Better Because it's Gas, Best Because it's a Caloric! Part One

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/12/2014

 

 



 



Bill, thank you for your very kind offer, it actually looks like what you have may work. Let me try and repair the one that I have and see. If it doesn't pan out, I'll take you up on it. Thank you once again! XO!

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/13/2014 by wiskybill

 

 

Ralph...

This question is for you.

First, I will admit that I don't know all of the technical points
to a Telechron motor.

I was looking for info and found that while the S and H rotors are different,
the coils are dimensionally the same. The difference being that the H coils
have the leads on the body of the coil and the S coils have the leads on the
end of the coil.

Is there anything I'm missing? Do you think this may work for Louis if
he can't repair the coil he has?

 

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/13/2014 by rp2813

 

 



Bill,  I'm pretty sure the coil and rotor assembly for an S type rotor isn't an exact match for an H type.  The S rotor is larger at the end that fits into the coil and smaller on the side with the pinion gear, so for sure the S type coil won't accommodate an H rotor and vice-versa.  Additionally, due to the size difference in the rotors, it may not be possible to do a complete change-out of an H type coil assembly for an S type. 



 



Other factors could be the pinion gear RPM and the size and number of cogs on the pinion gear itself.



 



The field coil alone could probably work, but since it's riveted in place on your coil assembly, it can't be removed.



 



FYI, the numbers stamped on the field coil wrapper indicate the number of windings X 1,000 (I think).  The fact that yours has 68K and Louie's has 60K wouldn't be an issue.  Louie's might get slightly warmer during operation, though.  This gives you a sense for just how thin the winding wires are.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/13/2014 by wiskybill

 

 

Plan B...

I knew I had another one hiding somewhere and I
finally found it.

It's your Louis, if you want it.

 

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/13/2014 by wiskybill

 

 

The rotor assembly is a H3 3.6RPM and it fits in
both coil frames. The coil is held with screws in the H frame.
The coil is marked 70.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/14/2014

 

 

Bill you're the BEST! Thank you!

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/14/2014 by wiskybill

 

 

Louis..

Glad I could help.

The stove just wouldn't be complete without a working clock!

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/15/2014

 

 

I know! I can't wait to see it working again! Thanks again Bill!

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/20/2014

 

 

Thanks to Bill (wiskybill) who was kind enough to send me not one, but TWO rotors  and coils, the clock is now functioning perfectly.


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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 9/21/2014

 

 

Running smooth and quiet.

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/18/2015

 

 

 

Grease was so thick I had to use a razor blade.


 

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The new vinyl pin-striping was a perfect match.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted on 3/18/2014

 

 

The "Automatic Cooking Control" module was replaced as I suspected. Looks like the replacement cost $19.50.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/19/2015

 

 

The red is an "Automatic Cooking Complete" indicator light, the white one is the "Oven Ready" light.  They both work. Eventually they will burn out. Do you replace the entire unit? Or can you replace only the bulb?

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/19/2015 by combo52

 

 

These have little neon bulbs in them and a power dropping resistor in them, they are very long lived only draw about 1/3 of a watt and you do replace the whole thing when it fails. I would use the originals if they work, these lights are probably the last things you need to worry about when it comes to keeping this range functioning.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/19/2015

 

 

Wow neon, who new? Thanks John.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/20/2015

 

 

I painted the lettering and added a stripe to the control panel. The stripe and the red, white and blue hexagons were featured on some Ultramatics' from 1962. I'm not sure if it was available for '63 or '64. Never seen a '64 with them. So I decided to add them. The stripe is easy enough. I did a test painting the white hexagon with a paint pen. I'm not too sure what was used, paint, contact paper or plastic. The red and white colors are easy to find, but the turquoise not so easy. It has to be a very pale hue, not unlike the color of the panel light knob.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted on 3/29/2014

 

 

As it turned out, the colored hexagons were available for 1964, so I'm good to go. After a lot of searching, I found a very close match to the  turquoise  on the panel light control knob.

 



 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/30/2015

 

 



 



Well I found out the model #, It's 54856"A".



 



<strong>May, 1964?</strong>



 



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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/30/2015

 

 

 

Glass light lens disassembly.

The grease and grime never ends...sigh.

 





 





 





 





 





 





 





 

 

After cleaning.

 





 





 

 

Control panel reassembled.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 3/31/2015

 

 

Rinsing the grease...

 



 

Looking spiffy!

 



 

Exhaust grill after degreasing, prior to painting.

 



 



 

After painting with correct semi-matte paint.

 



 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/5/2015

 

 

The Caloric crest before cleaning.

 

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And after.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted on 4/6/2015

 

 

 

Getting there.

 

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The meat probe outlet. So far, haven't seen any meat probes that could plug in here. Pardon the Easy-Off.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/7/2015

 

 

Ultra-ray broiler and oven.

 



 

The oven.

 



 



 

The Ultra-ray broiler.

 



 

Disassembly and servicing of rotisserie motor.

 



 



 



 



 

 

Robust construction. Clean inside, all gears and motor turn smoothly. Will lube the shaft for good measure.

 



 

 

Reinstalled.

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/8/2015

 

 

Some cleaning, a few drops of oil and it works just fine! Ignore the first 16 seconds. Used a flat screw driver instead of a phillips. (I need a good nights sleep).

 

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/8/2015

 

 

I had to remove the Ultra-Ray broiler. The mounting bracket (top center) for the pilot light got bent during transit from Beltsville. So I had to straighten it out.

 





 

<strong>The fine mesh of the Ultra-Ray is <span style="text-decoration: underline;">extremely</span> fragile. Just a light touch from my finger and it started to crumble (lower right). I hope this doesn't effect it's performance.</strong>

 

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Zinc oven floor reinstalled after cleaning.

 



 

 

 

The Ultra-ray is all clean.

 

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Rotisserie rack.

 

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Mystery plate in Ultra-ray oven. Perhaps for heater option?

 

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Conventional broiler all done.

 

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Oven done.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/9/2015 by toploader55

 

 

Old Restaurant Trick for Oven Racks...




Place the Racks in a Large Trash Bag being careful not to poke any holes in the bag.

 

Then pour in 1 Cup of Ammonia and seal the bag up tightly.

 

Leave over night.  The next day remove the racks and the carbon and grease flakes off. Guaranteed.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/9/2015

 

 

What a great idea Eddie! I will definitely try that when they get dirty again.

 

[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 4/11/2015

 

 

Because the gas shut off valve is unreachable once the stove is in place,  I decided to add a shut off valve inside the stove. If anything were ever go south, the valve would be readily reachable.

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 11/11/2015

 

 

The wiring in the rear developed a short, until I realized I was reading the electrical schismatic backwards. What a rats nest!

 

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[Ultramatic]

Originally posted 12/2/2015

 

 

The fifth burner's pilot light does not work. My dad says it's just clogged. No gas smell. The oven, has a pilot light, but the burner won't catch on. When the oven is switched on, the pilot light increases in size, and a rod starts to glow, but that's it.  The oven won't light.