GE P*7 range issues

[xraytech]

Well today I got to testing out my 1967 P*7 range. Overall things went well. All the regular burners worked, as did the fluorescent light and the oven was only 50 degrees slow.

Now to the issues, the sensi-temp burner did not work at all, and the timer and clock are non functioning, also neither outlet worked, which is very important since my kitchen has only 1 outlet.

On to diagnosing the issues, I presume the sensi-temp burner needs replaced. And I'm thinking an appliance repair guy can re adjust the thermostat for the oven.
Now that brings me to needing suggestions for the clock timer and outlets

Any help is sppreciated

 

[moparwash]

Pull the oven know off and look on the back....there might be an adjustment screw for the temp like on my 1959..

 

[danemodsandy]

Sam:

Your Sensi-Temp issue is likely either the sensor (the round button in the center of the burner) or the responder, which is in the backguard of the range. John combo52 is the person to ask questions of; he also has some parts available. Since you're an upgraded member and so is he, I'd suggest private messaging him. Be patient - John's a busy guy. But he will get back to you.

You can probably get the oven working right on your own. If you'll pull the oven temperature knob off and look at the back of it, you'll see the little apparatus that allows you to compensate for some "drift" of the thermostat. A little picture is below. Your knob's back may not be identical, but the principle will be the same.

 

[sel8207]

sensi temp repair

Don't automatically assume the burner is bad just because it doesn't work. "Step by Step Repair Manual plus Preventive Maintenance for General Electric/Hotpoint Ranges" (manual) gives a sequential check out procedure for Sensi Temp Repair. It is a General Electric manual (orange in color); they are very common and available for about five dollars on ebay. 2. Also on this site, they have repair manuals for download. I think the one you're looking for is General Electric Range/Oven Technical data Manual for $5.17. Even though it's printed in 1964, it covers the logic behind the operation and repair of sensi temp units. I have the same problem (sensi temp) with my 1960 g.e. range, and it's also missing an oven gasket. (pending projects for me). Good luck to you. Les

 

[tomturbomatic]

Somewhere, usually behind the left rear 6" element, but possibly behind some other hiding place, you will find a fuse. The fuse protects the outlets. It would keep them from working if it is blown. I suspect the wiring for the 115 volt circuits is OK since the fluorescent light works. I would imagine that the oven lights work also.

The clock might respond to some solvent to dissolve the shellac that the original lubricant oxidizes into. I usually remove the motor first and try to get it going by spraying the solvent like WD-40 into the motor then applying current. If the motor can be made to work, then freeing the clock mechanism is the next step. These clocks are exposed to heat, cooking vapors and dust. Eventually it gums up the clock.

 

[xraytech]

Ok, so today I removed the oven temp knob today, the bck of it is exactly like the picture above.
My question is how do you adjust it?

 

[danemodsandy]

Sam:

You hold the knob by the skirt; the skirt is the metal flange that the temperatures are printed on when you look at the knob from the front. Hold it so that the spring tab (the piece pointing upward in the photo I posted) is at the top.

Next, you use a small screwdriver to pry gently upwards on the spring tab to release it from the notches on the skirt. Turn the spring tab in the desired direction, one notch for every 10 degrees of compensation you need. Allow the spring tab to snap into the desired notch. Replace the knob on the control panel and see if the oven temp is correct, using an oven thermometer.

This will take some trial and error. Also, I would urge you to go to Automatic Ephemera and purchase the 1966 GE Range Owner's Manual. It's the closest year AE has to your range, almost identical to yours. You can download it at the link below for only $1.99:

Use and Care instructions for General Electric Ranges with P7 Self-Cleaning Ovens

Use and Care instructions for General Electric Ranges with P7 Self-Cleaning Ovens

www.automatice.org

 

[robinsondm]

Advice & resources

Clock/timer: You can try repairing it yourself, or you can send it off to be repaired. See posts #726304 and #726404 in this thread:

 

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?50194

 

Outlets: Try resetting the "fuse" (really a circuit breaker, probably) by pushing in that white plunger between the outlets.

 

Sensi-Temp: See Sandy (danemodsandy) and Les' (sel8207) advice. To my knowledge, the sensor is at fault more often than the responder. Also, be sure to use a flat-bottomed, reasonably thick pan when you test the Sensi-Temp burner.

 

If you're electrically handy, the technical manual mentioned by Les probably has all the information you need to troubleshoot the Sensi-Temp and outlet problems. You can also try to get help and/or parts from John (combo52) as Sandy mentioned.

 

Good luck!

 

Dean

 

[xraytech]

Well, I was able to get the oven adjusted tonight, I had a nearly 100 degree difference and had to turn the dial well past the notches to get the temp set.

With the outlets, I have hit the reset button with a tester it shows there is current going to the timed outlet but not the regular outlet. I know I cant use the timed one because of the timer not functioning.
So do you guys think that it is a fuse blown for that outlet then?

When I tried the burners the first time I used no pan on them, tried the sensi-temp again with a pan, and still no heat at all on any of the 3 burner sizes. I know this is beyond my ability to address so I shall call an appliance repair man to look at it, hopefully if I need parts if he doesn't have them someone here could help me out with parts.

 

[danemodsandy]

Sam:

You might do better to get with John about your Sensi-Temp unit - unless you know a very unusual repairman, you're going to get told: "That's old. You can't get parts for it. You need to get a new range." And you'll be paying for a service call to hear this nonsense, into the bargain.

You can use the timed outlet on your range; it just can't be time-controlled until you fix the clock/timer unit. To make the outlet "live," turn both the time-set knobs on the timer unit until they "snap." Push each knob in, turn until you hear a "snap" and the knob pops out. The outlet should be live after that.

 

[xraytech]

I'll give that a try with the timed settings tomorrow.

Another thing I thought of, the reset button for the fuse, after pushed does the button come back out or stay depressed? Mine stayed depressed and am wondering if that may be the problem. If so wwhat can I do with it.

As for the sensi-temp burner, I am NOT able to attempt that repair, There is a local appliance repair guy that's been in business a long time. If nothing else he can inform me of what I need and I can try to locate it

 

[rp2813]

Sam, if you manage to get to the clock, post a picture so I can determine whether or not it's a Telechron.

 

[robinsondm]

Telechron rotor

Ralph,

Yes, this clock/timer uses a Telechron rotor. I posted a link to a thread above that covers some repair options (both self-repair and third-party mail-in repair options).

Dean

 

[xraytech]

Sandy, I tried what you said with the start and stop timer , but the timed outlet still doesn't work.

I had pressed the fuse reset button, it went in and stayed in, is it supposed to stay depressed or does it pop out when you let go?

 

[danemodsandy]

Fuse Reset:

Sam, I don't know the answer to your question for sure, because my '72 J 370 does not use that kind of fuse setup - it has glass fuses.

Typically, reset buttons pop out when they are tripped, and are pushed in to reset.

I would suggest looking for glass fuses as well; it may be that GE used both a reset button and glass fuses on your range. On GE's of this era, the fuses are under the cooktop. Your best bet is under the left rear burner; the '66 owner's manual describes it as being under that one. Lift the burner and remove the burner bowl, then the trim ring. Look down into the burner box below the cooktop, sort of behind the burner opening, over in the corner of the burner box (the burner box is the entire area beneath the cooktop). You should see a metal panel marked "LIFT FOR FUSE" back there. If you do, lift it up from the bottom (it sort of swings up) and check the fuses.

I wish I could be of more help here. P.S.: If you have a blown fuse, one of the major things it disables is the clock/timer unit, so your clock/timer issues could be traceable to that. [this post was last edited: 4/26/2014-21:19]

 

[rp2813]

Dean, the rotor repair you described in the linked thread is pretty much standard operating procedure.  The only thing I would add to the process is cooking the rotor, gear-side-up, for about 30 minutes on top of a light bulb (it's hard to balance and level, but you can get it pretty close) before adding the oil.  3-in-1 oil with the blue band is recommended. 

 

Immediately after the bulb is shut off and the rotor begins to cool (leave it on top of the bulb), add oil to the pinion gear area a couple of drops at a time and you'll see it get sucked inside.  Wait for the rotor to take the oil in, then add more.  About 15 to 20 drops total should do the trick.  Don't overdo it.  Too much oil will bog down the rotor and make it run slow.  It may take more than one heating period to accomplish this if the rotor stops taking the oil in.

 

Sam, I'm guessing the re-set button should pop back out.  In the pictures of Dean's stove, it's sticking out.  Maybe that's why you're having trouble with the outlet.

 

[ovrphil]

what a cool, beautiful stove - love it!

I couldn't wait for an outcome to shoot off my opinion..sorry, I know you're in the midst of addressing problems, which will be resolved via the good people here.

Hope it beats your expectations in use - it's already a helluva looker.

Phil