Ebay: Genuine GE WH41X113 Washer Recirc Hose NEW in Package
For some odd reason the seller has it listed under "building supplies/tubing" category instead of laundry parts, go figure.
He's got it on sale from $49.99, marked down to $42.99 + 2.99 shipping.
I posted a link to it. Let me know if it doesn't work.
"SURRENDER THAT WINDOWED NEPTUNE DRYER DOOR DOROTHY, OR ELSE!~"
Jetcone,
What's sudden interest in the Filter-Flo hose? It's woefully overpriced and there are less expensive replacements. Is there an advantage to this "all in one" design? I prefer the white "Never kink" corrugated hoses since you can somewhat see through them and can keep an eye on any bacterial growth.
-Alex
Once I had gotten the SpotScubber leveled out I got into the habit of letting the cycle complete without watching over it. Well, the other night I just happened to come out to find the washer in the final spin and this loud repetitive clicking/clacking noise coming from the washer that sounded remotely like the speed shift engagement of the solenoid and clutch. So I shut the washer off and restarted it, only to have the same noise return. Go to the back of the machine and find this tiny weeping leak coming from the area of where the drain hose attaches to the water pump. The water ran down the motor yoke, up and over the wiring harness and thru the connector leading to the clutch solenoid. Possibly shorting it out. I then turned my attention to the "never kink" PVC drain hose and found it was splitting apart at the seam. These hoses are tuff new, but get hella brittle as they age and one day just split. OK, So I'll be replacing it with a new hose, but that brings me back to the clutch/solenoid problem. Now my washer is stuck on "gentle" spin/agitate.
Who's the Genius at GE that decided it was a good idea to line up the washer drain pump outlet over the main motor wiring harness connection? You would have though that UL would have pointed that out to them.
.I rerouted the clutch solenoid wiring connector up out of the way from the mail wiring harness with a zip tie to discourage water from running down into it.
.. A bright and shiny newer motor/clutch and relay assembly is a sight to behold though, might have to just break-down and buy one, even if it costs almost as much a whole machine on the used market.
Not sure if the green connector is going to make any difference to the red one on the original, they are both equipped with 2-speed clutches. Maybe related to horsepower? 1/3, 1/2 or 1/4?
I take it that the water leak killed the motor......
you can get a new one like this, or hold out for a while and see if another machine turns up, maybe with a rust issue or something, and have a decent motor/clutch you can use......
Just a thought, If the solenoid was energized in error due to the leak, maybe the cam/actuatort arm might be bent out of position? Something I have to look into once I replace the "no kink" drain hose.