Cheap detergents (like Sun) for bath towels?

[lordkenmore]

I've wondered off and on about using cheap detergents like Sun or even Xtra for hand & bath towels. Yes, I've heard such detergent aren't particularly great. But I hypothesize that one really doesn't need much cleaning power for bathroom towels. And someone cost conscious like me might argue: why use more detergent power than you really need, since more detergent power = higher cost?

 

But past this... I'm wondering if theoretically such detergents wouldn't potentially rinse out more easily than high end detergents, since, presumbably, the formulae used at the low end are likely to be very simple, with no "miracle" substance to give 2 years of scent retention or whatever.

 

I'm idly wondering if anyone here has any experience with cheap detergents and towels.

 

I could probably do my experiments--but it's one of those things I don't get around to doing. Plus, being forced to be frugal, I'd hate to spend even $2 on detergent for an experiment, only to have it fail, and have a mostly full jug of detergent I'll never use...

 

[askolover]

We used to buy CVS's store brand free and clear detergent that was made by Sun.  We never had any problems with it.  Everything always came out clean...even greasy spots.  They would run it on sale super cheap.  The only reason I stopped was due to dosing issues with our water softener....meaning Tony liked to overdose causing sudsing issues.  So we switched to Tide pods....no more issues.

 

[retro-man]

Have a hair salon and we use Arm and Hammer laundry detergent. Towels are really not dirty just used on hair and a wipe up around the sinks and stations. They come out clean and fresh. Use only 1 rinse in a top loader and no suds left remaining. So they rinse clean easily. I see no problem with using a "cheaper detergent" for your bath towels. We also do hot washes only on towels.

Jon

 

[paulg]

I used to do exactly that

When doing lightly dirty towels and such I too used to buy Sun and (preferably) Trend. I found no problems with either and actually was quite pleased.
I sorta stopped doing it because I simply cannot remember to go to another store to buy Sun. I cannot find Trend anymore which I really liked due to its very pleasant scent.

 

[sfh074]

Walmart .....

sells the big plastic 145 load tub of SUN powder for $9.97, in 2 different scents. We use it for most loads, but also use Tide occasionally. Have been using SUN for 10+ years now with both a top loader and front loader. Don't have to use additives and we like the smell and softness it leaves towels. If you haven't tried it, you may be pleasantly surprised. You definitely can't beat the price per loads cost it sells for!

 

[mrsalvo]

I did an experiment as well. Bought a bottle of regular All Small & Mighty (hate the smell) to compare with Tide W/ Bleach powder, to wash white bath & hand towels and wash cloths. I think Tide cleaned a little better, but not by much, and I could tell also when I washed some nasty kitchen towels and dish rags. The end result cleaning wasn't hugely noticeable, and the All did especially good when I let them soak for a while. It was acceptable to me for the cost difference. (I do think, and I cannot explain why, All Free & Clear seems to clean a little better than regular All.)

I used Fab powder and hot water for many months to wash white towels. I can still get the powder at a certain off brand grocery store. Very economical. But, oh, how it fades other fabrics!!!
I think powders fade out fabrics much faster than liquids, from my experience.

Last year I tried a $1.00 bottle of Oxydol from Wal-Mart and I was very pleasantly surprised at how well it cleaned, but again the fading issue.

I was wondering, does Sun or Xtra come in a free & gentle (clear) version of their detergents? Can't recall seeing anything on the store shelves but my memory isn't what it used to be either.

Barry

 

[lordkenmore]

does Sun or Xtra come in a free & gentle (clear) version

Not that I've ever seen. (And this a product type I pay attention to since I often buy it.)

 

[launderess]

Bath towels, wash cloths, hand towels

Often aren't that dirty, well maybe hand towels, but still nothing any decent detergent cannot tackle. This includes BOL and MOL products.

As usual one's eyes and nose will tell if things are coming totally clean.

Happily all my washers drain into sink, now and then like to look at rinse water (especially final) to see if things are clear. Final rinse water with scum, muck or other flotsam means wash isn't up to one's standards. This is especially true going loads where most of the soil is body oils. Think bath water with all that crud floating about, and you get the idea.

 

[chachp]

We have white towels..

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I do a prewash with OxiClean and wash with the Miele Ultra White powder.  I use a warm wash, cold rinse and dry them on high heat.  They come out screaming white.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">But I have to say this discussion brings up memories of my Mom doing laundry when I was a kid.  I remember Monday was always laundry day and she loved it when it rained on Monday because she didn't feel like she was missing out on anything.  She was quite the character.  Loved being on the go.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">What I remember (she's gone so I can't confirm) was she washed whites in hot water with bleach that went into the laundry sink.  Then she used the SudsSaver option to bring the water back in and used that to wash towels.  She saved it a second time if she had rugs to wash.  I don't remember if our towels were all white or not when I was a kid but I do remember the smell of bleach.  I remember the agitator going as the water starting coming in from the bottom and it splashing as it filled.  I can't find a picture now but she had the mid 50s Whirlpool Washer and Dryer that had the handle in front that you pressed to open the lid on the washer and the door on the dryer.  I remember lots of lights and lots of chrome on that set.  I have seen pictures of this set floating around on the site.</span>

 

[perc-o-prince]

I use All Free & Clear that I get when it's on sale at Walgreens for $2.99 (32 load bottle). However, because of the FL Miele, that bottle lasts maybe 2-3 months or so- we use so little (aprox 1 tsp) or end up with suds in the final rinse. No cleaning issues here.

Chuck

 

[lotsosudz]

I USE ALL WITH OXI

I use the All with oxi on all our loads. I have a LG fl washer with turbo wash. When washing whites I always use the Sanitize Cycle with hot water, and with liquid bleach. As I said I use it on all our loads, and have great luck with stains coming out, as well as greasy stains. Our whites, even non bleached whites come out well, and it rinses out well, with no lingering suds.
Hugs,
David

 

[askolover]

Question answered...

Free and clear Sun.  You can also buy CVS Basics free and clear....same thing made by same company. 

 

[lakewebsterkid]

Cheap detergent and towels

In short, no.
We generally just use either the Tide liquid or powder we have on hand. I wash towels in hot so the enzymes really don’t make a profound effect. A cheaper detergent would like prove sufficient, but many of them suds up like you wouldn’t believe. Because of this I will continue to use the more expensive Tide. Generally I use an extra rinse, and a warm rinse when using Tide powder. All of our towels are white as well. Dingy towels are NOT an option. Not quite sure I could wash towels in warm.

 

[sfh074]

Sun powder ......

in our fl and tl do not overly suds up. We use the included scoop which equates to about 1/3rd cup per load in the fl. Scoop and a half in the top loader. Minimal sudsing. The mountain fresh scent variety is quite nice. And I hate overly fragranced towels and such.

 

[chachp]

Towels

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I used to use the Sanitary wash cycle on my white towels because I thought I had to do that to get them white.  The cycle takes over 3 hours which isn't an issue with me if that's what I need to to but I discovered the Miele Ultra White does it in warm in about an hour.  I use the PreWash option and an extra rinse.  I still dry them on High Heat.  I thought I had read from someone here that High heat to dry was more effective at sanitizing things so I started using it on my towels.  </span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I do however still use Sanitize for other things like my husbands nasty white socks, underwear, dishtowels, cleaning rags, etc.  I feel like I need to do that for these things because it would seem nasty not to.  But, honestly, as I'm typing these words I'm thinking maybe I need to just shut up and go back to Sanitize for the towels too.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I guess for as many posts as we might see on here, we would see that many opinions on what is most effective at cleaning and sanitizing.</span>

 

[sfh074]

I haven't .....

heard anyone talk about using bleach to sanitize and get whites white. We use bleach for whites and all of our whites are bright and the added chlorine kills any germs. Why waste power and water for sanitizing? Am I missing something?

 

[chachp]

Bleach....

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I quit using Chlorine Bleach years ago because of what it did to my clothes meaning they were white but they seemed to disintegrate more quickly than I thought they should.   I started using OxiClean when I bought my first Bosch washer in 2002.  The machine did not have a bleach dispenser and the book stated using chlorine bleach would void the warranty.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">A few years ago we replaced the Bosch with a Samsung that does have a dispenser but I never went back.  In my experience, my clothes last so much longer and I think the Oxygen bleach does a better job.</span>

 

[launderess]

Chlorine bleach is actually the de facto standard

For laundry sanitation; it works in cool or cold water, and against a wide variety of gram positive/negative bacteria, viruses, spores, etc... On the down side it does have that pesky problem of harming colors and causing loss of fabric tensile strength.

This being said not all chlorine bleaches sold today disinfect/sanitize. Key thing to look for is an EPA registration number on container. Over years many brands have been diluting things to point product will still whiten/remove stains, but no longer effectively work against bacteria, viruses, spores, etc.....

Same thing with another once frequently used disinfectant, pine oil cleaners. There again you have to read label to see if product is EPA registered.

 

[ea56]

I really don’t get what the obsession with sanitizing laundry is all about. I seldom use LCB anymore, I don’t like the smell and I think that oxi clean whitens better anyway.

I my mind if any germs can survive detergent, hot water and a hot dryer or hanging in sun to dry, then they deserve to live. LOL.

Now if you are doing laundry for someone that is ill with an extremely contagious disease or illness, then extra sanitization may be in order, but for normally used bath towels, laundering in hot water with a good detergent should suffice. After all, aren’t they being used to dry off after taking a supposedly cleansing shower or bath?

Eddie

 

[mrsalvo]

Ralph, I noticed that too about chlorine bleach deteriorating fabrics faster and changed my usage to an oxygen based bleach. Also I really didn't want to put chlorine bleach in the septic system since I don't really pump it out often. I can't tell the difference much in using oxygen bleach from the chlorine, esp. if I let a load of towels soak a while before finishing the cycle.

[I've switched to the free & clear detergents, trying to rid the house of strong smells, since I've gotten older I've had some health issues (migraines among them) and, overall, I think I feel better. (Gain nearly put me in the ER).
Some years ago I bought a plastic bucket of Wind Fresh from Sam's Club and after I used it up I kept the bucket for cleaning the house and patio areas. Many months later I picked it up after it was sitting in the indoor patio and lo, and behold, I could smell the scent of Wind Fresh quite strongly in the bucket. That told me the manufacturers were really piling on perfumes, and that helped me to decide to make a change.]
Am glad to have my question answered if Sun came in a free & clear version.
I may try it when I'm finished using up my current stash.

Laundress, I agree 100% with your comment about chlorine bleach. I learned the hard way about Lysol Bathroom cleaner not killing strong germs in the bathroom when my Dad was in TB treatments for bladder cancer. I called Lysol and they told me it was noneffective in killing the microbes. It put me in bed for 2 days!!!!! All that stuff did was to smear it around. I haven't used Lysol since.

Thanks guys,
Barry

 

[chachp]

I'm with you Eddie...

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">My motivation for the Sanitary cycle was never for disinfecting but because I thought the high temps cleaned better.  When we bought the Bosch, front loading washers weren't as popular as they are now and I think a machine that had an onboard heater wasn't that popular yet.  I specifically picked that machine for the heater because I wanted the better cleaning.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I only knew my whites were falling apart from the bleach and I wanted another option.  From what I read Oxygen Bleach and heat would do it.  At that time my choices seemed to be Bosch, Miele or Asko.  I went with Bosch because I was worried about getting service where we live.  That set lasted about 15 years with only a few service calls so I can't really complain.  We went with the Samsung this time for the size.  We wanted a machine to handle our king sized comforter and again I was worried about service out here in never, never land so we went with the Samsung.  So far, so good.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I never even thought about germs until folks here started talking about it.  So it has been in the back of my mind but I don't feel like I am harming either of us by the way I do our laundry.  At least I hope I'm not.  It's just the two of us and we seldom get sick so I guess we're OK.</span>

 

[launderess]

To be fair

There has been a push from certain quarters to wean domestic consumers off using copious amounts of anti-bacterial or whatever disinfectant products.

Personally for years haven't bothered with basic store products, but gotten commercial/institutional hospital grade disinfectants from supply houses or eBay. Dilute according to directions in spray bottle, and there you are. It truly is amazing things one remembers from nursing school, and odd how many ways it manifests itself... *LOL*

 

[mrsalvo]

John, to your original question: Using a good detergent, cheaper or not, for bath towels and wash cloths would, in my mind, depend on how OFTEN you use, or REUSE, a towel after bathing. Someone who would use a towel multiple times I would think would want to make sure the detergent would get the grub out. Lord only knows what is on a wash cloth when cleaning certain areas!!! If in doubt, just look at a freshly washed kitchen towel. Don't want to gross anyone out.

Barry

 

[sudsmaster]

A problem with cheap detergents may arise in hard water locations. Usually the main or only water softener in a cheap powder is sodium carbonate. This chemical can form insoluble mineral deposits in hard water, which then can deposit on both fabrics (looking like lint) and washer parts (looking like cement).  Additionally it can give the finished wash a scratchy feel.

 

In the past powders were softened with STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) and this chemical doesn't form insoluble precipitates in hard water. It also can help dramatically in removing mineral based soils from fabrics. These soils may include clay based mud/dirt, as well as even automotive lubricants like grease and oils. However starting in the 70's mfg's started phasing out phosphates from laundry detergents, because of concern that they were getting into fresh water bodies and encouraging algal blooms. For many years California and other arid states allowed phosphated laundry detergents while moister states like the eastern seaboard banned them. For a long time I've been able to purchase Mexican powdered laundry detergents that contained STPP. But for the past few years these have been replaced by phosphate free formulations, too. (Like Ariel, Foca, 123, etc).

 

My solution has been to purchase STPP in bulk from a local chemical supplier and add it separately to wash loads as needed. Especially towards the end of summer and into fall when the local water supply tends to get more mineral laden.

 

Liquid detergents generally do not contain STPP as it is not stable in aqueous storage. Instead these detergents may contain alternate water softeners which may or may not be as effective as STPP.

 

More expensive powders and liquids seem to contain better water softeners while avoiding phosphates. But I maintain that STPP is king when it comes to hard water.

 

 

 

[sudsmaster]

A problem with cheap detergents may arise in hard water locations. Usually the main or only water softener in a cheap powder is sodium carbonate. This chemical can form insoluble mineral deposits in hard water, which then can deposit on both fabrics (looking like lint) and washer parts (looking like cement).  Additionally it can give the finished wash a scratchy feel.

 

In the past powders were softened with STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) and this chemical doesn't form insoluble precipitates in hard water. It also can help dramatically in removing mineral based soils from fabrics. These soils may include clay based mud/dirt, as well as even automotive lubricants like grease and oils. However starting in the 70's mfg's started phasing out phosphates from laundry detergents, because of concern that they were getting into fresh water bodies and encouraging algal blooms. For many years California and other arid states allowed phosphated laundry detergents while moister states like the eastern seaboard banned them. For a long time I've been able to purchase Mexican powdered laundry detergents that contained STPP. But for the past few years these have been replaced by phosphate free formulations, too. (Like Ariel, Foca, 123, etc).

 

My solution has been to purchase STPP in bulk from a local chemical supplier and add it separately to wash loads as needed. Especially towards the end of summer and into fall when the local water supply tends to get more mineral laden.

 

Liquid detergents generally do not contain STPP as it is not stable in aqueous storage. Instead these detergents may contain alternate water softeners which may or may not be as effective as STPP.

 

More expensive powders and liquids seem to contain better water softeners while avoiding phosphates. But I maintain that STPP is king when it comes to hard water.

 

 

 

[mrboilwash]

Why waste power and water for sanitizing?

I wonder how much energy is used to produce a bottle of bleach. I think it would be interesting to know but unfortunately can`t find anything on this one.
Have no idea how electrolysis of bleach compares to boilwashing in an efficient washer energy wise, but can tell that bleach is much more expensive in the EU than in the US where power is rather cheap.
Then if you take the extra wear on clothes and the impact on the environment over the waste water into account I`m not sure if heat or bleach is cheaper in the end.

 

[askolover]

I paid $4+ for a gallon of Clorox at Walmart last night.  I have white towels I've owned for 10 years and always bleached that still look good.  Chlorine bleach degrades to salt water at some point. 

 

[sfh074]

Why .....

is it important for some person to buy name brand bleach vs store brand bleach?

Comparing the concentrations of sodium hypochlorite are often the same between the two. I buy the half gallon bottles for a dollar, one buckareno. They are much easier to lift and pour AND they are 5.25% sodium hypochlorite,as well.

What kills me is some bleach brands prominently advertise their concoction "kills 99.9999% of germs" and looking on the bottle the concentration is 5.25%. The highest strength I've seen on shelves is 8.25%. And it comes at a much, much higher cost. Am I missing something ..... why would I buy this slightly higher concentration vs use a bit more of the much cheaper 5.25%? Or buy name brand for that matter?

 

[iheartmaytag]

Not for Towels

Which I use either Tide powder, or Gain flings.
I do, however, use the cheap detergents, right now All pods for my blue jeans and flannel shirts. It does a good job, even with the dusty, grimy stuff from doing yard work.

 

[launderess]

Six or even near nine percent chlorine bleach is stronger and thus offers better stain/whitening and other properties. This and at that level of concentration you can achieve germicidal action.

It is a simple matter of chemistry and physics; diluting more of a less concentrated product in a given amount of water may or may not get you there. Then there is fact you are using *more* product which in turn means things end up costing more, not less. Hence as Clorox and others make clear bargain bleaches are not very much so.

https://www.rjschinner.com/blog/trainingaides/JanSan/2017/Bleach_WhatWeNeedToKnow.pdf