Feelin' Swank. 1963 Philco Stereo Console

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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/23/2016 kbones
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Great pictures Louie! It really is in amazingly good shape overall for being 53.

I'd start out by pulling out the chassis and cleaning everything and getting familiar with the lay of the land. Look at the tube labeling and try to determine if they are originals, if so it may not have a lot of run time. Go through with a DMM and measure resistances to insure they haven't drifted off too badly +/-10% of the schematic value is reasonable. When measuring resistances in circuit, be aware that other parallel paths through the circuit could add error to your measurements.

I'd wager that the only capacitors that you should initially replace are any of the electrolytic units, while I would likely replace all the cylindrical paper capacitors eventually, they aren't highly likely to be "bad" to the point of causing a problem. It looks like the electrolytics are C70, C71, C73 and the quad-section can C83. I would replace the can with 4 separate capacitors under the chassis if there is room to tuck them in there. There are some reproduction twist-lock can caps today but there aren't many choices in value's. The NOS parts are just old now so they are likely bad before they were ever used. I'd leave the can there for looks.

Personally I would have trouble simply restoring one of these, I'd just want to resto-mod it so badly. I have long been POoGE'ing (Progressive Optimization of Generic Electronics) classic HiFi gear. I'd end up swapping out all the speakers and would likely swap the tube rectifier for solid state etc. Speaker technology is so much better today then 50 years ago, but then again it would lose that character that it had in 1963. It could easily be made more accurate, but that may not entirely be the goal, some might say this would ruin it.

Best of luck with the project, there are a few folks here glad to provide advice and moral support as you go!

 

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Thank you Panthera...

 

 

<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/23/2016</span></span>

 

Any Youtube link you can forward would be helpful. Loved the one you sent. Apparently, she's just not another pretty face. I'm willing to give a lube job, and tackle any other issue the V-M may have. Seems so solid and well made. I am far more mechanically inclined. Cap jobs, well, I'm a babe in the woods. Before I touch the Philco, I have about eight tube radios that need attention. If anything, at least I can learn something from those.

 

 

 

 

 

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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/23/2016</span></span>

 

Thanks Mike. I have no idea who manufactured the cabinet. It certainly is well made and beautiful. Whomever bought, and maintained this beauty has my heartfelt thanks.

 

 

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I see nothing wrong

 

 

<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/23/2016 panthera
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With purposeful upgrades. Just the opposite. I suspect, though, that doing the electrolytic caps, bringing the resisters back to tolerance (at 10% were not exactly talking extreme here) and thinking about updating the speakers is well within reason.

As to the cartridge, I'd definitely go with the necessary upgrades on the slide plate (that polyethane slider + ball bearing) and 2gram cartridge. This V-M might already have all of that, including the nylon take up for the cam. Or not. Stuff like this makes sense.

Given the things which really matter - transient response, soft clipping, really muted third order harmonics, I suspect the sound is going to be pretty damn good by any standards.

 

 

 

 

 

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List of links to follow, some general

 

 

<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">11/24/2016 panthera
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First, Phil gave you some good advice. Here's some general tips:



1) Tubes are the second least likely component to fail. Mica capacitors basically never fail and given the role they play in alignment, shouldn't be touched unless necessary.



2) Electrolytic capacitors have two special concerns: 1) They're polarized, 2) They pack enough wallop to kill you. No kidding.



So - always make sure they're discharged before you work on them and pay close attention to polarity.



3) High voltage, enough to kill you or fry something is always present in a tube chassis. All American Five radios almost always have the metal chassis at 120v, whether on or off. That's dangerous. Know what you're doing before you work on them.



 



So - enough of the scary stuff. Basically, here's some useful stuff I've done throughout the years:



1) One component at a time. Take lots of photos. 



2) Don't unsolder the capacitors, just clip their leads and solder new ones in place. Why risk damaging board traces or other components?



3) Leave the big can in place and do unsolder its leads completely. You don't have to put the replacement electrolytics right under it, they can go anywhere there's room for them in the chassis, just shield the leads. 



 



V-M:



If you like, I'll send you a .pdf manual which will cover the components. There's links I'll add later (I'm cooking for Thanksgiving right now) showing how really good people work on them. But, again, some basics:



1) Do not, under any circumstances, use force. Those castings are not as strong as they look.



2) The switch at the back of the mechanism is expensive and sometimes the only way to replace a damaged one is to rob one from another changer. In short, don't remove it unless you have to. 



3) There's an astonishing number of little balls and springs waiting to jump out and disappear forever. 



4) The motor has to go back together the way it came apart, mark it (the voice of experience). Again, a snug screw and a drop of the lowest strength threadlock is infinitely preferable to too tight.



5) WD-40 is a wonderful cleaner for these. It is of zero value as lube.



6) High quality sewing machine oil or 3in1 in the BLUE tin not the RED tin is just right.



7) The tiniest amount of grease is necessary. I like to avoid lithium. I use high quality R/C grease from the model car/plane shops. It's just a bit thinner than Vasoline, which doesn't hold up to the heat - otherwise, it'd be ideal. We're talking about less than a match head of grease on any single component and none on any rubber parts or the trip system.



 



This is general stuff - by the time you've done those radios, you'll be ready for this. 

 

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revive an oldie!

<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a name="bott"></a>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a name="bott"></a>11/22/2019 camster
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I have an old philco here, and not having any luck finding a schematic!

kbOnes in Post# 908082 , Reply# 22 seems you have what I'm looking for...any chance you could post the whole thing, or get me a copy?

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Cameron. You may find what your looking for in reply #14.

 

[estatesale_gary]

Philco consoles are fab

Friends own a local vintage electronic restoration shop. Had this 1967 Philco restored for our friend Jen. Got it from a local Savers. Transistor set. Was recapped and table rebuilt. Sounds grea!

 

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The Philco is still awaiting repairs alas. This is a perfect example of having way too much on your plate. Right now, I am focusing in getting 2 vintage refrigerators back in service.