Much Will Depened Upon What You Are Trying To Do
If speaking of bed and kitchen linens that have residual stains, are dingy and or otherwise are in need of brightening, then even a low temp "boil wash" with oxygen bleach (sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate) should get you where you want to go.
OTHO, if for some reason the items in question cannot withstand high wash temps and or long periods of it, then careful use of chlorine bleach may be in order.
Miele strongly advises against the use of LCB in their older washers, however Miele customer support and techs have told me on several occasions that "once and a while use" won't cause that much damage. Contrary to popular belief it isn't just the stainless steel drums one has to worry about, but the various sensors located between the drums. One assumes by this Miele means some are made of metals and or other materials that could be damaged by prolonged/repeated contact with chlorine bleach.
Being as all this may, here are your options:
Oxygen Bleach.
Persil contains sodium percarbonate already, but if the items are badly stained or otherwise as above, you don't want more detergent, but some surfactants are required for better results.
Use about 1/2 to 1/4 of your usual dosage of Persil. Add 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup of pure oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate is best, you can find it in health food stores sold under "Ecover" brand, otherwise order from such places as Chemistry Store.com).
Set the washer for longest cycle at hottest water temp, and allow the washer to do it's thing. Am assuming your W1930 is set to cold fill and on 220v power. The length of time for water heating, plus the long cycle are plenty enough time for the oxygen bleach to do it's work.
For the final rinse add about 1/4 of white vinegar to remove any remaining traces of oxidising agent (oxygen bleach).
Chlorine Bleach:
Instead of Persil, use any American "HE" rated detergent in the wash, as oxygen bleach and chlorine bleach will cancel each other out. Set the washer to "Hot" (about 120F or 140F), wash cycle and let it do it's thing.
As the machine fills for the first rinse, add the recommended "HE" dosage of chlorine bleach down the dispenser. Personally I'd go with the versions of Clorox or whatever designed for "HE" washers as they are thicker and less likely to splash about, but you can also use whatever you've got.
Unlike oxygen bleach, chlorine bleach only requires about five minutes to do it's work. Any stains or soils not removed within that time aren't going to shift, and longer contact can only lead to textile damage. Also for purposes of a Miele washer, you don't want the stuff in the drums that long. If your washer is like my W1070, the first rinse is rather long (about three to five minutes), so again this is plenty of time.
Let the washer complete the final three rinses, then reset for another series of rinses, adding about 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the final rinse to act as a "antichlor". You want to make sure *all* chlorine bleach is removed from the textiles. If you can still smell LCB on fabrics as they come from the washer, repeat the rinsing again.
There is a saying in commercial laundry circles: "wash cycle is for washing, and a bleach cycle is for bleaching". That is to say commercial laundries rarely add chlorine bleach to the main wash bath. In the case of your Miele since you cannot control when the wash cycle ends, it could be difficult to use LCB in the main wash.
As stated above you neither want nor need to have chlorine bleach in contact for the entire wash cycle. Both long and short choices on these units are vastly longer than required time wise, and as I've already said, after about five minutes nothing really is being done but degrading the fabric.
Now there are other ways of using LCB in a front loader, but not sure if your washer takes "hot" or "warm" fill, and one has to allow for a period of time for the detergent and bleach to mix with water and textiles. The reason for using a hot wash before the bleach "rinse" is that the carry over heat from the first cycle will be enough to speed up the bleaching action. Even with cold water coming in for the rinse, the heat from drum/textiles means you'll probably end up with warm to slighly hot water (depending upon how high you set the wash temperature).
