Frigidaire WCI FL Stkable Washer-99 Dryer-98 Control Panel Removal

[capecodlaundry]

Have the a Frigidaire/WCI Gallery
WASHER: FWT449GFS1/XC91880435 04/99 on label April 1999 production date?
DRYER: FSE748GFS0/XD84554924 11/98 on label November 1998 production date?

Three problems seem to exist from most annoying to least annoying and two questions.

1. Dryer Start switch in front mounted control panel was sheared off by fat sis in law carelessly going up the attick stairs. Never offered to pay for repair bill or even say hey I messed up your dryer. Wouldn't have been bad if only the exterior knob broke instead, it sheared off the nylon actuator post at the switch with not even anything to grab with pliars to start the dryer. Funny how the nylon actuator post protected the exterior knob by breaking first THANK YOU MORON ENGINEERS!

I purchased a replacement switch part 134398300 says ELECTROLUX / WHITE WESTINGHOUSE/ KELVINATOR/ GIBSON/TAPPAN/PHILCO (are they even in buz any more? So a one size fits all switch from Sears Parts. It only has a metal tab sticking out of it and THANK YOU GOD no holes for screws. Why they can't use a little thing like a scrow is absurd--how is a bent tab supposed to securely hold that in the control panel sub assembly when it is the most used part of the DRYER! Engineers and cheap assed accountants pay attention how about using a few screws in these $1000 machines????

Anyway problem is how do you REMOVE THE CONTOL PANEL ASSEMBLY on this dryer so that you can even begin to see how to remove the old start switch and reinstall the new one and then have all the fun of bending the tabs so that with a PRAYER it will actually not be LOOSE in the control panel when you put it all back together. Stupidly there is no room to even work on it with just the top cover of the dryer removed which you had to use a putty knife to push in the left and right tab to release the cover again NO SCREWS front or back...too cheap to use a few screws here. DO we see a recurring problem? Also the wiring harness seems not to have any slack at all...so it looks like removing the connections and reinstalling them will also be freaking nightmare. Who needs the top mounting anyway the control panel should be more like the backsplash on top loaders and ranges!

2. Washer problem #1 intermittantly the soap DISPENSER DIVERTER valve DRIVEN by the 15" charming plastic PUSH ROD ATTACHED TO THE TIMER MOTOR does not seem to sispense the Bleach and/or Fabric softener. This does not happen all the time but more often after the washer has not been used for a month or so.

THere are settings on a pivot joint and markings with an arrow on the top of the water diverter assembly but I have no idea where it should be set. You can watch the acutator move when the timer is moved between cycles?

SO how do you set this yet another wis bang feature that fails to work reliabely on a continuous basis. Engineers how about a manifold and two solenoid operated valves instad of a plastic piece of well never mind!

SO how should this be adjusted when the standard setting in BY THE TRIANGLE WHICH I ASSUME MEANS THE NORMAL FACTORY SET POINT on the CAM PIVOT POINT.

3. Washer problem #2 intermittantly the timer motor seems to stop somewhere after the fist washes n spins portion of the REGULAR CYCLE...and all you hear is the doorlock solenoid buzzing noise. When I get up to manually move the timer knob a bit it continues but often it will stop again. Some times I need to do this about 4 times before it advances to the Final spin and completes an advances normally.

I read in some other post that there is a ELECTRONIC PCB that causes the timer motor to advance...HELLO ENGINEERS how about the TIMER MOTOR ADVANCES ITSELF w/o the help or more crap to malfunction. The Pulsematic and Unimatic that were actually reliable had none of this fun stuff. There only seems to be one other circuit board enclosed inside tarnslucent plastic in the bottom of the machine supposedly the motor contol PCB is that ONE LIKELY EXPENSIVE PCB also contain the timer actuator function?

Anyway it is intermittant and I have not tried out other cycles as it seems to be working for the moment.

4. Last question is the units are not currently stacked...if somebody wanted to stack them is there a conversion kit or a stand that inserts between the dryer and washer? Or do u just remove the top cover and put the dryer on top of the washer frame. Funny thing the cover to the washer is not even held on by any screws just clamps in the front and if you lift at the back you can easially remove and/or loosen the top cover w/o any problems at all. Maybe something was missing as we purchased these used and have no idea if they were stacked at one time or somebody serviced the washer and then lost the mounting brackets and SCREWS that were at the back to securely hold down the washer lid. I could see it coming loose if there ever was an unbalanced load?

5. Also does this model have that supid BRUSH MOTOR I have seen in other posts so that I will have that to look foward to...as a future FREE TIME KILLER...or CALL SOMEONE AN BREAK THE PIGGY BANK OUT FROM THE KIDS BEDROOM TIME?

So any ideas you guys have would be cool. Most importantly is the horrible design and lack of screws and how to remove the first problem the dryer control panel so the start switch can be removed/replaced.

Please note the following attached jpg pics to clarify or horrify any readers

Is there an easy way to upload multiple pics like craigslist i seem to only be able to add additional pics by replying to my first post is that RIGHT or am i LOOSING MY MIND?

 

[capecodlaundry]

START SWITCH PIC

POST PIC Notice the completely perfect (and easy to replace) control knob left undamaged while the start swtich assembly post sheared off and was ruined by the fat careless sis in law!

 

[capecodlaundry]

WASHER TIMER DIAL ON CONTROL PANEL

The timer motor INTERMITTANTLY fails to advance when in the REGULAR CYCLE rinces and spings. Other times it completes the load w/o any long delays or me having to push it along. Dont know if this happens in other cycles as I dont usually use them.

 

[capecodlaundry]

DISPENSER DIVERTER VALVE to CAM ADJUSTMENT

Also intermittantly the washer decides not to empty the bleach and/or fabric softener dispenser contents into the wash tub? And other times it works fine? Where should the adjustment switch be moved which is now at the TRIANGLE in the moddle of the OFFSET INDICATOR ON THE CAM at the uppor right...Also note the settings on the top of the dispenser in relation to the left side of the actual dispernser radial arm over the dispenser. PLEASE NOTE THE CURRENT POSITION is at the end of a cycle where the pointer is at the indicator to the left of the center dot of the b (bleach position) to the right you can see the C (fabric softener) position and center dot. Where should these be when in the Bleach and FABRIC SOFTENER position and when should it be in those positions with respect to the cycles on the control panel dial indicator? YOU can observe the little black plastic setting handle to move the arrow RIGHT OF TRIANGLE +1 +2 and to the LEFT OF TRIANGLE -1 -2 and -3?

 

[capecodlaundry]

DRYER MFG LABEL

IS the manufacture date 11-98 on this label? Want to make shure I am reading it correctly November 1998? Has same date format on the washer I think only 04-99 so I would guess April 1999. I thought these units were more like 2004 to 2005 though? But it is looking like they are 13+ year olds wow hope they have fewer hormone problems than the kids at that age.

 

[whirlcool]

To remove the control panel first you take the top off the machine. You use a putty knife between the control panel and the top to pop the latches.

Next when you look down upon the control panel you'll see the top screws holding the control panel on. First remove any wires that go to other components. When those are all free then remove the screws from the top of the control panel inside the dryer.
The control panel will now be free to remove.

While you are in there this would be a good time to vacuum the dryer out and check the condition of the drive belt.

Be very careful when doing this, the edges of the top and inside of the machine are very sharp. It doesn't take much to cut yourself here.

 

[capecodlaundry]

HOW DIFFICULT TO REPLACE DC MOTOR BRUSHES/ WASHER MFG LABEL

How can you tell if this Frigidarie has that annoying and constant maintenance requiring DC motor and its brushes? Also the Manufacturing Label off the Washer 04-99 so April 1999 production date? Thought it was more like 2004 or 2005 at the time?

 

[capecodlaundry]

CONTROL PANEL HARNESS CONNECTORS from REAR VIEW

Whirlcool thanks for the reply...it looks like it is easier to remove the wiring harness connectors at the terminal blocks...the back of the control panel seems to be like an old switchboard where lots of short connections run between components but only like 4 harness' seem to run off the CONTROL PANEL COMPONENTS (lots of interconnections)
...So I am thinking about just removing the wiring harness connectors at the terminal BLOCKS rather than from the individual components since you can't actually get in there anyway cuz there is relatively little room between the drum and the back of the control panel. There is one tie wrap that will need to be replaced so the harness does not touch the rotating drum.

Mounting screw on RIGHT SIDE OF CONTROL PANEL seems to be on the left side of the timer motor when viewed from the inside phillips screw...damn dont want to drop that screw and it is darn tight inside there...give me the top mounted control panel any DARN DAY LOL!!

HOw do you know if the belt needs to be replaced it seems tight and there is no squeaking noises like in a car.

 

[combo52]

Replacing Broken Dryer Start Switch

It is easy to replace this sw once you remove the dryers top as described above by Allen, you do not need the remove the control panel, the SS just snaps in from behind.

 

Yes this washer still has a DC type brush style motor, the maker [ WCI ] does not consider the brushes replaceable, instead you replace the motor if you have a failure. I have seen very few of these motors fail, the main problem areas on these early [ pre 2000 ] WCI built Front Load washers were bad door locks, bad drain pumps or items caught in them, broken tub support spiders and failed main bearings. The last two failures are basically the end of the machines life as the cost of fixing either really does cost as much as a new similar washer.

 

[capecodlaundry]

Start Switch INstall and photo from FRONT of DRYER

Thanks John (combo52), that was amazing there was hardly enough room for me to get my hands between the drum and the control panel...then you have to figure out that to get the start swtich out you must rotate it to the RIGHT (ClockWise viewed from the FRONT of the Machine) the two locking tabs then move vertically at 12 and 6 o'clock, which is when you can pull the switch assembly (out of the control panel mounting bracket) towards the back of the dryer gently and remove it. Nice! Install the two wire harness connectors on the new switch. To put the new switch in you insert its tabs (into the control panel mounting bracket) in the same 12 and 6 o'clock positon then turn it to the LEFT (Counter Clockwise viewed from the FRONT of the Machine) Make certain it snaps in place at the farthest point---otherwise it will be loose. Interesting that the normal operation of the switch forces the switch attachment clockwise TOWARDS the unlock position. Better tell everybody to be gentle with the start switch especially when it reaches the end limit of its clockwise movement!

Wow spider and main bearing problems more poor WCI engineering and were they also produced in China? I can wait for these issues...how soon did people start seeing these problems with the washers?

Any ideas on dispenser diverter valve adjustment, conversion to stackable configuration, and intermittant timer motor stops on the matching washer; 3 other problems in the first post?

 

[combo52]

Problems

David glad you got the start Sw installed. I have never had problems with the mechanical dispensers on these early small door Frigidaire built FL washers so I am not sure what to suggest without examining your washer. The stopping in mid cycle could be caused by the machine not filling properly for rinse periods, bad door lock, faulty timer or even the motor control board, again I would need to examine your washer to make a firm assessment.

 

To stack these machines you remove the washers top and install four mounting clips, the rear two are the ones that held the washer top in place at the rear and you have to buy the front two clips from Frigidaire.

 

Their was very little of this washer that was made in China, the cast aluminum spider was on the thin side on the small door FFL washers, sometimes these spiders brook in as little as three years and many will probably not break in thirdly, it all depends on how you use the machine. Using too little detergent, using mostly cold water, using no chlorine bleach and having a stinky washer will almost always lead to corrosion of the spider and early failure.

 

[capecodlaundry]

Washer Cover Mounting Clips on my FL / Dispenser Adj

John,
Wow I dont even have rear mounting clips (WILL INCLUDE PIC of FRONT and REAR CLIPS--front looks OK to ME and hooks into the front edge) for the cover to the FL washer? I just lift up the cover and it comes up w/o any problem at all. SO I dont think I have all the RIGHT STUFF on the rear of the washer. Do you have any graphic of what they look like. I treid to order whatever holds the top cover in place from Sears a while ago and NEITHER THEY OR I could figure out exactly what part to order to do that? ARe these clips LIKE THE DRYER FRONT CLIPS that need to be pushed in with a putty knife to release or what?

THE CURRENT WASHER FRONT CLIPS (are horizontal) dont look like they would work for stacking as you would have to push the dryer towards the rear (for them to engage) rather than just setting the dryer on top and having the clips attach to the dryer from a VERTICAL POSITION. SO check these pics out and see what you think?

I have pevious pics and narrative of the adjustment lever to the DISPERNSER DIVERTER VALVE assembly...the cam n push ROD MOVES JUST FINE but ocassionally the FAB SOFT and sometimes the BLEACH dont empty their contents....usually when it has not been used for 4 weeks or so. I am JUST GUESSING THE CURRENT ADJUSTMENT MAY BE MARGINALLY allowing the water to flow from the diverter valve but sometiems NOT.

Humm how nice that the washer deteriorates in OPPOSITION TO ALL THE ENERGY STAR GUIDELINES for cooler water, less water, less detergent. I hardly ever see any suds at all in the wash window despite using 1/2 C of WISK or COLD POWER or WHAT HAVE YOU...I usually like the fragrance FREE MOST NATURAL CLEAR LIQUID SOAPS I CAN FIND....the DRY ONES are JUST A MESS to deal with spilling all over the place. I guess I will have to do a special BLEACH WASH and TURN OFF THE COLD WATER VAVLE CUS even when the SELECTOTR IS TO HOT/COLD there is sitll water running from the COLD water supply only less than when set to warm if that makes any sense...or they were just fooling us again an the HOT is really only WARM cuz they get better energy STAR ratings that way.

THE GOVT should stay out of the WASHROOM LAUNDRY. There was a discussion on the Euro site about a RUSSIAN WASHER I THINK A NEW PRESENT DAY MODEL and they were all taking about the SELF HEATING WASHERS dont even come near to 60 DEG C as indicated on the control panel more like 40degC which supposedly was for WARM...anyway how about more water used and cleaner no bad breath FL WASHERS...

NOTE PIC OF REAR CLIP with this POST the FRONT CLIP FOLLOWS.

 

[capecodlaundry]

FRONT washer cover CLIP

John and/or everyone,

Here is what I have for the front washer clip...there is nothing for the rear washer clips that I have to attach to...so let me know what diagram shows CLEARLY what should be there holding the WASHER TOP clearly and SECURELY in PlACE.?

 

[combo52]

Dryer mounting clips

You have the correct clips now for attaching the dryer to the top of the washer, the rear ones are correct position as are the front clips, the front ones are bent however, they should be pointing straight up.

 

Your 1999 Frigidaire built FL washer should fill with all hot water if set on hot.

 

[whirlcool]

Glad you were able to fix your dryer. Did you find much lint in there?

Another thing you may want to consider is to remove the drum (it lifts out) and clean the main drum bearing and apply new high temp grease to the bearing and bearing socket. I repaired a similar dryer a few months ago and after renewing the bearing socket grease the dryer was very quiet during operation.

 

[capecodlaundry]

What rear clips do I need to attach the top cover?

John,
Wow that is completley strange that the current clips are correct for mounting the dryer on top? At the moment though it is supposed to be just attaching the top cover of the washer? But the rear does not attach securely at all? Do they need to be repositioned to lock down the rear of the top cover?

I was not ready to make them top mount yet.

On the dryer lint and drum bearing lubrication?

There was not a lot of lint inside the dryer I have not vacuumed it yet? I don't know if I am up to removing the dryer drum though. I guess Id have to go deep inside and take off the belt from the drive motor etc? DO you have any pics of when you took the dryer drum an lubricated the bearings on your Frigidiare FL dryer pre 2000?

 

[whirlcool]

First you open the access panel on the lower part of the rear panel. Then you'll see the pulley's and the belt. Just move the top pulley in the opposite direction of which it is in. It will retract back while you hold it. Make a note of the pattern with which the belt runs through the pulleys. Now with the top pulley moved and you holding it back, just pull the belt out of the pulleys. Then stand up and go to the front of the dryer. Grab the drum front and back and lift straight up. It'll come out very easily. You'll probably have to loosen the front panel and pull it out a little so the drum can clear the front door opening panel & plastic bearing. When reinstalling the drum, put the drum on the rear bearing first then push the front of the dryer in to engage the drum. Easy!

While you have the drum out, look at the belt for any cracks or threads sticking out.
If you see any, replace the belt.