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launderess

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Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage
My God what have I done? *LOL*

Earlier today a GE Mobile Maid dishwasher was delivered. Am not home but asked a neighbor to meet the shipper and take collection. Unit will be left at our front door until someone arrives home to bring it inside.

Asked our sainted neighbor to check for any damage both inside and out of the unit before signing off and he said things looked good on the outside (no dents, marks, etc...), but inside there were some "rust" spots on the inner tub. There is also some rust on the racks as well. Again won't know more until one gets home and pops the bonnet for a deeper examination. He did say the inside had a whiff of something like kerosene. Is this normal?

Just hope the rust spots are perhaps "stains" and not something that has damaged the tub coating. One has already read all the dire warnings about what that can lead to.

For the record this is the GE Mobile Maid from here: http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?52551

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Congratulations Launderess!!!!
Enjoy it, keep handy an estingusher in case it catches fire due to Kerosene! LOL+
People use dishwashers and old refrigerators as cupboards...it maybe stored a kerosene tank...or maybe it sat in an old basement with a kerosene heater...at our farm we have a wonderful old 1920s kerosene heater I should take and post pics someday, and everything in the main 1800s Villa's heater room got that kerosene aroma....

I found tons of old stuff down there...
Jokes apart, looking forward to see it inside and working.
[this post was last edited: 7/16/2014-18:09]
 
Congratulations!!  I knew you'd not be able to resist getting a Mobile Maid for too long.  LOL 

 

The rust stains on the racks and tub liner may just be due to iron in the water where it was previously used.  There are lots of ways to get of that - it's not a big issue.  

 

The 'kerosene' smell may possibly be a plumbing antifreeze that the former owner put in the machine to prevent pump damage while the machine was stored at freezing temperature or below.  That will vanish after a full wash cycle. 

 

Can't wait for you to check it out and report back!!  It looks in darn good shape, so I hope there will be no major issues!!  

 

Just one quick caution - the washer on the hose connecting the Unicouple hose to the water inlet valve may need replacing.  One does have to remove the front panel of the machine to do so, but it's dead easy.  

 

 
 
Aferim!

I have this exact model and I love it. It's not the TOL; it's a full-featured MOL. The TOL has a Rinse-Aid indicator and a butcher-block top, big deal. This model has the neat mechanically-operated Rinse-Glo dispenser and 3 cycles. Mine has a small leak somewhere in the nether-regions that has eluded me up to now, but it's a dandy little machine. These have my favorite GE silverware basket that came in 3 different colors.

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Ok, just got home.

As another member said about his Mobile Maid purchase, "keep reminding yourself you only paid $50 ....".

Outside looks pretty minty, but the inside of the DW has issues. First and foremost rust on some of the top racks and pretty bad on the lower. Also it seems someone did some "baking" with this unit *LOL* One side of a upper rack near the support has melted a bit.

Hard to say what is rust and what isn't as the inside is pretty grimy so will have to address that first to sort that bit out. Right away however noticed a small nick near the pump area that is rusted. Worse the area surrounding it is raised and blistered. Rather like what one sees surrounding a wound. Know from reading the archives on Mobile Maids this is not good. Am wondering if it is too late to keep the Frigidaire? *LOL*

Will take and post snaps later tonight once one gets things sorted. This MM is larger than the Frigidaire and one still has not torn down that unit and given it the heave. Next trash collection day is not until Friday to the earliest can put it out would be late Thursday night.

Have not bothered doing a hot water soak and test for leaks thing yet. Want to sort out cleaning the thing up and also need to tip the girl over and see how things look underneath. Of course am *VERY* worried about the rust and that knick with blistering underneath the Plastisol. Looks as if someone dropped knife of something and it hit the bottom of the dw and caused this problem.
 
In case anyone is interested, here are some snaps

Don't know if one should feel queasy and or otherwise unsure of having gone this route. Is it worth the effort to speak with seller about the "rust" issues in view of perhaps some sort of partial refund?

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Good show on the new Mobile Maid!  You won't regret it once the rust issue is fixed up.  

 

The only one that looks as though it needs immediate attention is the bubbled hole.  I doubt you'll get much of a refund from the seller if it was sold as is and most times, it's not worth pursuing for the small amount of money.  Get it fixed up and in running condition and you won't remember the pain of birthing when it's all over :-)

 

I'm sure others have made a repair to the Plastisol tub like this before, I've been lucky to have not had to do more than small specks of rust.  Others will chime in soon so I'll defer to their experience but know that I'm with you in spirit and hopeful anticipation of seeing your first full Bob Load finished and gleaming!

 

 
 
Agreed

That's in glorious condition overall. I'll keep my fingers crossed that your motor seal is good. The rest is just cleaning!

I'm not sure about that bubble--it needs addressing for certain, but I'm not sure whether I'd prefer to epoxy/JBWeld the hole and leave it be to try and stop the water intrusion, or actually go in guns blazing and take that spot down to bare metal, then apply patch over the top. If it were a porcelain tank, I would, but with Plastisol--has anyone abated rust like this successfully with some of our more modern patch products?

My concern with Plastisol in the past has been getting something to mate with the intact surface evenly and strongly, to avoid having water sneak in under the edges and back down to the metal all over again.
 
Thanks Lads

Am dying to see if the seals are intact but don't want to get water into the "slit" until one knows what one is dealing with. Pictures make it look worse than it probably is but still it is obvious the damage has gotten at least as far as under the skin so to speak.

Am also that dying to run hot wash with some dishwasher cleaner to get the mouldy/kerosene whiff out. It is stinking up the place! With windows open suppose it is bearable, but when they are shut for the AC being on will be another matter.

Suppose one could *carefully" pour about one or two liters of water into the center but keeping the level well below the damage. With a "wee-wee" pad underneath should soon or at least by tomorrow morning know the tale.
 
Have A Vintage Hotpoint "Mobile Maid" Service Manual

Which outlines the steps for repair of damaged Plastisol. Needless to say the kits sold by GE are NLA, but there are various other epoxy substances on the market currently.

From what one has read in the archives the recommended repair using even GE products was not a permanent fix most times. That is after scraping away the rust, cleaning and so forth to prepare the area, even a new coat of the GE epoxy may or may not have done the deal. Am wondering if perhaps as you say it might be best to somehow seal over the knick and leave the Plastisol alone.

Have shoved the Mobile Maid into the cubby formerly occupied by the Frigidaire. It was a squeeze but managed. So in order to look at the underside would have to haul the thing out and find room to tip it on it's back or side. Think will do this after trying a water test. This way can tell if and or where any leaks seem to be coming from.
 
Leaks

I think you'll like this machine a lot, it has much more character than a D&M. Today's modern detergents will give its wash performance a considerable boost--lots of folks here seem to really like theirs.

If it leaks, two major points I've discovered are the hoses, where they crimp into the pump (yes, crimp--they're just pressed in there, and have a rubber grommet around them to hold them in place; if this is dislodged or deteriorates, they can be very challenging to re-seal). The other is the motor carbon-porcelain seal. The disassembly to investigate this was not difficult, but finding a new seal will be. I'll keep my fingers crossed that all's well there.

Be sure to investigate for any stray bits down in the sump, like screws, olive pits, or glass shards. While the wash impeller is a big, boat-prop sort of affair made out of plastic, the drain impeller that also drives the Power Shower is very fragile, just a pressed piece of metal formed into a little two-lobed impeller. If anything gets to it, it can tear one of the lobes and wreak havoc on the seal from the ensuing vibration.
 
I also think the tub is in rather decent shape. With some cleaning, it should look good! As Greg said, be concerned about the bubble but it should be an easy fix! 

 

I hope you'll like it! 
 
Ahhh.

With some luck on your side, you should be able to repair the Plastisol issue fairly easily, I imagine.

How long that might last is anyone's guess - but provided you let the thing dry thoroughly after each use, I don't see any issue with it developing too much further (Especially with careful repair).

 

Once damage-control is done with the dishwasher, I imagine a hot detergent wash should do the trick with the stale smell/kerosene that plagues the machine. One shouldn't need any new-fangled cleaners to do the job, right?
 
I Must Have Enemies!

Well after about an hour with scrubbing bubbles foam and lots of elbow grease with buckets of hot water sorted out the interior. Cleaned up nicely and some of what one thought was rust (those drip marks along the back of the tub) were indeed mineral water stains. Much of that came off but faint traces remain.

Now onto the sad parts.

There is another small bubble in the sump area. Also a type of near semi-circular mark just under the detergent dispenser. But wait there is more.

Before filling the sump below that bubble/rust mark thought it best to look underneath. In short "Houston we have problems".

First had to vacuum tons of hair (Cat? Dog? God only knows what?) that was around the motor and covering the wires. It looked as if the motor had grown fur. Got all of it off and out but not sure what is inside the housing. Then took care of the spider webs and eggs (yes this Miele vacuum bag is being replaced and chucked out tonight, *LOL*), only to become totally gutted.

It seems the bubble/cut mark has allowed water to reach the outer tub as there is a nice rust stain and small hole that has been eaten away in the metal. Not sure how large the hole is versus just the actual rust staining. Didn't want to probe too deeply before checking here as to what steps one should take next. Don't want to run the machine without water for damaging the pump, but want to see if water h as gotten into the thing and it is fried.
 
Congratulations

Mobile Maids of this era throw a Niagara of water and clean everything!

Mine had a rust-thru hole, I fixed it with JB Weld. After maybe a year, it's still leak free. And the tiny rust bubbles, frankly I used the Re-Rack bottle for painting the rusted racks--and a year later, it's fine. That stuff is made to stand up to water and heat. I waited 24 hrs in between each layer of paint, maybe 4 layers total on 4 small bubbles.

Motor-----not exactly GE's best---Without any removal of the motor/pump/arm, you can nevertheless just drop the base of the motor off and get a few NEEDED drops of oil into the lower sleeve bearing. That's what seems to have saved mine. If you do choose to completely remove the arm and motor, then you also have access to the top bearing for oiling.

I use mine weekly, jammed full. It's loud and uninsulated and does a fantastic job.
 
JB Weld

Original Cold Weld Formula, steel reinforced epoxy, search under METAL button

Mine went on the inside of the tub, filled thru to the outside(thru the rust hole) near the motor. I "shaped" it with a scrap of a paint stir stick in 2 minutes, then let it harden 24 hours before water testing. Easy and worked well. That was the only rusted thru hole. My 2 or 3 little "Bubbled" Plastisol got covered with numerous layers of ReRack, per the instructions. Again, no more leaks after a year of use.

Ebay RERACK, you'll find it, small bottles. Use it coat by coat and TIGHTEN that lid inbetween, it'll harden up in the bottle really quick.

Seperate issue: Can you read or photo the model #tag? If it's around 10 or more Amps, then you have the routine style that heats the water for the main wash(simply turns on the calrod) and maybe a rinse or two. If you're at only 6 amps listed, then you need your tank up to at least 140 or more.

My Mobile Maid 1966 with Power Shower is GREAT
 
well

Mine had a bubbled area with a 1/8" hole in the center. I barely sanded, just got JB all over it and into the hole and contoured it so there wasn't a spot for a single drop of water to stay. And when the putty pushed thru the hole, I smoothed it around the hole to cover everything for about an inch. I will try to find old pics or take new ones. For me, it worked.

This is my ONLY Plastisol experience, other will chime in with more info. But JBWeld does wonders.
 
As One Ponders How To Approch This Situation

*LOL*

My Hotpoint top loading dishwasher give directions for fixing gauges and kicks by cleaning first with detergent, then a type of solvent, lightly sanding the Plastisol area, then finally applying the two substance epoxy mixture to cover.

Instead of purchasing endless sheets of sand paper got a brush for my drill. Over the weekend or even tomorrow if one has time will get at the rust area on the underside of the metal tub. Want to see how large the hole is and extensive to better know what one is dealing with and thus form a plan of action.

Thank you for all your assistance and suggestions! Please keep em coming Akronman. Have been reading over the archives on tub repair in particular Plastisol to get a better idea from those that have done this before.

Am very interested in a product called "Rust Bullet" that seems to work better than POR-15. But have not read up that much on how or why some feel that way. Do know from examples both here and given in other groups POR-15 can and may not always stop rust permanently. [this post was last edited: 7/18/2014-00:05]
 
Don't know if this will help you or not but I hope it does. Our hot-tub had a jet leak and all the water kept leaking out. The pool supply guy suggested JB Weld Marine Epoxy. I bought mine at Auto zone and kneeded it to fit and smoothed it out and everything sealed great. Have had no trouble in 2 years.
 
After laying down repair epoxy

*Caution, Slop Artist At Work*!

Epoxy proved a bit more sticky and more difficult to apply than one imagined. Rather like trying to fit chewing gum into crevices and smooth out onto surfaces. Still think one did well for a first attempt.

Will see how things look tomorrow or Monday after curing is done. According to package the stuff should set up in an hour and fully cure after about eight, but have other things to do tomorrow.

Cannot find fiberglass sheets locally other than what are sold in those tub and sink repair kits. Very over priced IMHO for what one gets so will pop into Homeless Depot during the week or perhaps order from online/eBay. Will use that material when dealing with the hole on the metal underside of the tank. Before attempting that repair want to see if the inner tub work is satisfactory. For one see no reason to patch the outer metal until one is sure the inner tank is water tight. If it is then the outer tub can wait as in theory no water should continue to flow under the Plastisol to cause damage. Also want to investigate this Por-15 or Rust Bullet products you lot rave about. From limited research however neither should be used indoors for the fumes that are given off so that may be me for you.

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I don't think you'll need fiberglass to repair the hole in your dishwasher. One of my dishwashers was repaired from the exterior by the previous owner with fiberglass and it did more damage than good as it kept the water between the fiberglass sheet and the metal... The bubbling from the rust pushed on it until the resin wouldn't stick to the metal anymore. I just removed it, did a minor repair from inside and it's fine now. And the hole was much bigger than the one in your dishwasher!

 

Almost any kind of filler and fiberglass, when used to repair a car tends to hold not so well. I've been told many reasons why it doesn't hold well, some say because it's acidic, I think it's because it doesn't expand at the same rate as the metal it holds to but what I know is that it eventually cracks and let water go behind. That's not happening when you have an all-fiberglass structure.

 

To repair cars, where they cannot be easily welded (like around windshield posts), I had good results with some filler from France called Debrasel. It's very hard stuff and it sticks well to the metal. Of course, you need to have the surface correctly prepared and no rust remaining when you applied.

However, the product is very expensive and I wouldn't recommend buying a can of that just to fix a small hole like that. I think the epoxy you used should do well, if you need, you can apply tape under the machine to hold the epoxy in place while it's curing if the hole is too large. 
 
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