Frigidaire self cleaning range

[combo52]

Good Work Phil

These ranges actually have a thermistor for the oven temperature sensor, GE and several other early self-cleaning ovens also used this King-Sealy system. The thermistor is in a circuit with a hot wire relay,  a pot and a 12 volt transformer [ no bi-metal type switch ] which switches the heat on and off in the oven, these KS systems worked very well when they worked properly, but it was expensive to build and could be troublesome as they aged.

 

[philr]

 

Matt,

In fact it was in a very nice neighborhood next to Miller Rd east of the I-75.  The seller told me to drive down the street to Parkside Dr. as there were some nice houses from former GM execs around there. He was right, these are the kind of houses that just don't exist around where I live!

 

I also drove to Flint in 2003 for the Buick centennial. I went there with my '67 Riviera and had a great time there.  I still have that car and another Flint-built Buick.

 

This picture was taken next to the Flint Cultural Center, this space where my car was parked on the grass is now a parking lot. The street on my right was Crapo street. It was named after William Crapo Durant who happened to be the founder of Frigidaire!

 

[this post was last edited: 9/25/2015-01:29]

http://https//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_C._Durant

 

[philr]

John, you're right, I got mixed up reading all these Tech Talk manuals, it's not the sensor in the oven but the oven switch that has those bi-metal switches (if I understood what I read correctly!). I guess I got mixed up with the electric Heat-Minder sensors which have their bi-metals and heaters inside the sensor. But it wouldn't make sense to have bi-metals and heater wires inside the oven sensor! It's much too small to contain these parts!

 

I didn't disassemble any parts for other reasons than cleaning them (and mainly the control panel glass and the dials) and I didn't get too deep at inspecting the oven controls by fear of breaking something that was working! I managed to take two pictures of them (pictures 3-4)

 

[philr]

John, also, can you explain what causes two clicks when the bake element cycles off. At first, there's a louder click and a few seconds after another one and at the same as the second click, the oven pilot light dims. 

 

This series of clicks do remind me the noises of the electrical heat minder switches and sensors from the early 1960s. (in this case, you can hear one click in the sensor and another click in the infinite control). 

 

[ovrphil]

Durant

Not to break the subject of the stove, but PhilR...interesting read. Man was so successful for years and ended up bankrupt (overconfidence in the market).

I like a lot of the 67 model year cars...glad you still have yours.

Back to the stove subject now....

 

[mattl]

Park side Dr. That is the classic "old money " section of town. I bet there are lots of vintage appliances in that area.

My dad worked at Buick for 44 years, I remember all those great cars from the 60's - is your ''67 a boat back? Don't recall the year those were out.

Anyway glad you had a safe trip and got a great range, enjoy.

 

[philr]

The "boattails" are the 1971-73 models. A friend of mine has a 1972, also made in Flint.

 

[mikeinohio]

Similar stove

My Mom got it in the mid '60s. Been looking on line for info/parts/etc, but my model doesn't appear to exist. Mine (not in as nice condition as this one) appearance wise, differs in placement of the locking handle for cleaning. It's on the oven door above the handle.

Custom imperial model RCIE-39N

Speed heat burner doesn't work, nor the power outlet near control panel on right. Cleaning function doesn't work, and timer is fritzed. Everything else works fine.

Mike

 

[philr]

There is a circuit breaker for the power outlet. If I remember well, it's hidden under the right rear burner on my 1967 range. It probably is at same place on your mother's 1968. You might want to try to reset it.

The speed heat switch often causes problems, it could be easily converted to a regular infinite switch that's expensive but still available.

The timers can be rebuilt too. Or if it's the timer motor that failed, they are fairly easy to replace.

The self cleaning system changed in 1968, I don't know if it still used a second oven sensor like the 1967 and earlier models. What goes wrong with it? I know it doesn't use a separate timer like the 1967 self-cleaning system.

The Tender-Matic control was also gone in 1968.

 

[mikeinohio]

The oven doesn't heat up in cleaning mode . . .door latch latched, timer set to 4 hours, oven control pushed in and turned to clean. No cleaning light lit up, no heat produced.

Otherwise, both the baking element and broiler element work.

Your response is much appreciated
Mike

 

[philr]

Have you tried not to set the timer for the cleaning cycle? If you leave the "Meal Minder" control on "man" and set the thermostat on "Clean" (if it works like other newer models I have). Since you say the timer doesn't work, that might be the problem. My 1967 range has a separate timer for the self-cleaning function and the oven thermostat and clock/timer are not involved in the self-cleaning process. The 1968 models only have a "locked" light that comes on when the oven temperature gets above the oven's maximum operating temperature of 500°F.

 

[mikeinohio]

My control panel looks almost exactly like the ones up top in this thread. Almost thought the white one was mine.

It's the meal minder timer I was setting. Maybe that is the problem. I'll play with it tomorrow.

My locked light is under the oven controls.

Just tried locking it, leaving meal minder at manual, and then the push turn (both clockwise and counter clock wise) of the oven temperature control. Left it that way for a minute. Nothing. No light for locked and heating elements stayed cold.