GE Pair -- Free Local Pick-Up

[DADoES]

Giver-awayer says both run. Washer has a tub leak (apparently minor enough to still use the machine), doesn't stop spinning when lid is opened, and sometimes doesn't spin very well on low speed. Dryer squeals, assume bad bearings or drum glides.

Washer front is ajar from her husband having a look for the leak.

Opinions as to whether they're worth saving/fixing?

 

[mayken4now]

No TRASH that crap. My .02 cents.

Steve

 

[appnut]

NOOOOO!!!!

 

[exploder321]

Trash

 

[westytoploader]

EEEEEEEK! POS!!!!

 

[DADoES]

Awwww, not even for fun? For free? (other than a bit of gas to fetch them)

Hey, I paid $135 for a 5- to 6 year-old Calypso which seems to be doing OK (uhhh, after replacing the motor controller board, LOL).

Rebuilt the free Neppy dryer (which came from the same area).

Seems I do better with "modern" stuff than vintage. The 906 & WO-65 may be lost causes. :-(

 

[tbolt25]

junk plastic GE!

Junk! Junk! Junk! Plastic! Plastic! Plastic! I say get rid of that plastic GE crap!

 

[westytoploader]

The 906 & WO-65 may be lost causes.

That means it's time for a fix-in! ;-)

I'm sure Ace would have suitable replacements for those pump cover screws since it will probably come to drilling them out. What about the center seal in the 'Tag? I'm trying to remember what you said was leaking on it at the wash-in last October...

 

[mavei511]

GE ripoff

Bought a "never used" GE Profile in 2000 from a used washer rebuilder(a Whirlpool/Kenmore specialist).When it began having problems,I found out that the model and serial numbers had been removed because the machine had been assembled from three damaged machines and he(or someome) filed a damage claim with GE. GE consumer relations told me to DESTROY THE MACHINE and DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR IT because of this saying it should not have been fradulently resold and there would've been no way to get the correct parts. I did so and replaced it(with something non-GE of course).

 

[gansky1]

If there are problems with spinning and a "small" leak, it's probably coming from the main seal and the machine isn't worth the two hours of back-breaking work to get the tub out and IF the tranny seal is still intact, you'll only have to replace the tub seal. Out of the many, many machines I've picked up, worked on and resold, I can remember only a scant handful of these plastic GE's.

 

[DADoES]

That's what I conjectured about the slow spin. RJ was making arrangements to fetch them in the next couple days, I told him to tell her nada. The dryer might be doable, ala the Neppy, but she may not want to split the pair, and the Neppy is already done and on the premises.

 

[rp2813]

Run away fast! GE machines are absolute junk!

 

[DADoES]

However, I have to wonder ... how is changing the tub seal on a GE more difficult than pulling the tub to replace the bearing and seals on a Maytag 906?

 

[DADoES]

The GEs are coming. The giver-awayer had already advised to the Freecycle list that they're taken, and we didn't want to renege on the "deal."

 

[chromacolor]

I'm not "with it" on newer appliances, but GE's are junk now? That washer and dryer pair aren't very old are they? They look just like the ones I was looking at at Home Depot the other day. It sucks that they both have issues if they aren't that old. I remember tho, when my parents had a house built in the late 70's they got a new Speed Queen pair and the washer was pure junk. It broke down twice in like the first year.....

 

[DADoES]

Whelp, it's true, they're kinda icky, LOL. Not specifically because of being Plastic GE, but because they're .... kinda icky/dirty.

The dryer door liner is worn down to bare metal on one side. Don't figure how that happened. Musta been rode pretty hard. Haven't yet run it to check the squeal.

The washer is dirty (basket, softener cup, agitator). There's a ring of hard water deposits around the top of the basket (scrapes off with a fingernail). Appears somebody sat on the lid and smushed it from convex to concave, but I popped it back (or is it supposed to be *flat*?). The agitator is kinda loose (the entire base, not just the auger). It does run and the lid switch seems OK so I don't know what she meant about spin not stopping when the lid is opened. Lack of spin on slow speed appears to be a belt problem, loose or worn (or maybe slick from the water leak or an oil leak??). The motor runs but not enough pull to get it spinning on low speed. It reaches full speed OK on high.

Interesting ... the lid switch stops the main drive motor during spin but the pump motor keeps running.

 

[exploder321]

Curious if they are easy fixes

 

[appnut]

Glenn bite your tongue re 906 & WO65 lost causes!!

 

[gansky1]

GE used a die-cast aluminum hub and tub nut which corrode and make it all but a lost cause to remove in many cases. (the hard water ring in the basket doesn't sound good for what's coming under that agitator) The agitator hub is a plastic "cup" bolted to the low-post agitator shaft and the agitator is snapped down onto that cup. You should be able to yank on the agitator base and remove it fairly easily. (Famous last words!) then you'll be able to see how it's assembled underneath. You should be able to see evidence of the water leak under the tub - follow the "trail" back to it's origin. If there's any evidence of oil spraying around under the tub, run screaming away from this washer, it's done for.

The difference in the GE construction and Maytag's is that Maytag utilized an air bubble under the agitator to keep water away from the agitator shaft and seals. GE doesn't do this so those parts are more prone to corrosion. Planned obsolecence.