Changing a Maytag tub bearing and seal: A how to...

[redcarpetdrew]

I will lightly drip some turbine oil into the bearing to help it spin until the self lubricating functin kicks in. Self lubing? What? How does THAT work? The metal of the bearing is impregnated with oil and as the bearing heats up while it turns, the bearing will 'sweat' a little oil. This is common for things like drum bearings, HOH blower bearings, etc...

 

[redcarpetdrew]

This is the boot seal. Not much to it. You can see the end that seats down on that lip of the tub and the other side has a carbon ring that forms the seal against the bottom of the stem.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Mounting the boot isn't too bad. Again, I use a little windex to lube the inner lip of the seal so it will slide on easier. Push down gently but firmly until it seats down against the tub floor. Turning it back and forth as you push helps. REMEMBER, the carbon ring is fragile. Don't push down on the ring with too much force or you'll break it. The boot should sit evenly and centered around the shaft. the lower lip of the boot should be touching the tub bottom evenly all around like the bearing did earlier.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The mounting stems. A big difference...

You can see the old (right) and new (left). Gone is the clip and washer which compressed the shaft seal down. That has been replaced with a triple lip seal that is part of the stem. Ehh, it works but you can see how the newer LAT's have been leaking in larger percentages compares to the old kids...

No worries! I have a secret weapon!

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The secret weapon!

This is the original shaft seal. You can still get them for now. I will use this in conjunction with the new triple lipped stem for a fool proof seal. The only time you CAN'T use this is when you have one of those orbital transmissions with the white plastic shaft keepers. It comes with a modicum of grease inside it but I usually add a little. You can use Maytag's center seal grease, or in a pinch, the blue colored boat trailer wheel bearing grease. just add a little and push it on the shaft 'point' down the install the stem.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Screw the stem on. Tighten it by hand until you can't turn it then use the tool to tap it about 1/8-1/4 turn more. Install the set screw and tighten. You want it to bite into the 'meat' of the trans housing threads. You DON"T want it to go into that channel on the side of the trans housing. If it does, the tub will make a knock or click noise while in agitation as it torques back and forth. it will eventually also shear the set screw off and then do very unpleasant things... Trust me...

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Set the inner tub back in, being careful not to drag the hole across the threads for the tub nut. Try to make sure it's centered.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Reinstall that protector ring then the tub nut. Tighten the nut firmly. Next, you put the washer into a spin to check the tub centering. loosen the tub nut and adjust as needed to prevent the tub hitting the outer tub then tighten. NOW, you reinstall that small black agitator keeper ring if your washer had one. Reinstall the agitator. I have used the keeper ring WITH the agitators with the set screw if there is enought play that the agitator makes some noise. Another small trick...

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The tub cover: another hint/trick...

If you're working on the newer washers with the plastic tub cover, snapping it on is a piece of cake. The older ones can be a pill. One trick I use is to use the markings from the tub cover gasket before to help locate it when reassembling.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Works almost every time.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Mount the tub cover. Tap it down gently until the gasket hits the lip on the outer tub. It should be perfect. Put the band clamp on and tighten the two screws evenly while making sure you caught both the gasket AND the lip of the outer tub so they will sandwich together and seal. Remember to have the tub cover oriented correctly so the out of balance lever will hit the tab on the cover. Also, the band clamp should be positioned so it won't strike the cabinet as it spins. They should be in the corners. See next pic...

 

[redcarpetdrew]

An example of where they should sit...

In this picture, you can see how they are in the 'corners' to avoid contact with the cabinet.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

OK, kids... Almost there!

Reattach all your hoses (don't forget the water level hose in the back corner!). BEFORE YOU WET TEST IT, put the washer into a full spin cycle and dry spin it. You're now helping that carbon ring seat up against the bottom of the stem for that seal and break in the bearing.

OK, NOW you can run it and test for leaks. Check your hoses and the seal in the tub bottom for weaps or leaks. Also, check the tup cover gasket for leaks as you spin out a full tub of water so it will slosh against the cover. You should be good except for one more very important step...

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Add clothes, detergent and water! Start the washer and be rightfully proud of a job done well and by yourself! You've just hopefully added another lifetime of enjoyment and service to your best (and grateful) friend. Congratulations!

This bearing change should translate to just about any Maytag Dependable Care platform washer from the Amp forward. As you can see, it's not bad to do. And the only special tool you'll need is the tub nut wrench. But, as a proud owner of a happy Maytag washer, you should have had that already, right?

I hope this helps you all with doing the job or just better understanding the gizzards of a wonderful machine.

RCD

 

[volvoguy87]

Wonderful!

I need to do a teardown on my housemate's (Elginkid) A206 and I think I ought to consider replacing the bearing since it's pushing 40 years of service. Thanks for this wonderful guide.

Would you be up to posting a similar guide on how to open the transmission, replace the gasket and O ring, change the oil, and put it all back together? I have to do this as well once time allows, but I fear it will be very difficult. At least most of us who have old Maytags will likely have to do the job at some point.

Thanks again and g'nite,
Dave

 

[goatfarmer]

Great post, Andrew! I have a couple that leak through the center, looks like a fairly straightforward job to get 'em going again.

kennyGF

 

[toploader55]

Thank you

For sharing your knowledge.These are the expieriences that make this place special. Thank you Drew. Eddie

 

[gyrafoam]

Thank you! That is an excellent tutorial!

 

[yogitunes]

EXCELLENT.....thanks soo much for the detail instructions...Yes we need this in the archives for future reference...for now I'm gonna print it out...Thanks RCD...your one in a million...on this planet...lol

something like this seems a little scary at first to dig into, but this seems simple enough, with a little (I'm mean a hell of a lot) help from you....we bow to the MASTER...we owe you big guy!

 

[mickeyd]

And i was just gonna ask ya what cool finds you made this we

and instead you deliver a fabulous Maytag Encyclopedia entry which is even better than a rare find!!!! Thank you, Drew, for all the time and the care that went into this.

It is so enlightening for challenged mechanics like me.

And of course I love the shot of the open choppy water surrounded by a sea of Maytag metal. Wonderful.