Better Because it's Gas, Best Because it's a Caloric! Part One

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Originally posted 12/3/2015

 

 

The fifth burner is operational again. Turned out , the set screw was turn all the way "off". I suppose the prior owners wanted to save gas and turned it off. In addition, the burner was clogged.

 

 
 
Originally posted 12/3/2015 by toploader55

 

 

Hi Louis.

 

The Safety Pilot Assembly is called a Thermo Couple.

 

This looks familiar as it happens in the restaurant on Fryers, Ovens when the Thermo Couple goes bad.

 

There should be easy to replace.
 
Originally posted 12/3/2015

 

 

It is indeed the thermocouple. I will switch it out on Saturday.

 

<strong>A quick observation. Now that all 5 pilot lights are lit, the stove's top sure is warm, hell, hot in some areas.</strong>

 

<strong><strong>Oh yeah, one more thing, did I mention the Ultra-Ray broiler works beautifully?
smiley-laughing.gif
</strong></strong>
 
Originally posted 12/6/2015 by combo52

 

 



Hi Everyone, I am thrilled to see you getting this range up and working, a few points



 



This range DOES NOT HAVE a thermocouple, almost no home gas ranges used TCs after about 1961. The part shown in reply #115 is not used any where on this [ or any home gas range after about 1961 ] Range.



 



Hans is correct, you need a complete oven safety valve. [ note these oven safety valves contain mercury, dispose of the old one at a facility that recycles mercury ]



 



All the top burner pilots should be turned down as low as possible to not only save gas but to also reduce the extensive damage that the combustion byproducts from these small inefficient burning flames will do to the underside of the range top and everything else under the cook-top. I would differently consider keeping the center pilot turned off like our former customer did.



 



Can't wait to see some of the great cooking that this range is going to do, the Ultra-Ray broiler rotisserie would be my favorite feature for sure.



 



John L.

 
Originally posted 12/6/2015

 

 

Thanks for the info John. Well this seems it's going to be a costly repair. But it's the price for being MCM. All the pilots are quite tiny. I figure my carbon footprint is far smaller than most, so they're gonna stay lit. Besides, what's the purpose of being modern if you have to light a burner with a match? 
smiley-tongue-out.gif
 
Originally posted 12/23/2015 by combo52

 

 

Burner with a brain operation

 

On these burners you set the flame size then turn the dial back to the temperature you want to maintain. The flame should go on and off completely as the temperature is reached. There is a standby pilot next to the burner that comes on when you start the burner that will relight the burner when it comes on again.

Other than having to clean out the standby pilot orifice I have almost never seen one of the gas burner with a brain doesn't work beautifully.

 

 
 
Originally posted 1/4/2016 by combo52

 

 



<strong>Coloric Range--Proper Oven Operation</strong>



 



Hi Louie, and a BIG Happy New Year to You, it is neat to see you getting this cool old range restored after it sat in my shop all those years.



 



The oven pilot looks fine when it comes on and it is heating the oven safety valves properly, so as discussed before you very likely need a need oven safety valve [ the one other possibly is the oven thromostat is not opening the main gas flow to the oven safety valve when you first turn the oven on, this can be tested by loosening the big gas line coming into the SV and then briefly turn on the oven thromostat and you should have a strong flow of gas, blow out the oven pilot while doing this ].



 



The other problem you seem to be having is the pre-heat pilot flame should stay on at any thermostat setting until the oven temperature is up to that setting and then it turns off the larger pilet pre-heat gas flow then the red hot SV bulb cools and shuts off the main gas burner till more heat is needed. So you have a thromostat problem as well, it may not be serious but at the least it needs to be dissembled and cleaned or rebuilt.

 
Originally posted 4/11/2016

 

 



Another piece for the puzzle. I found a lot of panel knobs for the Caloric. I only needed the clock knob, but what the hell, they came as a set. Never can have too many knobs I say.



 



<strong> <script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></strong>



 

 
Originally posted 4/11/2016

 

 

Safety Valve

 



I heard back from my local source. They do have a rebuilt safety valve, $160 with my old one, $200 with out, OUCH.



 



I had no idea you could rebuild safety valves.

 
Originally posted 4/11/2016 by combo52

 

 

Oven safety valves

 

Can be rebuilt but as you found out it's a little bit expensive and not a do-it-yourself project to rebuild it at least.

 

<strong>Glad you're staying with this project can't wait to hear how you like it once it's fully functional yay.

</strong>
 
Originally posted 4/11/2016 by combo52

 

 

Oven safety valve,

 

Is the part that the big gas line connects to before the gas goes into the cast iron burner, it also has a tiny flexible SS line that goes up to the pilot assembly and is heated by the enlarged pilot flame that occurs when you turn the oven on to open and allow gas to flow to the main burner.
 
Originally posted 4/18/2016

 

 

The safety valve, piece of cake to remove. I am getting the rebuilt one today.

 



 

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Originally posted 4/18/2016

 

 

I decided to buy a brand new safety valve instead of a rebuilt one. Literature that came with it read "1971".

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Originally posted 4/18/2016

 

 

But there is a problem (isn't there always?), The sensor bulb is shorter on the new valve than on the old one. They both have a "stop" that only lets them go a certain amount into the pilot light assembly.

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Originally posted 4/18/2016

 

 

My solution is to drill out the hole in the pilot light assembly so the new sensor bulb "stop" could go through. There is a screw to tighten the bulb to the assembly.

 

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