Generators

[perc-o-prince]

Well, it finally happened. The Campbell Hausfeld we had for about 15 years (Briggs/Stratton engine) finally crapped out. It owes us nothing as it was a workhorse for the times we needed it.

So, now we're in the market. We have it pretty much narrowed down to the Durostar DS4400E. It has 4400 peak (3500 constant) watts which is more than our CH had (2500 peak), and has a 4 gallon tank that will run for about 8 hours on 50% load. The CH ran for about an hour as the tank was quite small- less than 1/2 gallon). It gets very good reviews and should be quieter than the loud CH. The electric start is a plus for Rich. $400 (no tax) incl. shipping off eBay.

We looked at Harbor Freight, and I was VERY surprised at the reviews for their Predator 4000/3200 generators! However, at $339 + 6.25% tax, then $25 for a wheel/handle kit, AND no electric start, we'd save about $14 and lose the electric start.

Home Depot had a couple of contenders, but they were "in-store only" items and no stores near here had any.

Has anyone had and experience with the Durostar generators? One of Rich's clients bought one about 2 years ago and they like it a lot. The only thing that went wrong was that their battery for the electric start leaked, but they didn't charge or disconnect it when not in use.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

 

[dnastrau]

Champion generator

We have a 120v/240v Champion generator (3500 watts continuous 4000 peak) that we got from Tractor Supply last year.  It has an overhead valve engine which uses a lot less fuel than the old flatheads did - and is quieter to boot.  It starts easily and got us through a week with no power during Sandy.  I would recommend adding a handle and wheel kit to make it easy to move around (we did.)

Loading…

www.tractorsupply.com

 

[perc-o-prince]

Thanks very much, Andrew. However, Rich is "stuck" on having the electric start (he has a bad back and needs to be able to handle it himself if necessary) and so far that still makes the Durostar the top choice.

 

[wayupnorth]

I have a Craftsman 6000 watt that runs everything I need it to but chews gas at the rate of one gallon per hour. I am keeping my fingers crossed I wont have to hook it up tomorrow as NOAA has us under a severe ice storm warning tonight thru Sunday.

 

[perc-o-prince]

Good luck, Tim!

Our old one used about what the new ones use or even less, BUT, the tank was so small it would only run about 1-1.25 hrs. Put it out at the curb with a "free- not working" sign on it before going to the transfer station and lunch, and it was gone when we got back. Didn't even have to haul it to the TS!!

Chuck

 

[wayupnorth]

Thanks Chuck. I bought this during that big ice storm we had in 1998 when we lost power 12 days. It has a 5 gallon tank so I get about 5 hours. Weather channel isnt saying much about Northern New England yet other than to say be prepared.

 

[kb0nes]

Here is a link to a company that makes extended run fueling kits for various generators, perhaps they have one that might fit one of the ones you are considering:

http://www.ipiindustries.com/

The system is basically a replacement fuel cap that has a hose that feeds an outboard marine fuel tank. I have one for my generator. With a full 6 gallon outboard tank the combo would run for several days in theory. The photo shows the fueling system on my little 2000 watt inverter generator.

For a number of years there is a weekend in June where I am involved with a group doing a 24 hour "emergency" simulation. We have used a number of generators over the years ranging from large to small. The single biggest suggestion is to not consider any generator that doesn't have overhead valves (OHV or OHC). The old L-head engines with their low compression ratio just use too much fuel.

The other issue with all infrequently run gasoline engines is that Ethanol in the fuel WILL cause problems. Gas older then a couple months is questionable, Stabil or not. If your state allows it seek out gasoline without added alcohol. This website shows available dealers of non-oxygenated fuel:

www.pure-gas.org

 

[petek]

I'm sitting here watching the news about the ice storm that's blanketed Toronto and subsequent power outages (We missed it thankfully ) and it's got me thinking that maybe we should get one just in case. Are you guys using transfer switches or just running extension cords from outside to power up . Ideally I'd like to at least be able to plug in the pump for the boiler so we'd have heat . Could I just have a switch installed for that right at the furnace and run an extension cord to it?

 

[sudsmaster]

I can't vouch for the quality, but if you're looking at Harbor Freight, get on their mailing list. Quite often their stuff is heavily discounted, 20% or more under list. As well, pick up a copy of many "enthusiast" type magazines, and you'll likely find a 20% off coupon for HF in them.

I second the recommendation to opt for a generator with an OHV motor. I can only compare the B&S flathead lawn mower I had with its OHV Honda powered replacement. The Honda uses about 1/2 the gas the old B&S did, and puts out more horses as well.

 

[arbilab]

To do it right, get a gen that runs on propane or natgas. Gas doesn't deteriorate. Doesn't pollute the oil anywhere near as fast as petrol. It's a LOT of overhead keeping track of how fresh your petrol is and what to do with that which isn't. Not to mention, in a widespread outage you cannot refill petrol as the pumps don't work. Here a week ago in Dallas stations ran out of petrol because the trucks couldn't travel on iced roads for 4 days. You can store any number of propane cylinders for any length of time.

 

[brucelucenta]

Of course you know that the very best way to go is a whole house generator that hooks up to natural gas, providing you have natural gas to your home. It automatically starts if there is a power failure and even tests itself each week for a few minutes to make sure everything is operating properly. I have one that says GE on the outside, although it is a briggs and straton engine. They certainly come in handy when there is a power outage.

 

[petek]

Just talking emergency winter conditions.

I think a whole house generator maybe overkill at this point and it's an expensive proposition. My main concern would be just to power the pump (nat gas boiler) on an intermittent basis over a 24 hr period. Just long enough to keep the house at a modest livable temperature, maybe cook a few things using a toaster oven while it's running for say an hour and then shut it down completely until needed again. We could probably get away with running it 3-4 times for an hour. Greatly reduces the chances of running out of gasoline and so you don't need to store as much. So long as your house is livable (chilly even, but not freezing) you don't need electric lights during the day and can survive with candles and/or battery operated lights at night for reading and other non tv watching activities.

Having said all that (insert LOL ) and not being an electrician whom I would hire to install, what type of transfer switch could be wall mounted between the main panel and the boilers pump. Whereby I'd just have to run a capable extension cord to it from a generator and manually flip a switch that would then totally isolate it from the mains ?
I'm guessing that the switch itself would have male ends and the extension cord coming from the generator would be female so as not to electrocute myself. I don't even know at this point if it's even legal to do such a thing.

[this post was last edited: 12/23/2013-07:57]

 

[countryguy]

Petek,

You can get a transfer switch that installs next to the existing electrical panel. The cord from the generator then plugs into the receptacle on the switch. From there you can select on your existing electrical panel which circuits you want to run at any given time so you could alternate circuits. This has to be installed by an electrician but is a lot expensive alternative to a whole house stand by generator.

Gary

Loading…

www.generac.com

 

[mattl]

If you are remotely comfortable doing wiring adding a transfer switch is not that hard, but if you are unsure of you skills hire someone.

The easiest way to power a 110v furnace/pump/what ever is to cut the power feed to it somewhere easy to reach. Install a female plug end on the feed from the breaker box and a matching male end on the line that goes to the furnace. The when need be simply unplug the ends and plug a standard extension cord onto the furnace end.

Not wise to make a double male cord and back feed the circuits. You'll need to flip the main breaker or pull the meter to avoid issues. Plus, only a portion of you circuits will work depending on which side to the feed they are connected to. You also have to kill most of the circuits to avoid overloading you generator.

As always with electrical if you don't know what you are doing don't do it. It is not hard to learn, most is common sense, but some people get scared are don't even try to understand the basics.

 

[kb0nes]

To run a gas boiler and it's circulator pump you only need a couple hundred watts at most, surely a lot easier then running a forced air blower. My system has a 1/25HP pump and even with the gas valve, and 24v system for the thermostat and setback control we are talking under 100 watts total.

I have run mine on a small DC-AC inverter and a deep cycle battery which I hardwired in once during an outage. I have the idea to add an extra quad box adjacent to the junction box feeding the furnace. I'd break out a 6" line cord and provide an outlet to "plug in" the entire furnace. In the event of a failure it would be simple to isolate and feed the furnace at this demarcation point.

A permanently installed generator with a transfer switch would be ideal. But in my case we have never had any significant outages more then a few hours in duration so its hard to justify the cost and loss of flexibility. I have uses for the generator in portable situations far more often so I bought a small 2Kw Honda Inverter generator. At 37 lbs and running at less then 58 db its a dream to use!