GE Washers Exploding

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The spin cycle's heard through the house
The agitation ain't even quiet as a mouse
Unbalanced loads make 'er movin' 'cross the floor
Agitation, then spinnin' with a mighty roar
Goodness gracious, explodin' GE washers

The washers are blowin' up like dynamite
My laundry room's a terrible site
How unsafe, what a waste
Goodness gracious, explodin' GE washers

Fill it, baby
Load it up good
Start it up baby, yeah
You gotta work her and get her to do like a Filter-Flo should
I'm unkind, outta my mind
Gotta overwork her to death though she's a tickin' mine

They're playin' frisbee with the lint filter in the yard
Gotta 'nuther big load, gonna work 'er hard
She's my baby, I overload her crazy
Goodness gracious, explodin' GE washers

Let me overwork her and still do what a Filter-Flo should
I'm unkind, outta my mind
That washer is a tickin' mine, mine, mine, mine

Tisket, tasket
Piles o' blue jeans in the mini basket
What happens next?, I ask it
Goodness gracious, explodin' GE washers
 
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LOL!
"What happened?".......
"It broke!"
😄
Yep.

Most washers that explode seem to be either GE or Samsung, sometimes LG (but less commonly). Even seen Whirlpool VMAX’s and older Cabrios that have exploded (tho it’s rare).

The newer Samsungs do not explode. I’ve never seen a newer Samsung washer explode. The explosions of washers made in late 2016-present seem to mostly be GE. It seems to not be uncommon for the modern GE washers to explode (at least the fancy ones). I even see it in the reviews of some of the GE’s. The cheaper GE’s with the agitators don’t seem to do this.

I’d give credit to Samsung for patching the issue. Despite how much I don’t like Samsung for appliances, they’ve at least patched the explosion issue. I’m NEVER buying a fancy GE washer. If someone wants a fancy washer with all the bells and whistles, I always tell them to get either an LG or a Whirlpool (although I don’t like modern Whirlpools, the fancy Whirlpools are still better than most other fancy top loaders). At least the Whirlpools don’t usually explode. The new GE’s explode JUST as much as the older Samsungs!

I even see the new Profile units exploding

The modern GE’s also do NOT really rinse well. There’s no spin cycle between the wash and rinse cycles (even with extra rinse on). As a result, suds get stuck on the clothes. They are not good at rinsing. They only spin between the rinse on like the sanitize cycle or tub clean cycle.

The LG’s seem to be pretty reliable for top loaders if maintained well, there are reports of LG washer explosions, tho I don’t see it nearly as much as on older Samsung or GE units.

STEER CLEAR OF FANCY GE WASHERS!
 
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="whirlpool862, post: 1249008, member: 12127

STEER CLEAR OF FANCY GE WASHERS!

Yes, yes, I indubitably, even in the face of this fancy GE washer, here,—though, really: What makes you say that or think that we should????!!!!—definitely will…
 

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Exploding GE washer? Please. Veterans here will tell you the evils of GE filter flos walking across the floor and pulling their knotted cord out of the outlet. Oh the horror. :eek:
One of my friends had a GE Filter Flo washing machine that had its water pump lockup many years ago. The GE repairman told him that to prevent the replacement pump from locking up, he should get a hand grease pump with an Alemite fitting and regularly grease the water pump. My friend did, but he also swore that he would never buy another GE appliance because he didn't enjoy getting down on his hands and knees behind his washer every month. Most other brands don't seem to have this problem, even though they have no provision to be regreased.
 
One of my friends had a GE Filter Flo washing machine that had its water pump lockup many years ago. The GE repairman told him that to prevent the replacement pump from locking up, he should get a hand grease pump with an Alemite fitting and regularly grease the water pump. My friend did, but he also swore that he would never buy another GE appliance because he didn't enjoy getting down on his hands and knees behind his washer every month. Most other brands don't seem to have this problem, even though they have no provision to be regreased.

There was no need to oil that pump. The majority of filter flo washers go decades without needing any type of manual lubrication.
 
It wasn't oil, it was grease that the pump needed regularly. If it didn't need grease, then why was there an Alemite fitting on the pump, why did the original pump lockup, and why did the GE repairman tell my friend to regrease the replacement pump regularly?
 
It wasn't oil, it was grease that the pump needed regularly. If it didn't need grease, then why was there an Alemite fitting on the pump, why did the original pump lockup, and why did the GE repairman tell my friend to regrease the replacement pump regularly?

What year was the washer made? 1970s onwards the pumps did fine being left alone.
 
Ah, and here's a hotpoint/indeshit one from 2016

ad_196649627.jpg


https://metro.co.uk/2016/02/16/this...-blew-up-and-destroyed-their-kitchen-5686113/
Ruh-Roh!
 
No GE filter flow washer ever had a grease fitting on the pump.

If somebody was greasing the pump every month, they must’ve been pumping it into the weep hole, they had a pump that was bad. It should’ve just been replaced.

No automatic washer ever sold in the United States needed monthly maintenance, that’s just ridiculous.

John L
 
Monthly maintenance is way too excessive, however I can see one adding a couple drops of oil to the wick on the older 4 port pumps Whirlpool used every couple of years as a preventative measure though.
 
Monthly maintenance is way too excessive, however I can see one adding a couple drops of oil to the wick on the older 4 port pumps Whirlpool used every couple of years as a preventative measure though.
It's interesting to note that my Maytag A482, made in 1985ish, has never needed any "oiling" of its pump.
Surely, the previous owners of the house before me bought the Maytag set new, (I have the owners & installation manuals) and had a typical sized family with children, so that machine was used quite a bit.
And my 20 years here using it, hasn't given me any trouble at all.
In fact it's got its original belts still intact.
Of course, out of curiosity and being proactive, I've checked those machines out and found nothing to worry about.
 
It's interesting to note that my Maytag A482, made in 1985ish, has never needed any "oiling" of its pump.
It does extend the life of the pump by preventing the bronze bushings from seizing up due to lack of lubrication. There's even an oil port up front via a screw (early pumps used a flathead screw, later ones used a 5/16"). I oil mine every 5 years.

In the cutaway view, you can see the wicking felt that's use to hold and weep oil to the bushings.

It's getting difficult to find a genuine Maytag pump these days, I highly recommend giving it a shot of turbine oil.20251214_171015.jpg20251214_165640.jpg
 
It does extend the life of the pump by preventing the bronze bushings from seizing up due to lack of lubrication. There's even an oil port up front via a screw (early pumps used a flathead screw, later ones used a 5/16"). I oil mine every 5 years.

In the cutaway view, you can see the wicking felt that's use to hold and weep oil to the bushings.

It's getting difficult to find a genuine Maytag pump these days, I highly recommend giving it a shot of turbine oil.View attachment 321830View attachment 321831
So.. I gotta remove that screw first?
How bout those small holes near it on the casing?
 
Yes, remove the screw and use a Zoomspout turbine oiler. I always hold a paper towel underneath the port just in case it spills out, it will shoot back if you squeeze too much oil in too fast. You don't want oil all over the belts and pulleys.
Gotcha!
I've got some Zoomspout oil in fact!
EDIT:
Your'e right Dan!
I just took the front off and yes, it's got the flatblade screw in front.
I took my time and let the oil wick into the hole for a few minutes, done deal now.
I turned the pulley by hand a few times and it seemed free, no binding.
But boy was it a pain to get my ass back up off the floor.
I really never had a problem with draining, it always gushed out nice and fast into the utility sink.
Thanks for the tip sir.
 
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It's interesting to note that my Maytag A482, made in 1985ish, has never needed any "oiling" of its pump.
Surely, the previous owners of the house before me bought the Maytag set new, (I have the owners & installation manuals) and had a typical sized family with children, so that machine was used quite a bit.
And my 20 years here using it, hasn't given me any trouble at all.
In fact it's got its original belts still intact.
Of course, out of curiosity and being proactive, I've checked those machines out and found nothing to worry about.
When they got along in years, the old wet clutches on a Maytag slung enough oil to lube the idler on the dryer sitting next to them...!
 
When they got along in years, the old wet clutches on a Maytag slung enough oil to lube the idler on the dryer sitting next to them...!
Now THAT'S a real feat!

Last night when I performed the preventive "oiling" of the water pump bearing wick (thanks to qsd-dan), I inspected the insides for anything not right.
Asides from a bit of surface dust and some harmless splashing likely due to max-fill suds flinging over the tub-top during spin, the machine was bone dry of any oil flinging. - no visible rust that I could find.
The transmission looked tight and dry, bottom of outer tub solid, belts looked good, hoses all good, suspension springs like new, etc.
 
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A lot of these oiling ports are used at the point of production and meant to be sealed “for life.” If you want to pump oil or grease in there, that’s fine, but all the washers of my relatives went 20+ years with no oiling.
 
Exploding GE washer? Please. Veterans here will tell you the evils of GE filter flos walking across the floor and pulling their knotted cord out of the outlet. Oh the horror. :eek:
The Filter Flos definitely can walk across the floor when unbalanced, but they don’t literally destroy themselves like these new ones. The Filter Flos used spring suspension, so do the Speed Queens, that’s why you NEVER see any exploding Speed Queen. Washers didn’t explode when they had spring mount bottom suspension.

The hanging suspension system is known to be destructive, literally every brand can explode, GE’s, LG’s, Samsungs, and even some of the Whirlpools. I’ve seen the smaller balance ring six light VMWs that have borderline exploded in a review. The 3.8 to 3.9 cu ft VMWs with the small balance rings are none to suddenly violently shake after it gets up to full speed, tho they don’t usually seem to explode. Those units are known to suddenly rotate. The small balance ring design is a major issue that needs to be addressed on those VMW’s, it’s causing more off balance loads. The 3.8 to 3.9 cu ft units also make a horrible noise when they spin, not just the motor but they make this plasticy noise too. The 3.8 to 3.9 cu ft VMWs (e.g. WTW4955HW) are awful units. The older style six light VMWs (3.6 to 3.8 cu ft( with the bigger balance rings (e.g. WTW4900BW, WTW4950XW) weren’t as prone to off balance loads and spun more smoothly, they also didn't make the horrible plasticy noise on spin normally. If the bearings were good and it was level, all you heard was the motor and the pump.

Whirlpool made their balance rings smaller I think as an attempt to get customers to “load” their washers as much as they possibly can, as people want bigger capacity, so companies like Whirlpool just put smaller balance rings on their units to give the tub a bit more capacity.

Avoid any VMW that has the same balance ring style as the one in the image shown below. At least these don’t completely break the part when they suddenly turn violently on spin, while the GE’s usually do. This particular VMW Is notorious for violently turning during the spin cycle and putting a hole in the wall!

Every stainless steel drum VMW or VMAX unfortunately has the same balance ring style as the one in the image. Only the expensive commercial units have the older balance ring style!

Also, look at the other image to see what their small balance ring VMW did to their wall! This isn’t an isolated issue, this is a common issue with VMWs that have small balance rings.

The way you can tell if it has a small balance ring is pretty easy (except for the kenmores). If it has the colors w/soak, whites w/sock, and it has an option that says “deep water rinse”, then it has the smaller balance ring. Same for if it has a colors cycle, none of the six-light VMWs with proper balance rings have colors cycles. Some of the VMAX’s with the proper balance ring did, but not the VMW’s with it.

I’m actually liking the commercial Maytags (probably one of the only decent newer Maytag), but I hope those aren’t affected by the control board problem.
 

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Well said and I agree 100%. Given a choice I would never buy a washer with a hanging suspension. To me it is unconscionable. Hanging suspension are not safe, practical or realistic in a top load washer.

When a Speed Queen goes of balance the tub will simply thud the cabinet and the basket will never reach full speed. The washer will not self destruct. I know because this has happened to me. On the other hand, a hanging suspension washer will violently slam the cabinet faster and faster to the point the cabinet bends outward the the outer tub cracks. I know because the same thing has also happened to me twice on a Model T. Electronic controls sensing feedback can reduce the possibility of this happening, but clearly not by 100%.

Hanging suspensions are only popular because they make LARPing feasible the lowest capital cost.
 
Well said and I agree 100%. Given a choice I would never buy a washer with a hanging suspension. To me it is unconscionable. Hanging suspension are not safe, practical or realistic in a top load washer.

When a Speed Queen goes of balance the tub will simply thud the cabinet and the basket will never reach full speed. The washer will not self destruct. I know because this has happened to me. On the other hand, a hanging suspension washer will violently slam the cabinet faster and faster to the point the cabinet bends outward the the outer tub cracks. I know because the same thing has also happened to me twice on a Model T. Electronic controls sensing feedback can reduce the possibility of this happening, but clearly not by 100%.

Hanging suspensions are only popular because they make LARPing feasible the lowest capital cost.
Simple physics come into play here....... people have to take that into consideration....

The upper hanging suspension is transmitting all the out-of-balance weight and stress and delivering it to the TOP of the cabinet, so naturally the machine will wobble and shake more easily.

Now, my Maytag is "pivoted" at the center of the Bottom of the cabinet, at the Floor.
And the weight of the machine additionally keeps that area solidly stable, basically glued to the floor, which wouldn't be the case at the top of the cabinet.
 
Well said and I agree 100%. Given a choice I would never buy a washer with a hanging suspension. To me it is unconscionable. Hanging suspension are not safe, practical or realistic in a top load washer.

When a Speed Queen goes of balance the tub will simply thud the cabinet and the basket will never reach full speed. The washer will not self destruct. I know because this has happened to me. On the other hand, a hanging suspension washer will violently slam the cabinet faster and faster to the point the cabinet bends outward the the outer tub cracks. I know because the same thing has also happened to me twice on a Model T. Electronic controls sensing feedback can reduce the possibility of this happening, but clearly not by 100%.

Hanging suspensions are only popular because they make LARPing feasible the lowest capital cost.
The standard Speed Queens I don’t think have balance sensors. The TR ones do. The Speed Queens units usually just thud, they do walk a bit when off balance but they aren’t that aggressive when off balance usually, like they often don’t that much.
 
Well said and I agree 100%. Given a choice I would never buy a washer with a hanging suspension. To me it is unconscionable. Hanging suspension are not safe, practical or realistic in a top load washer.

When a Speed Queen goes of balance the tub will simply thud the cabinet and the basket will never reach full speed. The washer will not self destruct. I know because this has happened to me. On the other hand, a hanging suspension washer will violently slam the cabinet faster and faster to the point the cabinet bends outward the the outer tub cracks. I know because the same thing has also happened to me twice on a Model T. Electronic controls sensing feedback can reduce the possibility of this happening, but clearly not by 100%.

Hanging suspensions are only popular because they make LARPing feasible the lowest capital cost.
My VMW has a hanging suspension, but the VMWs of my generation with the proper balance ring didn’t explode, and it’s not a VMAX or first Ben Cabrio which seem more prone to exploding.

Hanging suspensions are not the best, I agree. They work fine on some of them, the more basic VMWs with the proper balance rings, or the cheaper GE’s with the agitators don’t explode. All the impeller GE’s seem prone.

Most of the exploding washers I’ve seen had an impeller, not the agitator, which makes me believe that adding an agitator is protective against explosions, not sure why.

The only agitator washers I’ve seen that exploded were the small balance ring style VMW’s with the six lights and the GE model-T’s.

The older agitator VMW’s weren’t even good at balance sensing (for ones with agitators), they didn’t explode but they pretty much destroyed themselves on the inside when the suspension was bad for a while. When porcelain tub style VMWs were shaking for a while, it would often cause issues. The top of the balance ring would often break and the bleach dispenser would often come off, the outer tubs would also often crack or break and sometimes inner drum. VMW’s are not good at balance sensing at all. They often shake violently and continue spinning even tho they do in fact have balance sensors, especially the porcelain tub ones and the 4.2 to 4.3 cu do models.

Those porcelain tub VMWs have the worst suspension rods of any VMW, especially the 3.4 model (which have the smaller balance ring) than the 3.5 to 3.6 ones. It seems like every WP that has the smaller balance ring is more prone to going off balance, tho the porcelain tub ones didn’t literally explode, they just kind of destroyed themselves on the inside if off balance for long enough. The older ones would get suspension problems within like 2-3 years.

Some manufacturers have prevented explosions by control controls sensing feedback, that’s what Samsung did in fact. None of their newer washers explode after they did that measure. All the Samsungs that exploded were the older ones. I mainly see the new GE’s exploding. Never seen the Mideas explode either, even tho the mideas are not even good machines.

I’ve seen people put bricks in Hydrowaves during spin cycle and it has blown up, and it blew the cabinet off. Those model-T’s and HydroWaves must especially be dangerous when they explode, as a big metal cabinet will just blew off and hit you if near it.

I’ve never seen an exploded washer in person yet, but that’s something that shouldn’t happen.

I look at the reviews for the discontinued GTW680, GTW750, and GTW500, and all of them have reviews about them exploding. High end GE washing machines aren’t safe!

No VMW is better than a direct drive, even the commercial ones. My favorite VMWs are probably the Maytag commercial units, the older VMWs were better than the newer ones. VMWs are one of the easier units to repair. Most of the parts on VMWs is pretty easy to replace, it’s easy to change a belt, actuator, motor, drain pump, lid lock, and others on those, the hardest job on a VMW is probably replacing the tub or the drive hub. The wash plates also tend to be hard to remove. Gearcase jobs and drive hub jobs seem to only really be the hard ones.

For those who are saying, Whirlpool is probably NEVER going to bring back their direct drive design. Sure, they might start to put stators on their most basic units eventually, but they won’t bring back the old school direct drive design. The last whirlpool direct drive was made in 2018. Whirlpool actually made direct drive stacks with H.E. agitators through 2017. The 2018-present stacks are VMWs, I would never buy one of those, they are likely hard to repair due to their weight, the washers on those aren’t front serviceable, meaning you have to tilt the stack over and make sure it doesn’t hit the ceiling, which must be a nightmare to fix.

I love the WP direct drives, I especially like the Maytag ones with the stainless drums. DD’s are my favorite washer platform, although I also really like the Whirlpool belt drives (not referring to VMWs, but the pre-1986 ones), Newton built Maytags, GE Filter Flos, and the older Speed Queens. The Norgetags and Amanatags weren’t as good.

The older Samsungs had a massive rust problem around the bleach dispenser, the metal around it would often rust out and deteriorate.

Although the older VMWs were decently reliable if maintained right, they still were not necessarily built the best. The ones with the stainless drum and proper balance ring (like mine) had much less issues with the suspension than the ones that had the porcelain drum. They never exploded in a dangerous way, and if fixed shortly after suspension rods went bad, no damage happened on the machine. These newer GE’s are literally blowing up without any history of banging.

I think if you kept running a whirlpool DD unbalanced and it kept beating on every load, it would eventually cause the outer tub to break or chip. I don’t think plastic outer tubs are the best, I think metal is better, tho I think they should be stainless steel, regular steel rusts out over time. Plastic outer drums just aren’t as good.

Plastic inner drums seem to hold up better than plastic outer drums do, not sure why. The GE’s used good plastic inner tubs, I’ve never seen one break unless someone put fireworks in it or something (which you should never put in a washing machine to begin with). Those GE washers had very tough plastic, the balance ring didn’t usually fail either, it was mainly the tub straps that went bad on the HydroWave. WCI Frigidaire also had plastic inner tubs that held up, as well as Norge and Amanatag. The plastic inner tubs actually seem to hold up better than the porcelain coated steel tubs do.

I wish every washer had a metal outer drum (preferably stainless steel) and a spring suspension.
 
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