GE Monitor fridge help please?

[perc-o-prince]

Hey all,

Another project I've been meaning to get to, and now that I'm getting to it, it's not exactly what I thought it was gonna be! This fridge ran great for a couple of years, but when we went to plug it in two years ago, it went BZZZZT and there were little sparks coming out of where the cord enters the back.

I figured it would be a fairly simple cord replacement. Replace the old with the new, splice in the additional power plug for the light in the food compartment, and be done with it. Nope! Can someone tell me how to access the area I need to get to so I can put the new cord on? I see where it goes in the back, but then there's no trace of how to get in there except for a panel that's screwed to the roof of the food area (thereby on the bottom of the top part of the unit, or, the works area).

I'm hoping someone here might just know!

I've also shown where the refrigerant tubes enter the food area. A cowl appears to be missing, and there's a third tube on the right of the ice area where the cowl slid down. Were these just to stabilize the tubes so they wouldn't rub?

Thanks,
Chuck
p.s.- Does this thing REALLY pull between just 2.2 and 3.8 amps? That would explain why the cord appears to be about 16 gauge.

 

[perc-o-prince]

ID please!

 

[perc-o-prince]

The plate I was talking about. It can be accessed from the food area, but is part of the top half of the unit.

 

[perc-o-prince]

Where the cord enters. The wood spoon is just there so the camera would lock on to focus in the lower light.

 

[perc-o-prince]

And the lines/cowls.

 

[rp2813]

If Travis doesn't see this thread, I suggest e-mailing him directly. I have a feeling he will know what you need to do. That is a strange arrangement.

Also, have you tried to access that bumped up area behind the wooden spoon? Does the cap come off? It looks suspiciously like the oil heater element is inside there. If it is, you should check to see if it's heating up before you run the machine if it's been sitting for a couple of years. You can pull it out to test it once you have the new line cord connected. The original types are ceramic and look like a long stick of chalk with a couple of wires coming out. If it heats, fine, if not, I don't know if the GE part is available anymore that could be used as a replacement. If your element is OK, Travis can advise on whether you should allow the oil to heat up for a while before turning the machine on.

I have always liked that model of monitor top. I hope you can get it up and running again without too much trouble.

Ralph

 

[travis]

I believe you remove that square plate under the unit to access the wiring. That would also allow you to get behind the control if needed. Be careful not to break the bellows tube from the control to the evaporator in removing the plate.

If I were doing this, I would remove the lift the top off the cabinet and lay it on it's back. Before anyone chimes in here, yes, you can lay them on their side or upside down for that matter. Just don't run them in any position other than upright like on a cabinet. Then unclamp the bellows tube from the evaporator. Remove the access plate. Rewire the top. Put it back together.

The round plug with the screw in the back is where you charge them.

Oil heaters are in the DR or CA series only and not applicable here

 

[perc-o-prince]

HEY TRAVIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I removed the panel, and the cord that seems to be a power cord disappears behind a wood wall within the insulation. The AC cord that comes in the back seems to be attached about where the blue blob was drawn. It seems they're not attached to each other. Possibly attached to a hub somewhere?

Any ideas???

Help very much appreciated!

Chuck

 

[perc-o-prince]

From manipulating the cord, it seems to attach right about where the blue is (inside the metal enclosure, of course).