Better Because it's Gas, Best Because it's a Caloric! Part One

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Originally posted 9/9/2014

 

 

Glass removed. As you can see, a lot of dirt and grease has accumulated through the years. Everything is metal, no plastic anywhere. What a shame we can't get this quality anymore.

 

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Originally posted 9/9/2014

 

 

If there is one thing I can't stand, it's a dead clock. Let's see what's wrong here.

 

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Originally posted 9/11/2014 by rp2813

 

 

 

 

"1)  Remove the rotor from the coil assembly.  You can probably push it out, or loosen the screws on either side of the coil to help free it.

 

2)  Place (balance) the rotor, pinion gear side up, on top of a light bulb (60 to 100W) and try to get the rotor as level as possible.

 

3)  Turn on the light and let the rotor cook for at least 30 minutes.  When time is up, shut off the lamp, leave rotor in place, and apply a drop or two of oil onto the pinion gear.  You should see it fill the small well around the gear's base, and then slowly (or sometimes quickly) be absorbed into the rotor case.  Repeat this until you've added 15 - 20 drops of oil.  If it stops drawing it in, heat the rotor up again and then pick up where you left off.

 

4)  Install the rotor back into the coil assembly, connect to power, being careful not to disturb the soldered connections on the coil.  Check gear for rotation.  Information on the rotor case should indicate the rotor runs at 3.6 RPM.  I sort of eyeball it and check against a clock with a sweep second hand.

 

If the rotor is noisy, you may want to heat it up once more and add maybe 5 or 10 more drops of oil.  Less is more.  Too much oil and it will bog down the mechanism inside the rotor and cause it to run too slow.  Noisy rotors that have been revived can sometimes quiet down once they're back in use for a while too. "

 

 

[this post was last edited: 6/21/2019-12:27]
 
Originally posted 9/11/2014

 

 

OK, I've added 20 drops of 3n1 (blue can). It sucked it up readily. I carefully turned the gear with a pair of needle nose pliers. It rotates! Before it was dead jammed. Now lets see when I apply current.
 
Originally posted 9/12/2014

 

 

When it rains it pours. The tab snapped off the winding wire of the clock/timer. The worst case scenario. I already found a replacement coil but it's quite pricey.
 
Originally posted 9/12/2014

 

 



 



Bill, thank you for your very kind offer, it actually looks like what you have may work. Let me try and repair the one that I have and see. If it doesn't pan out, I'll take you up on it. Thank you once again! XO!

 
Originally posted 9/13/2014 by wiskybill

 

 

Ralph...

This question is for you.

First, I will admit that I don't know all of the technical points
to a Telechron motor.

I was looking for info and found that while the S and H rotors are different,
the coils are dimensionally the same. The difference being that the H coils
have the leads on the body of the coil and the S coils have the leads on the
end of the coil.

Is there anything I'm missing? Do you think this may work for Louis if
he can't repair the coil he has?


 

 

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Originally posted 9/13/2014 by rp2813

 

 



Bill,  I'm pretty sure the coil and rotor assembly for an S type rotor isn't an exact match for an H type.  The S rotor is larger at the end that fits into the coil and smaller on the side with the pinion gear, so for sure the S type coil won't accommodate an H rotor and vice-versa.  Additionally, due to the size difference in the rotors, it may not be possible to do a complete change-out of an H type coil assembly for an S type. 



 



Other factors could be the pinion gear RPM and the size and number of cogs on the pinion gear itself.



 



The field coil alone could probably work, but since it's riveted in place on your coil assembly, it can't be removed.



 



FYI, the numbers stamped on the field coil wrapper indicate the number of windings X 1,000 (I think).  The fact that yours has 68K and Louie's has 60K wouldn't be an issue.  Louie's might get slightly warmer during operation, though.  This gives you a sense for just how thin the winding wires are.

 
Originally posted 9/20/2014

 

 

Thanks to Bill (wiskybill) who was kind enough to send me not one, but TWO rotors  and coils, the clock is now functioning perfectly.


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