your shots, after its clean.

Lovely looking machine and so very pleased that it found a safe home with you. Have fun tinkering and re-energising it - be sure to continue linking those youtube videsos, as you progress.

Keep us updated and thanks for the photos.
Paul :-)
 
Fantastic Lee

great she runs, yes the gearbox should have oil in it, i can't tell you what oil, but i do remember reading here, someone saying compressor oil would work, the oil in mine had got a bit too thick and the machine spun constantly, the gearbox contains a multiplate clutch reqiring the smallest pressure for the plates to lock, the thick oil gave enough viscocity to lock the plates together. I can't divulge my solution here for fear of horror from those more knowledgable.

So when you do find out what oil, can I buy enough for yours and another 4 machines, thats just frightend me, i didn't realise how many I've got to work on.

Also i've never managed to get the valves working or worked out whats what with the thermostats, potentiometer selector, so look forward to your discoveries with that part of the machines operation.

Anyway, brilliant so far

Mathew
 
Bendix gearbox oil

We had a newer Bendix than this one in the early '60s. I think the service man used automatic transmission fluid (as you would in a car) when it was serviced. Unfortunately I have no idea if I'm right or not though ... perhaps my comment will strike a chord with somebody else and they'll tell us exactly what grade of oil/fluid is required.
 
Lee

Nice machine in great shape, you came out ahead at 511 pounds! Because the higher the price the better the machine is so restoring gets a big boost. If you bought it for 50 pounds you'd be scrapping parts for 2 or more years down the road, what's cheaper  2 years of your time or the 500 pounds? I bet the 500 pounds!

 

I was gonna suggest your start switch was stuck "on"- engaged, inside the motor giving you all those crazy grounds. But seems you have found the problem- sitting too long unused.

Thats not a bad problem to have!

As to the tranny oil Bendix trannys have a slipping clutch that uses oil that can be squeezed in and out between the layers of clutch plates inside the tranny. 

Ricky points to  HYD ISO 32 - this is traditional gear oil. The HYD is hydpoid which means the quality of the cut of the gears inside. ISO32 translates to gear oil weight of 75-80 SAE number. These oils unlike engine or transmission oil usually have no detergents added. Inside your tranny are copper parts, detergents will degrade those parts.

So look for a "hypoid gear oil" non-detergent - 75-85 SAE weight.

On our trannys Bendix provided another plug somewhere along the side of the tranny case. I see your plug under the solenoid in picture #22 above.

You opened that , drained out the old oil , left it open and started filling through the tube on the top you mentioned. Once you start to see oil dribble out of the side plug then you know you have the correct fill for the tranny.

Thicker oils may burp out a little the first few spins so try to get the 75 weight if you can. Just keep a rag under the tranny till she settles out after 3-4 spins.

 
 

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