I set up all the components on the bench
for a full test . I found once I did that --- there was NO Power to anything. After testing each component for run capability you put it all together and get BLAHHHH-NADA!
Found out our little club member "Edna" was a tad aggressive with this machine when it died. He must have jammed the YU motor protector switch in so far it bent the contacts inside so they no longer made contact. So these are NASTY switches to disassemble and work in, they are like spring loaded many small part jack in the boxes ! BOING it all comes apart. You really need to know what you are doing! Fortunately this wasn't my first Rodeo!
Tweaking the contacts forward from their "jammed' position and bingo the YU switch works. Fortunately though I have a club member who is zooming another NIB just incase. You can see the guts of the switch, the little ratchet that engages the copper tang. As the motor overloads the copper bends under heat and boing the switch is freed to disengage. This is the first one Ive see that works this way, much better the originals had a lead pot that melted letting the ratchet release but that lead system had 3 -4 cycle life IF the whole thing didnt get too hot. If it did the lead all melted out to the bottom and you could never get it to engage again.
for a full test . I found once I did that --- there was NO Power to anything. After testing each component for run capability you put it all together and get BLAHHHH-NADA!
Found out our little club member "Edna" was a tad aggressive with this machine when it died. He must have jammed the YU motor protector switch in so far it bent the contacts inside so they no longer made contact. So these are NASTY switches to disassemble and work in, they are like spring loaded many small part jack in the boxes ! BOING it all comes apart. You really need to know what you are doing! Fortunately this wasn't my first Rodeo!
Tweaking the contacts forward from their "jammed' position and bingo the YU switch works. Fortunately though I have a club member who is zooming another NIB just incase. You can see the guts of the switch, the little ratchet that engages the copper tang. As the motor overloads the copper bends under heat and boing the switch is freed to disengage. This is the first one Ive see that works this way, much better the originals had a lead pot that melted letting the ratchet release but that lead system had 3 -4 cycle life IF the whole thing didnt get too hot. If it did the lead all melted out to the bottom and you could never get it to engage again.
