Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

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great going Lee

You've got to the point I did, and the small tube to the float switch seemed to continueto flow even when the power was cut, which I can't think is right. So now really interested to see if you can crack these valves. I too had got to the point of thinking installing modern valves was the way to go, however unsatisfactory that would be to the purist.

Well done

Mathew
 
bendix

Same symptoms, I've just been thinking, could it be an airlock, looking at the valves the water has to go up hill first on entering the unit that piston tube will be full of air with no way of excaping
 
Lee/Mathew
Really bizarre idea here, I'm wondering if the flow into the float chamber is some kind of leak off device from the valves in case you forget to turn the taps off it keeps the pressure down in the hoses as I notice on the instruction card there appears to be instructions for depressurising the water system and draining the machine. I guess this would only work if the drain solenoid is open when the spin finishes and the power is off to allow it to flow through to waste.
Crazy idea that doesn't help with your dilemma I know but it's the best I can come up with at the moment :-)
Ian
 
I had had a similar thought

that perhaps they ran all the time the taps were open to keep the float switch down at the water level and to flush the float tubes out, but that would mean the taps being turned off imeadiatly the cycle was over and that does not ring true with the instructions to put on 3rd rinse to depressurise the system. But this has happened on two machines and yours, surely with the knowledge of John Jetcone and our collective wit we can work them out.

Mathew
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Well I’m still stumped; my thinking now is to mount a small steel box at the bottom on the outside of the back panel in which will be mounted two singel modern valves and connected to the water supply with normal blue and red hoses.

Route the necessary wiring up to the original valves bypassing the coils.

Connecting the new valves in the enclosure to the old ones using the original hoses so it looks like it’s plumbed in, in the original way and will look the same as you can see the original valves in the back panel connected to the original hoses, removing the pistons and rubber seal in the old valves, so in essence working but only as a water feature.

I will try to get the originals working but I hold little hope of having any success.

Another problem to overcome is I don’t want to be tied to one place for sighting the machine and don’t want holes drilled in the floor of the garage all over the place so I’m thinking of making a base with concrete paving slabs, one on the floor with a layer of house bricks on top and another slab on top of the bricks, steel bolt down though the lot from under the bottom slab to the top one, steel band across the top clamping the slabs and bricks together and then tying the machine down to the same bolts, I should think that would be heavy enough to hold it down and if I need too move it just unpack it all and then rebuild in new position.

More to come soon.
 
Mike glad to

see you finally got that solenoid! Ours are all 120V here.  Wow what a stash of NOS parts! I'm envious as hell! You're RICH!!!!!

 

On the valves, over here the larger pistons are mounted to springs inside the tubes.  It looks like the "bullet" as you call it has replaced the rubber diaphragm our valves carry. But still I don't see any springs on your larger pistons. The coil itself can't overcome the water pressure alone.

I'll try to get up a diagram of what I'm nattering about so to make it clear.

The valve seat is rubber and mates to the plunger(we call it) piston, the way it works is water pressure is allowed all over the interior tube this brings the valve to line water pressure. loThen when the machine calls for water the solenoid energizes and is only just enough energy to lift the plunger up and let the rubber seat let water into the machine. When the solenoid De-energizes the spring forces the plunger back down onto the rubber seal. Something like this has to be going on in your valve. Somehow that "bullet" has replaced the rubber seat and spring in our valves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

jetcone-2014062317250405744_1.jpg
 
I wonder if it would be worthwhile getting the spare water valve solenoid coils from Mike? There could be a break down of the winding insulation on your old coils.
 
Great work so far Lee - almost there. The rubber washer you referred to in 143 - could that have perished and be causing the valve to not seat properly so that it lets by when not energised? It could also be causing the piston to stick in the washer when energised which would lead to the poor flow you experienced? You get this problem sometimes on ball valves in cold water tanks when the rubber ages. Your valves would have been stuck in the closed position for some time and may have deformed the rubber especially when you consider how some of your pipes have gone. Not sure if you can disassemble the valves any further from your photos to get at it.

Hope you find a solution soon. would be good to get the original ones functioning but I think your alternative solution would be just as good.
 
Fiddle About

LEE

I would swap for new type valves just so you can get both hot and cold supplies set up to see the machine going through its operations.

The originals definately fiddle about with them as already mentioned the rubber seal would be what I would go for first

Still this is a great thread and what ever happens still a great machine, hot an cold supply would be great to see those stats doing there job via either the original or new type valves

Gary
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Good evening gentlemen

Had another play with the valves, it seems to be too do with bars, no not the sort that adorn Gary’s windows ;-)

Pressure, if it’s very low and I mean very low the valves work properly with a good flow of water into the air break and a good stream into the float switch tube, though the hot one dose run on slightly due to the rubber washer and the piston not seating and the cold one dose drip due to the same problem, if the pressure rises by the slightest margin both stop working.

So from this I can only assume that when the machines where installed both hot and cold feeds came from the hot water cistern rather than being connected to mains pressure.

So in today’s modern water system which run at mains pressure there will be problems, I tried only opening the taps slightly but the pressure is still present after a few seconds. Am I going to install a water cistern no I don’t thinks so.

What’s to do then, back to my idea of mounting a small box with modern valves in and removing the pistons from the originals. All I need now is scour the parts pile and find two single valves, a black box and pipe fitting to reduce the original rubber supply pipes to fit the modern valves.

Photo of the new pipe work from the original valves to the air break, which had also perished.

hotpoint95622++6-27-2014-14-44-16.jpg
 
Another Odd Idea!

Lee
If you wanted to keep using the original valves would a feed valve for a urinal flush tank provide a low enough pressure constant flow? They always seem to use a very slow feed to fill the tank. It'd probably be a lot more work than rigging up a couple of modern valves though.
Ian
 
Norge?

Did anybody else see the Norge Double-Capacity front loader in the POD and think there was more than a passing similarity between it and the model-D here?

Does anybody know anything about the histories of each model? Was there some sort of licencing deal in one or other direction? Pure luck? Other ideas?
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

An up-date

The remote valves

I have now mounted the modern valves inside a plastic box which will be installed on the wall ready for hot and cold feeds.

hotpoint95622++7-2-2014-14-34-55.jpg
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

One of the original Bendix hoses attaches to the new valve.

I now need some good strong jubilee clips and remove the pistons from the original valves, I will wrap them up and store inside the machine.

hotpoint95622++7-2-2014-14-42-45.jpg
 
hoses

just a thought Lee

what about the internal hoses off a Hoover/Hotpoint soap draw inlet, cut down put over the inlets from the new valves and then the Bendix hose over that with silicon sealant and jubilee clips.

just-a-thought ;-)

gary
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Connectors at the machine end, no need to cut any wires the original bullet connectors fit these new ends perfectly.

hotpoint95622++7-5-2014-01-58-16.jpg
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

All working in the authentic way it was meant too, no leaks and no puddles.

hotpoint95622++7-5-2014-02-05-28.jpg
 
Bendix automatic Home Washer MODEL D (511)

Right I now need to sort the base and we can wash a load and see it spin.

hotpoint95622++7-5-2014-02-07-38.jpg
 
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