Excessive humidity in the attic.

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jmm63

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I'm having a problem with humidity and mold on the underside of the roof sheathing in the lower attic of my house. Anyone have this problem and how did it get fixed? I noticed the mold when I went in to get Christmas decorations. It's only on the plywood sheeting on the north side of this part of the roof. Humidity levels are running about 78% in there. I put the dehumidifier in there when the weather was warmer and got it down to about 50% but now that the weather has turned cold the dehumidifier doesn't work. Right now I've got two fans running in there, one in the gable vent pulling air out, the other just blowing air around. I sprayed the mold lightly with a bleach/water solution but I don't know how good this could be for the wood. Any suggestions would be helpful.
 
You've either got a roof leak, insufficient ventilation, or both. I'd check carefully around all the flashing where the roof meets the house wall (assuming your house has such a condition) and where roof planes intersect (ridges and valleys) for any problems. Remember that leaks can be difficult to trace as water can run all sorts of odd places.
 
I don't suspect a leak. The roof is 4 years old and was a complete tear off right down to the plywood (done before I bought the house) There is no signs of water staining and the floor and insulation are dry. There is a ridge vent and a gable vent but the mold is on the lowest part of the roof.
 
This is a two-part problem with a two-part solution

Moisture in the living space is getting into the attic and condensing on the cool underside of the roof.   It sounds like either you don't have adequate vents along the soffits (under the roof overhang) or they are blocked.  In a typical passively vented attic outside air should enter under the soffits and rise between each of the rafters, drawing moisture and heat to exit via roof, ridge and gable vents.  There needs to be equal sq. ft. of "entry" and "exit" vents for the system to work well.  There are calculators online to help determine if you have enough vents for the size (cubic volume) of your attic. 

 

Sealing up any places where moisture can leak from the living space into the attic is the other part.  Even the smallest little gaps can leak a lot.  Is the attic access door weatherstripped?  Every ceiling light fixture, especially recessed can lights are likely leaky spots, and bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan ducts can leak as well where they pass through the ceiling.
 
"There is a ridge vent and a gable vent but the mold is on the lowest part of the roof."

This sounds like no air is getting in through the soffit vents. A lot of the time, insulation installers blow cellulose or shove batts down into the soffit and block the soffit vents. If you can, shine a flashlight into your soffit vents from the outside; you should be able to see into the attic. If you just see insulation, you need to clear that out of the soffit.
 
I had a terrible problem for years with water vapor in my attic.  It was so bad the nails from the shingles had ice forming on them and it literally rained when the temp warmed up.  Tried to identify the problem for some time, thought my indoor humidity was too high, I like it in the mid 50s during the heating season, and my Aiprilaire tracks with outdoor temp, so I even tried lowering it.  did not like it dry in the house and it didn't solve the problem.

 

Then a year or so ago I found the problem.  Not at all what I expected.  In my attic opening I had placed foam insulation, the type you use around exterior doors -grey sticky one side.  It was allowing moisture into the attic as it aged.  I removed it with a scraper and problem solved.  Last winter I checked a few times and there was no water buildup noticeable.
 
Thanks for your thoughts everyone. Interestingly, the kitchen sink and stove are in the room below this part of the attic so now I'm thinking moisture vapor is finding its way up there. The house is a "cape-colonial" so that section is the "cape" and with the roofline, there is no soffit to put vents in. If I can get through winter with the fans blowing up there, I'll have to look into someother type of roof vents.
 
Circular Vents

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Intake and outlet vents are two basic types found in most attic ventilation. Intake vents are found in the soffit under the eaves, while outlet vents are installed higher in the attic to allow air to escape. Roof, ridge and gable vents are variations of outlet vents. Ridge vents are the least conspicuous, as they are the same color as shingles and are held back from the roof's gables. Roof vents are watertight devices manufactured of light-gauge metal or plastic and are installed directly into the roof. Gable vents are considered the most efficient type of roof venting. Circular vents are intake devices that are installed when there is no room in the eaves for traditional vents. Starter vents are another example of intake vents

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<span style="color: #000000;">Here they are at the Home Depot I am sure Lowes has them too. </span>

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Also are the exhaust fans for the bathrooms and the kitchens taken all they way through the roof to the outside?  Some cheap contractors will have the bathroom exhaust go right into hte attic - and that is bad news.  If so, installing an exhaust pipe to outside should help a lot.

 

Does your insulation have a vapor barrier?  On fiberglass, it looks like brown paper and the brown should face the inside of the house.
 
TO answer some questions:
There are no soffits to vent in this section of the roof. One contractor told me that the ridge vent and gable vent were enough but I don't see how air is going to flow up the underside of the roof with out some type of vent on the lower surface.

The house is on a dirt crawl space. I did have that all sealed with vapor barrier right after I bought the house.

The insulation up there does not have a vapor barrier. I installed new, unfaced batting over the old stuff a few years ago. I was told to use unfaced if going over existing.

There are no bathroom exhaust vents in this portion of the house. The others do vent to the outside.
I'll post some pictures later today.
 
It would be a good idea to take the existing insulation out and put in either a sheet vapor barrier, or batts with facing. Then, if the old insulation isn't wet or moldy, you can put it back in on top.
 
The old insulation should have had a vapor barrier between itself and the floor of the attic. However it's possible that if it was blown in that it didn't have a vapor barrier - or someone goofed and put in unfaced fiberglass. I agree it probably would be a very good idea, if the old insulation is not faced, to pull it all up and add some vapor barrier underneath it all. A home can add a huge amount of water vapor to an attic space if there is no vapor barrier.

When I insulated the attic in this '41 home, the attic has zero insulation. I was using Miraflex batts but they had both sides perforated, so I somewhat laboriously cut polyethylene plastic into strips and laid them into the bays between the ceiling joists, and then slid the bats on top of them. This had a side benefit of easing intallation, because the ceiling was of an old design with hard plaster sticking up through holes in the ceiling boards, which otherwise would have snagged the batts when I tried to slide them into place.

I was mindful of the fact that adding insulation to the attic floor would make that space colder in the winter, bringing on the possibility of humidity condensing in the attic and dripping. So that was another reason for making sure there was a vapor barrier under all the insulation. Additionally, the soffits were all enclosed. Again, rather laboriously, I opened up a 2" wide channel in all the enclosed soffits, protected it with slotted soffit ventilation strips, and also drilled three 1" holes in the blocking in each rafter bay between the opened soffits and the attic. I also ran ventilation channels in every rafter bay, to prevent the fiberglass insulation (which eventually rose to about 16" at its tallest) from blocking the ventilation from the opened soffits. The result has been no sign of condensation in the attic. And of course a much warmer and more comfortable living space below.

Later I covered up the entire crawl space with more poly plastic, to reduce the amount of moisture entering the structure from the earth. There was also an old furnace chimney that extended from the crawl space and was left open in the attic. While this probably helped ventilate the crawl space, there was already plenty of vents in the foundation, and all it probably did was introduce more moisture into the attic. So I sealed that off top and bottom.
 

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