Blackstone 193 Dryer Returns Home! 220 to 110 Conversion????

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

blackstone

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
836
Location
Springfield, Massachusetts
Blackstone 193 electric dryer has returned home after 17 years! I sold it (still in its original box) when cleaning out our family business in 2006.

I would like to convert the dryer to run on 110, since I don't have 220 in my house. I would just use the dryer as a source of heat in the cellar.

Any advice before I do anything stupid? Is it as simple as moving one wire on the block? I have never attempted anything like this.

Fred

blackstone-2023111809524400160_1.jpg

blackstone-2023111809524400160_2.jpg

blackstone-2023111809524400160_3.jpg

blackstone-2023111809524400160_4.jpg

blackstone-2023111809524400160_5.jpg
 
Connecting an older electric dryer to 120 V

Hi Fred, this is easy to do, you need a 12 gauge three wire 120 V cord to do this if the instructions are still with the dryer it’ll show how to do this. There may also be a diagram on the machine that shows how to do this, as many of these dryers were only hooked to 120 V back in the day.

Otherwise it’s simple. The only thing you have to do is move one of the outer white wires to the center post position, connect the hot black wire from the new cord to the outer position that still has the white wire on it the neutral wire from the cord will go to the center position, and then the ground wire from the cord gets connected to the frame of the dryer Somewhere near the terminal block.

If there’s a metal strap between the center post now and the cabinet you remove that from the picture you posted I can’t see that there is such a grounding strap.

Then you’ll be able to run the dryer you’ll even be able to dry some clothing, but it will take three times as long as it did originally when it would’ve been connected to 240 V .

Was this the dryer that was sold to John Charles, I still have that brand new gas dryer that I got from you.
 
I figured that it be easy, but not sure. For whatever reason, I do not have the manual for this 193 dryer. That’s why I had to take a picture of the wiring diagram. No, there is no grounding strap.

I kind of assumed that not many people had 220 back in the 1950s. Maybe my father had opportunity to do this conversion, but I never did.

Yes, this is one of the two Blackstones that I sold. I forget who got which one, since they both got taken on the same (exciting) day. I was kind of sorry to see them go, but I had to clean out the store. Now that I have a much smaller, more manageable collection of stuff, I have space for the dryer.

Thanks for the advice.
 
I remember when you were selling off the business. You sent long lists to me as John did not have a computer then. He told me what to buy and I paid you on your paypal account. We bought parts and a couple of complete machines. He brought all of the loot home from the wash in.
 
Hello John.

Yes, this is the one I purchased from Jon Charles. It was sold as a set with the magnificent Imperialist washer. Tried the dryer once and something shorted out. I gave it back to the Blackstone guy, as an early Christmas gift.

Don't mention it, Fred.
 
I’m Stumped

I can’t get any power to the heating element. I tried all the simple stuff (bypassing the control thermostat; the safety thermostat; motor switch; timer). Also combinations of these. No voltage at the element.

blackstone-2023112112513204260_1.jpg
 
Working

The dryer is working. I only had to lubricate the bearing inside the blower; otherwise the motor would not turn it.

The receipt is not for this exact dryer; but it shows the same model with a similar serial number (which was sold to a customer a few days after the date on the receipt.) Manufactured in 1958. Price as shown.

blackstone-2023112809311808299_1.jpg

blackstone-2023112809311808299_2.jpg
 
1958 Blackstone dryer

That’s neat Fred that the dryer came home to you and that you have it running. Have you tried drying any clothing in it?

Also neat that you saved the invoice when your dad mom‘s business bought it, if you actually paid 168 for that and sold it for 269 that’s a pretty good markup and those days you often didn’t make $40 on a dryer, it’s also pretty expensive for a dryer $269 more than even a lady Kenmore.

It’s also neat that you’ve saved much of the paperwork. I have saved every customer invoice since we went in business 43 years ago have them boxed up by the years over 100,000 I’m sure it’s need to look back and see what we did and what we charge for it when we started the business we only charged $15 for a service call today it’s 92.

It’s also a little bit sad when we see so many customer names where they have died. Many of our original customers are long gone.

John.
 
I have not tried to dry anything. Actually I am very surprised at how little heat comes from the dryer when running on 110. Perhaps it takes more time to heat up that big empty drum.

I need to look up the selling price for the dryer in that invoice. Maybe it was less than $269. There were a lot more invoices for the 350 washers than for the matching dryer. More of a luxury, I guess.

I showed my dentist a receipt from the 1950s with a charge of $5 for a filling. I asked if there were a price match guarantee. No luck.
 
"I kind of assumed that not many people had 220 back in the 1950s."

So many early tumble dryers from 1940's through 1960's it seems were offered as using either 120v or 240v service. Am not talking about compact small dryers either, but full sized units.

Given rather low extraction of washers then don't want to think about how much energy was used to dry a sopping wet load of wash at 120v.

Even with 1400 to 1600 watts of heating power it still would have been a struggle.
 
Detroit Edison would give away a 220 outlet/circuit if you bought an electric dryer from them in the late 50s/early 60s. Was nice solid base demand for them (people use dryers throughout the year) and was probably a good deal for them.

 
120/240 Service

I certainly don't think it was rare in the 1950's; definitely not for new construction, as I believe the code required it for any service over 40 amps.

My house was built in 1953, and originally had a 100 amp fused service - a Wadsworth panel with pullouts for main lights, and range. There were six plug fuses below. There were three separate fuse boxes added to the side for the water heater (1958), disposer and dishwasher (1958), and dryer (1963). The 30 amp dryer circuit was tapped off the main lugs, ahead of the fuses. The other two boxes were connected to lugs below the six fuses, controlled by the main lights pullout. These were all replaced in 1973 with an FPE 200 amp breaker panel (since replaced by Eaton CH equipment).

Even in the mid 1930's high grade homes had 120/240 service. My dad's uncle and aunt built a new home in 1936. Not a palatial mansion, but a decent medium size house - around 2500 sq. ft., not including the full basement. I remember two panels in the basement. One was a Westinghouse (100 amps) that had probably 15 to 20 120 volt circuits, each had a fuse with a switch next to it. Next to that panel was one for 240 volt circuits, which included a main for the other panel, range, water heater, and another had been added for a large window air conditioner sometime around 1950.
This panel had no visible fuses, but they were behind hinged doors that had a handle on the front. I'm nearly certain it was rated at 200 amps, which I'm sure was considered large for that time. Unfortunately it was all replaced with circuit breakers in the late 1960's.

Since dryers were relatively new at that time, I'm sure even a lot of homes that had 120/240 service didn't have a circuit running to the laundry room. If the incoming service was in the basement close to the laundry room, such a circuit could usually be run without too much trouble or expense.
 
Reply #17

Most homes here in the US do have both 120 and 240 volts. We mostly use 120 volts for things that don’t need much power, 240 volts is reserved for electric dryers, electric stoves, electric water heaters, HVAC systems, certain types of shop equipment etc.

The 240 we use is split phase 240, basically 2 120v 15 amp circuits combined into a single outlet. The only thing that runs on 240 volts in an electric dryer is the heating element, nothing else runs on 240 since it’s spit phase 240v.

Electric dryers in the US basically are backwards compatible from 240 volts to 120 volts, just have to move the neutral wires on the terminal block to one side, and the live or hot wire to the other. It will happily operate on 120v, though will only have 1/4 to 1/3 the heat output. Certainly will make the heating element last a long, long time but will put more wear and tear on the rollers, bearings, etc since it’s running for 2 to 3 hours compared to just 30 to 45 to 60 minutes.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top