Cleaners/Rust Preventatives

[doityrselfguy]

HI -

I've been using CLR on the machine I'm restoring, but am wondering if there is anything stronger that I can use without harming the finishes underneath. A particularly tough part to get clean is the portion of the inner basket under the agitator - between the outer rim of the agitator to the center seal.

Also, are products such as Rust-Oleum still flammable months after application? There are some rusty parts of the inside cabinet that I'm able to clean down to a point, but was considering treating them with this product to prevent the spread of rust. With these parts being so close to wiring and electricity, I'm concerned.

Any feedback from the more experienced would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Pete

 

[kenmore1978]

Flammable paint

Rust-Oleum isn't any more flammable than any other paint once it's dried, don't worry.

 

[gyrafoam]

Well, when it comes to hard water and rust stains "Sno-Bol" is hard to beat! Mark (Lightedcontrols) introduced me to it and I was skeptical---one try was all it took---I'm convinced! Be careful though, it contains hydrochloric acid so wear gloves when using. Will cause stains on stainless steel! It is the best stuff I have ever found to remove hard water and rust stains from porcelain surfaces. It is a gel, so just spread it on and let it sit an hour or so. If some stain is left re-apply and let sit longer. This stuff really works! You will find it in the grocers supply of toilet cleaning chemicals. As far as rust is concerned, Greg (Gansky) introduced me to a product called "POR-15". (They have a web site to order from or locate a distributor in your area.) It is a paint-on product, comes in black, red, or blue color. I just brush away the majority of the rust and clean area, then paint on the POR-15. I have NEVER used anything like it. Man, this stuff works! I have no doubt the treated area will NEVER rust again!!!I just used it extensivly inside and around the tub platform and bottom and sides of the outer tub and tub centerpost of my '59 Kenmore. Make sure work area is well ventilated! Be prepared to sacrifice a paint brush, and try to treat everything in sight while the can is open as exposure to the atmosphere dries it up fast! I use a piece of "Glad-Wrap" plastic film between the can and lid when I close up the can, then like paint, I store it up-side down. Best wishes! -Steve

 

[kenmore1978]

Por -15

is a popular product used a lot in treating rust when restoring classic cars in the car hobby. That's when I first heard about it.

 

[gansky1]

Sno-Bol? I can see where that would work well, but you do have to be careful with hydrochloric acids on porcelain, it's very easy to etch them permanently with these types of chemicals. I've accidently done this with t-bowl cleaners, lime-away, etc. on washer tubs - it's very sad to ruin a perfectly good tub with a chemical mistake. Just be careful and remember to be safe, they are strong chemicals!

 

[kenmore1978]

Lime-Away

I believe, is phosphoric acid.

 

[gansky1]

Both

Phosphoric acid and Hydrochloric acid are both used in t-bowl cleaners and bathroom cleaners. I buy them by the gallon for my biz...

 

[gansky1]

Lime Away

Yes, Lime Away is phosphoric acid - didn't see your "drift" line - very strong stuff though, eats right through the lime deposits on fixtures and have etched a poor, defenseless washer tub with it. The gel version is very harsh!

 

[doityrselfguy]

Thanks guys - maybe I'll try a diluted solution of Sno-Bol, and make sure it contacts only the build up I'm trying to remove. I've never heard of Por-15, but will hunt it down.

By the way, does anyone know how to post pictures saved to a CD?

 

[kenmore1978]

Pictures on CD

If the pictures on the CD are in a "normal" format (.jpg, .gif, .bmp) than they can be copied and posted just as if they were on your hard drive. No difference. Otherwise, you can bring them up in a photo editor like Photoshop or Paintshop, then re-save them in your format of choice.