Best way to paint appliance ? Spray or roller?

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Whirling dervish

Mike, as if the floor won't be wet enough anyway lol, but I've certainly had my share of pipes flying out of the sink, and water spraying up the walls.

So welcome Shirley, great conditon your machine is in, I was thrilled to find one in the back of a repair shop, but my heart sank when I took the lid off, so I will be following your progress with great interest.

I am interested in seeing the results of the sponge roller method, as im well aware of the skill and preparations needed to do a acceptable, let alone factory finish spray finish, also like most of these things, its the preparation that determines 90% of the final result.

Keep us informed on progress and information on what paints and etch/primers you use, and whatever colours you choose, i'm sure it will look great and in keeping with your kitchen designs.

All the best

mathew
 
It seemed okay with the lightweight hose just a slight ajustment with the bend frame and it stayed in the sink. I found another couple of leaks 1 from the spinner and the top of the housing wash spin and empty tub selector on the water pump. the plastic case has seriously perished and fell to bits and all fell off now so thinking what to use to seal it? Because its a moving part I don't want to use the central heating repair sealant just incase it stops the selector moving. Cant seem to find another on line :(
 
No the flooring is actually cushion floor I wish I could have wallnut flooring, I cant have as I have a newfoundland and a labrador that like the water too much. And I'm not a fan of laminate as its too slippy for the dogs. Least the cushion flooring is easy cleaned and non-slip for the dogs. Unless someone actually touches the flooring they cant tell its not wood as it's over wooden floor boards and stuck in place so it looks and sounds like wood. And it was way much cheaper than wallnut flooring.

As for the lid its quite eaten with soap again but going to see a man to see what can be done, after steam cleaning the lid quite a lot of the bubbles came off which has ate into the alloy. I'm just gettig ready to take the base with casters off really need new castors but stugging to fine the J shaped ones so looks like modern ones will have to be used. the tub upsidedown getting ready to take the base off for sanding and etching.

shirley++5-14-2013-04-42-2.jpg
 
Exit pipe

the exit pipe is actually heavy at the end its ment to attach to modern front loader as the waste pipe. The wide rubber end is fairly heavy so it has stay put in the sink. I sealled up the exit hose from the spinner as its the only place That I had water come back onto the base of the spinner when it was up turned. I have now used the cetral heating leak sealer to plug it up after running the hairdrier on cool for half an hour to dry it out. Hopefully thats the leaks sealed up now. I ended up putting the sealer on the top of the wash spin and empty tub select on to pump to see if that will stop the leak there. That the only 2 leaks it seemed to have. The sort of hood that sat on top of the selector rod into motor fell into a million pieces before I could capture a picture( too busy getting spider webs washed away, wiped it and it fell to bits), so can only try the central heating sealant. Only downside of the central heating sealant is the smell. Makes the fishtank and bathroom stuff smell wonderfull. So cup of coffee before dismantelment commences. I cant wait to get it working so I can watch it washing.
 
Boat paints

have excellent self leveling and smooth out to an amazing degree when roller applied, available in many shades of white, and I'd imagine they'd be available there near the water, Azko Nobel, Interlux, Sikkens, Pettit being common brands. A bit spendy , being for marine use, however amazingly durable, much more so than car paint, good especially on the top surfaces. Good luck with your project!
 

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