List of links to follow, some general
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/24/2016 panthera
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First, Phil gave you some good advice. Here's some general tips:
1) Tubes are the second least likely component to fail. Mica capacitors basically never fail and given the role they play in alignment, shouldn't be touched unless necessary.
2) Electrolytic capacitors have two special concerns: 1) They're polarized, 2) They pack enough wallop to kill you. No kidding.
So - always make sure they're discharged before you work on them and pay close attention to polarity.
3) High voltage, enough to kill you or fry something is always present in a tube chassis. All American Five radios almost always have the metal chassis at 120v, whether on or off. That's dangerous. Know what you're doing before you work on them.
So - enough of the scary stuff. Basically, here's some useful stuff I've done throughout the years:
1) One component at a time. Take lots of photos.
2) Don't unsolder the capacitors, just clip their leads and solder new ones in place. Why risk damaging board traces or other components?
3) Leave the big can in place and do unsolder its leads completely. You don't have to put the replacement electrolytics right under it, they can go anywhere there's room for them in the chassis, just shield the leads.
V-M:
If you like, I'll send you a .pdf manual which will cover the components. There's links I'll add later (I'm cooking for Thanksgiving right now) showing how really good people work on them. But, again, some basics:
1) Do not, under any circumstances, use force. Those castings are not as strong as they look.
2) The switch at the back of the mechanism is expensive and sometimes the only way to replace a damaged one is to rob one from another changer. In short, don't remove it unless you have to.
3) There's an astonishing number of little balls and springs waiting to jump out and disappear forever.
4) The motor has to go back together the way it came apart, mark it (the voice of experience). Again, a snug screw and a drop of the lowest strength threadlock is infinitely preferable to too tight.
5) WD-40 is a wonderful cleaner for these. It is of zero value as lube.
6) High quality sewing machine oil or 3in1 in the BLUE tin not the RED tin is just right.
7) The tiniest amount of grease is necessary. I like to avoid lithium. I use high quality R/C grease from the model car/plane shops. It's just a bit thinner than Vasoline, which doesn't hold up to the heat - otherwise, it'd be ideal. We're talking about less than a match head of grease on any single component and none on any rubber parts or the trip system.
This is general stuff - by the time you've done those radios, you'll be ready for this.
