Frigidaire Gallery Series Washer

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Ultramatic

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After taking a breather, I'm baaaaack. And this is the culprit, A Frigidaire Gallery MOD. FWS777GH50 Serial: XC10516208. I am guessing Jan. 2001 manufacture. Another basement find. Seems to work, BUT when filling, about halfway in the tub, it starts to leak, a lot. I spinned out the water and removed the front cover. The leak appears to come from directly under the tub seal. The worst possible scenario.

 





 



 

 
 
That does seem like a relatively easy repair to do on the machine provided you line everything up correctly and follow the proper procedures.

 
 
Leaking Main Seal On A WCI- Frigidaire TL Washer

Yes it is fixable, BUT why would you ?

 

We never fix this problem for our customers unless the washer is part of a more expensive stack W&D and even then 90% of people replace the whole thing because they know its junk.

 

Overall this washer design is rather trouble prone, the seal leak is just one of many serious problems these machines experience. We see a lot of transmission oil leaks, also lower trans bearing and one way clutches, bad motors, timers and problems with lid locks to name a few of the more common problems.

 

These washers are poor at turn over and capacity for the amount of water used, while still being very on clothing. About the only thing good about this one is at least it is the later design with neutral drain, these machines with spin drain were real dogs as the pump would air-lock and suds-lock and often struggle for 10 minutes while trying to do the final spin and WCIs solution was to make the final spin 16 minutes long LOL.
 
 

 

Well John I look at these repairs as a learning experience. It's a cheap, easy fix and I'm not keeping it, so why not. As far as I can tell, this is the only issue it has. That's not bad for a 14 year old washer. To  be honest, I get a kick putting something back into service.
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yeah, may not be THE best choice for a machine, but I have to agree, I would do it for the experience and something fun to play with for a while, it is a traditional machine with full water levels, and it did survive 14 years of use.....that has to say something for it......

besides, its lasted a lot longer than most Cabrios, and have you priced seals and bearings for one of those.....not to mention the teardown, and special tool?...
 
I wonder how easy that repair would be on a 14 year old machine that did not look like new; that had corrosion of the metal parts, mineral buildup that would have to be cleaned up to ensure a good seal on the new parts, etc. I realize that they would show the repair done on a clean machine, but it sure is not preparing most people for what they would find when they went into a typical machine. And, usually, when a tub seal leaks there is rust, corrosion and other damage below it that has to be replaced because often, the leaks start small and the machine is used until the big gush takes them out of service.

Why is the pressure switch hose attached to the tub ring? When it was removed, I did not see anything like an air dome to which most pressure switch hoses attach lower down on the outer tub.
 
 
Appears the pressure hose anchors to a clip on the tub ring for stability purposes on its way down to the air dome on side of the tub.  The hose must be detached from the tub ring so the ring can be removed for the repair.
 
 

 

Obviously, if the machine looked like a basket case it never would had made it out of the basement. As you can see, the transmission housing is rusty. But it appears to be just surface rust. Everything else seems fine. According to the parts diagram, the pressure switch hose is where it's supposed to be. We'll soon find out what happens on it's maiden wash. Stay tuned.

[this post was last edited: 6/6/2015-12:46]
 
Leaking Main Seal On A WCI- Frigidaire TL Washer

Hi Louie, I do agree with your reasoning about fixing this machine. Jason and I have fixed many machines that we knew were not really worth fixing for the experience. By doing this we can give first hand advice to customers about the feasibility of doing certain major repairs.

 

The problem for us is that we guarantee every used appliance for a full year parts and labor with in home service, AND when I consider whether I should fix and resell a machine my goal is that it should last an average of ten years or more, so it does not make sense to put even an hour of labor into a machine that probably won't last more than a few years.

 

Let us know how it comes out.

 

John L.
 
 

 

 

Does anyone know how to remove this cap? Does it pop off or screw off? I don't want to force it.

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drill it out....and use one of those reverse screw gadgets, may be even apply some heat.....and that bolt should come right out....

give it whirl....can't do much more damage....
 
 

 

John, I'm not looking at this as a business, but as a learning experience.

 

I think I twisted the bolt the wrong way and snapped it. In theory, once the head of the bolt is gone, the agitator should lift out. From what I have read, there is nothing else retaining the agitator. I'm going to pour some very hot water in the tub to see it that helps.
 
Despite the experiences some have had with these WCI-Frigidaires, it's actually one of my favorite designs, solely because of the one my aunt owns. Bought in '99, it's been running anywhere from once to three or four times a day with two adults and four kids, now three kids and one grandchild. The one and only problem she has had was two years ago, when the pressure sensor tube popped off the tub and it overfilled. Other than that, it's still running perfectly, and does a great job. Robin is pretty particular with her clothes but doesn't invest as much time as I or others here do when it comes to pretreating and soaking stains, but their clothes always look clean and smell fresh. One of my favorite memories growing up was going to their house and smelling the scent of Gain in the air and hearing the whirr-woo-whirr-woo of that Franklin transmission.

I say fix it if you can and clean it up nicely. It's a fine machine when treated properly and loaded correctly. The build quality is leaps and bounds better than what's on the market today in top loaders.
 
 

 

Now I need to replace a part that went under the agitator. While removing the agitator this disc snapped out, breaking the tabs that held it to the agitator. I read that it's no big deal, since the agitator screw is what secures it to the shaft. Nevertheless, it needs to be replaced since the center ring is badly corroded. Can I replace this part only?

 



 
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