Commercial-Quality Coupler For DD Whirly?

[danemodsandy]

Hello:

I'm about to try replacing the coupler in my DD Whirly Design 2000. Someone here (in another thread, which I can't find at the moment, naturally) mentioned that a repairman he knows always replaces Whirly couplers with the commercial-quality unit, not the standard one. Does anyone here have a part number and a source? My washer's model number is LA5600XP, if that helps- it's a MOL, large-capacity washer.

Thanks in advance!

 

[appnut]

Sandy, I know exactly what you are referring to. It aws a coment Tomturbomatic made within a thread, but Ican't find it either right now.

 

[danemodsandy]

Mr. Turbomatic to the white phone, please! Mr. Thomas Turbomatic to the white phone, please...

Thanx, Appnut!

 

[gansky1]

When you go to the appliance parts store, ask for part number 285852. It's more expensive than the standard, but will last much longer.

 

[tolivac]

Would that coupler still shear off in case of overload-thought that was the purpose of them breaking-to act as a "mechanical fuse" in case something jams the washer to prevent damage to the transmission.-Say a tennis shoe wedging between one of the agitator blades and the tub.A BD machine the belt would slip a little until the shoe shifted position.A coupler wouldn't allow that "slippage"The same idea of belt driven rotary mowers like a "KEE" mower in case you hit a stump or rock with the blade the belt would slip slightly preventing damage to the motor and blade.But the mower would still cut heavy grass and weeds just fine--I used to own one.That mower could cut thru waist high grass even at idle speed.It had a 5Hp B&S motor.

 

[tomturbomatic]

The new couplers are much improved over the old design. The 6 holes and pins are not circular, but rather oval shaped and don't tear through the rubber like the old ones, thus providing a better connection in the first place. When there is failure in this assembly, it can be the breakage of the pins on one side or the other or the failure of the rubber doughnut connecting one side to the other or a combination of the two. The new plastic couplers have a bronze bushing around the opening that rides on the motor and tranny shafts to provide better durability. They are the same part number as the current part, but with an A on the end. I think they want to sell the remaining old style first, but they are available in some areas for a few cents more.

Thanks, Greg, for supplying the part number and for picking up the white courtesy phone for me.
Tom

 

[danemodsandy]

THANKS!!!

I really appreciate the info! I don't do repairs like this often, and when I do, I like for them to last. This will give my Whirly a fighting chance.

 

[runematic]

There are three couplers out right now. The normal number is 285753. The one reffered to by Tom is 285753a with a bronze piece in the middle of the plastic parts of the coupler. The one referrenced by Mr. Gansky (285852) is one with a belted-type heavy-duty rubber coupler. That one is the commercial-type but doesn't have the insert in the plastic. Hopefully I wasn't too confusing.

 

[wash&where?]

Heavy Duty Coupler

I see the heavy duty couplers on e-bay all the time.

 

[wash&where?]

Heavy Duty Coupler

I see the heavy duty coupler on e-bay all the time. You might want to try there.

 

[wash&where?]

Heavy Duty Couplers On Ebay

I see the heavy duty couplers on e-bay all the time. Try there.

 

[wash&where?]

Sorry I keep duplicating

For some reason I could not get this message to post so I kept typing it again. Oh well now you know where to look.

 

[rolltideroll]

I am currently re-inventing this coupler. I have some pretty cool designs so far. This is an age old problem and have always thought that Kenmore's reasoning for this part being so fragile so in case of possible lockup then the coupler will break. Well as far as I'm concerned, Kenmore makes such a good product, why would they prop it up with such a featherweight coupler. Just to keep the repairman busy I guess? I will tell you part of the basis of my new design. It involves metal, wood (urathane coated), and a glass fuse that will blow in case the thermal overload keeps trying to let the motor restart. Oh no! now i've told Kenmore the answer. LOL.