Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

How’s it going chaps?

Richard you right with the cold valve, as I see it on the hot wash setting only the hot valve is energized, while on a warm wash the stats play a part, filling starts with hot only when the temperature triggers the contacts the cold valve becomes energized for mixed fill.

I think its mixed fill on rinsing but until she’s running properly I can’t say for definite.

Onto today’s tinkering.

Firstly some oil for the drive unit, I tried to remove the drain plug from the bottom but couldn’t shift it at all.

I then tried the smaller one to the left, again it would not shift and the square top part started twisting so no chance of removing that one.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

How much to put in then, I added about 200ml if I have over filled it will most likely spill out of the filling spout.

Result, the drive is noticeably quieter when running and has made no difference to speed. Which starts off fast and slows down with in a few seconds.

Hopefully the oil I have chosen will do no harm.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

On to the valves.

Photo of the assemble removed.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Electric coil unit, just pry up the brass strip on the top and lift off.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Hot valve disassembled what a pig the get apart, components laid out.

On the right we have the retaining nut.

Brass bell ended tub which houses the piston.

Centre of the photo is the piston.

To the left the housing with a rubber washer inside, which I can’t get at.

Last on the left the float switch tube rinsing spout.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

The moving parts are encrusted in lime scale.

Having a bath in scale remover, came out all shine and smooth.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

The piston back in the housing, before de-scaling it was white and stuck.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Hot valve rebuilt, give it a shack and you can here the piston moving up and down, remember it’s the water pressure pushing the piston down that seals the water flow off and the electric coil pulling the piston up to allow water flow.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Same treatment for the cold valve.

Photo of the unit lay out on the table notice it’s different, the piston is shorter and another bullet shaped piston inside the housing, this bullet piston was stuck and enclosed in muck which had hardened to a crust.

Photo after de-scaling

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Back in it’s rightful place, opps forgot to fit the electric coils on the top.

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

You can just see the piston of the cold valve in this photo.

Testing time, the hose was lashed up and power applied, one off the biggest failures I have ever had.

Hot valve just continues to dribble with or with out the coil energized.

Cold valve just a tiny dribble when energized.

To be total honest I thought I would have cracked it but maybe the valves have too much wear in them to function properly.

So do I make a plate and mount two single, modern valves in place of the originals

Or

Mount them at the bottom of the chasses and route pipes up to the top and leave the original valves in place till some vintage substitutes come along.

Answers on a post card please…..

 

[keymatic3203]

great going Lee

You've got to the point I did, and the small tube to the float switch seemed to continueto flow even when the power was cut, which I can't think is right. So now really interested to see if you can crack these valves. I too had got to the point of thinking installing modern valves was the way to go, however unsatisfactory that would be to the purist.

Well done

Mathew

 

[hotpoint95622]

bendix

Same symptoms, I've just been thinking, could it be an airlock, looking at the valves the water has to go up hill first on entering the unit that piston tube will be full of air with no way of excaping

 

[triumphdolomite]

Lee/Mathew
Really bizarre idea here, I'm wondering if the flow into the float chamber is some kind of leak off device from the valves in case you forget to turn the taps off it keeps the pressure down in the hoses as I notice on the instruction card there appears to be instructions for depressurising the water system and draining the machine. I guess this would only work if the drain solenoid is open when the spin finishes and the power is off to allow it to flow through to waste.
Crazy idea that doesn't help with your dilemma I know but it's the best I can come up with at the moment
Ian

 

[keymatic3203]

I had had a similar thought

that perhaps they ran all the time the taps were open to keep the float switch down at the water level and to flush the float tubes out, but that would mean the taps being turned off imeadiatly the cycle was over and that does not ring true with the instructions to put on 3rd rinse to depressurise the system. But this has happened on two machines and yours, surely with the knowledge of John Jetcone and our collective wit we can work them out.

Mathew

 

[hotpoint95622]

Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Well I’m still stumped; my thinking now is to mount a small steel box at the bottom on the outside of the back panel in which will be mounted two singel modern valves and connected to the water supply with normal blue and red hoses.

Route the necessary wiring up to the original valves bypassing the coils.

Connecting the new valves in the enclosure to the old ones using the original hoses so it looks like it’s plumbed in, in the original way and will look the same as you can see the original valves in the back panel connected to the original hoses, removing the pistons and rubber seal in the old valves, so in essence working but only as a water feature.

I will try to get the originals working but I hold little hope of having any success.

Another problem to overcome is I don’t want to be tied to one place for sighting the machine and don’t want holes drilled in the floor of the garage all over the place so I’m thinking of making a base with concrete paving slabs, one on the floor with a layer of house bricks on top and another slab on top of the bricks, steel bolt down though the lot from under the bottom slab to the top one, steel band across the top clamping the slabs and bricks together and then tying the machine down to the same bolts, I should think that would be heavy enough to hold it down and if I need too move it just unpack it all and then rebuild in new position.

More to come soon.

 

[jetcone]

Mike glad to

see you finally got that solenoid! Ours are all 120V here.  Wow what a stash of NOS parts! I'm envious as hell! You're RICH!!!!!

 

On the valves, over here the larger pistons are mounted to springs inside the tubes.  It looks like the "bullet" as you call it has replaced the rubber diaphragm our valves carry. But still I don't see any springs on your larger pistons. The coil itself can't overcome the water pressure alone.

I'll try to get up a diagram of what I'm nattering about so to make it clear.

The valve seat is rubber and mates to the plunger(we call it) piston, the way it works is water pressure is allowed all over the interior tube this brings the valve to line water pressure. loThen when the machine calls for water the solenoid energizes and is only just enough energy to lift the plunger up and let the rubber seat let water into the machine. When the solenoid De-energizes the spring forces the plunger back down onto the rubber seal. Something like this has to be going on in your valve. Somehow that "bullet" has replaced the rubber seat and spring in our valves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fido]

I wonder if it would be worthwhile getting the spare water valve solenoid coils from Mike? There could be a break down of the winding insulation on your old coils.

 

[sesteve]

Great work so far Lee - almost there. The rubber washer you referred to in 143 - could that have perished and be causing the valve to not seat properly so that it lets by when not energised? It could also be causing the piston to stick in the washer when energised which would lead to the poor flow you experienced? You get this problem sometimes on ball valves in cold water tanks when the rubber ages. Your valves would have been stuck in the closed position for some time and may have deformed the rubber especially when you consider how some of your pipes have gone. Not sure if you can disassemble the valves any further from your photos to get at it.

Hope you find a solution soon. would be good to get the original ones functioning but I think your alternative solution would be just as good.

 

[electron1100]

Fiddle About

LEE

I would swap for new type valves just so you can get both hot and cold supplies set up to see the machine going through its operations.

The originals definately fiddle about with them as already mentioned the rubber seal would be what I would go for first

Still this is a great thread and what ever happens still a great machine, hot an cold supply would be great to see those stats doing there job via either the original or new type valves

Gary