GM Frig 1-18 problems

[wiskybill]

Spring

From my bleach dispenser

Free length approx .500
Wire dia. approx .080
Coil O.D. approx 1.312
3 turns

Free end at large O.D. is stretched to provide tension to hold it in the cup. It seats on a shoulder in the bottom of the cup.
Small I.D. is such that it sits on the domed top of the agitator nut above the wrench flats.

It looks like the spring you find in the battery cap of a flashlight.

 

[fltcoils]

Many thanks

Thank you so very much.


I can use my springless bleach dispensor now. I will fabricate a spring.

Mark,

I'm still imagining you on the turnpike... did you do the same routine with that nissan and the other machines?

Committment to ones hobby.

 

[fltcoils]

It was a

versa 5dr,

yes?

Golly I'm glad you got home ok.

 

[akronman]

Clutch repair

Bill---That little Nissan has carried home many machines, no problem. Only 2 trips were as long as 4 hours one-way, fortunately.

 

See pics, clutch/brake disassembled. There was not a drop of grease or oil, and pretty darn little dust, it was only in use about 3 loads weekly for 6 months since last clutch work. Nothing looks broken or damaged, I cleaned all in mineral spirits and it's all drying now.

 

Am I just re-doing recent clutch maintenance I'll need to re-do in another six months? Instead of de-glazing the 3 pads, should I buy new? Are they available? Should I reverse them, "new" sides to contact? Will this minor amount of dust require cleaning routinely? This is pretty much my most fun machine, but something tells me I shouldn't have to do this chore all that routinely. Advice?

 

The spring holder was set on the second to highest tension, should I reassemble one notch higher or lower?

 

Check out all the pics. I have not yet "burnt off" the glazing, waiting on that until I hear more advice.

 

And the brakes almost never worked except one or two spins immediately after "burnishing" thm by holding the tub in place during 45 seconds of spin before letting go and letting it get up to speed. But the clutch worked until about a month ago, then got worse til almost every spin stopped. I love the machine and I like repair projects, just hoping to figure how to get it to last a few years in- between clutch work.

 

 

[akronman]

more

more

 

[akronman]

more

more

 

[akronman]

more

and I checked and wiped the 4 screw brake surface on the bottom of the cast tub base assembly, clean and bone dry, shiny, minor dust towards the interior, not on the mating surface. I'll happily just leave it on if that's ok.

 

[philr]

About the bleach dispenser springs, mine is also missing and I'd like to know how it holds to the dispenser? I can't figure that on mine! I think the former owner of my washer simply kept using it with a bouncing dispenser and it may have damaged the area where the spring should be...

 

If anyone has a 1-18 bleach dispenser with a spring for sale, please contact me!

 

Edit, I took a picture and it's not as damaged as I thought it was! So maybe a spring would still hold there?

 

[joelippard]

That clutch

is dirty!  Everything I see there in those photos needs a thorough cleaning.  While you have this apart let's be sure that you do it right because it is not a chore that needs frequent attention by any means.  I really don't think you needs new pads, and to turn them over will only increase the applied tension.  Clean the pads by giving them a light rub over some fine sandpaper, a quick soak in the mineral spirits and let them air dry while you clean the rest of it.  Be sure you get all of that grime off of those tension washers, and the like of the parts too.  Clean is the name of this game.  When you reassemble put the tensioner on the middle position which is the stock position.  This should resolve your issues, otherwise, disasemble again and drop it down to the next lowest position, further decreasing the tension.  I do think when you get it clean it should be fine in the stock position.

 

[fltcoils]

clean, lube

When I took the clutch apart last summer it was black with oil and grease. I was fairly successful at getting all the gook off of the brake cam and out of the linings, but it was mostly an experiment. It took 3 or 4 soakings in a can of acetone, brass bristle brushing, wiping and then baking with a pencil torch to get most of the oil out of the linings.

Are the linings cracked, warped or delaminating at all? They look ok but I can't tell this from the pics. To clean I'd use acetone or ethyl not mineral spirits, but that's my preference. However if you want new linings I think Larry at Modern Parts in Parma (216-661-6966) might have them. I bought some linings from him last summer. You are closer to him than me, but if you want them email me etc.

I am concerned that the center bushing in the clutch is rusty. So one thing I'd suggest is getting a good smooth rust free surface on the bushing, emory cloth, and the mating surface on the shaft. Same for the end of the shaft where the brake cam slides onto the spline. If the thing hangs up from rust that might do what you see.

Lube: I'd wipe one drop of mobile 1 on each of those areas. (one puts a drop on a 1" sq piece of cotton cloth, then wipes the surface with the cloth)

I'd also put a bit of lube grease, a tiny bit on the ramps of the cam. Make sure that the cam also can glide smoothly up and down the spline on the end of the shaft. 1 drop here as well.

I think the clutch plate, cluth linings and brake linings look ok. RickR had some clutches last year, but water coming down the shaft and into the clutch could sieze this up again.

 

[akronman]

Thanks Bill

Bill--many thanks, I'll get to it soon and post all results-------Once we solve this problem, that washer will return to being my favorite--

Mark

 

 

[akronman]

1-18 Clutch re-do

Last night I combined everyone's advice, thank you all. It takes quite a wing-span to ratchet the nut below the tub at the same time you're holding the agitator post from the top of the machine, a couple arm bruises are the result. Re-cleaned everything, barely a new speck of dirt. All brake disks and clutch disks re-sanded, installed in exact manner as removed, not turned over. TINY lithium grease on the ramped cams, minor emery cloth on shaft and inside the bearing, followed by one drop of turbine oil on each. Spring tension set at center markings. It's back on the 1-18, but I need another evening for reassembly of other parts before testing, I'll keep you posted. I currently have the cabinet removed, but have now figured out how to remove the clutch and do all such work from the front only, learning curve seems to work on me. Once you get the hang of it, it's not a bad job to clean and rebuild, but the proof will be in the spin---

 

[akronman]

working

Bill fltcoils-----JoeLippard-------John Combo--THANK YOU GUYS! fully reassembled, first load of clothes was medium size batch of towels, she kicked right into spin with no problem, all seems well. Braking is a bit better than before (Which was nonexistent.) I think brakes have to do with how far up the shaft I tighten that 1-3/16 nut, pushing the entire assembly against the brake plate, whereas clutch/spin has to do with the super-clean interior of the entire assembly.

Read just above for the minor lube I did, and medium tension on the spring, one load done and all looks well.

 

I have one WP/KM, one Maytag, one Filter-flo, one Norge, and this one 1-18. Its entire operation and excellence in washing makes it the only brand so far where I'd make space for a second washer, just fun and loud and unique operation.

 

THANK YOU

Mark

 

 

[this post was last edited: 2/1/2012-23:49]

 

[combo52]

FRIGIDARE 1-18 WASHER

Mark congratulations on another successful rebuild, there is just no stopping good old Midwest common sense and determination.

 

The Frigidaire despite a few minor short comings is one of the machines that I will always keep in my daily laundry line up. You will enjoy this washer more and more as you continue to use it.

 

[akronman]

"good old Midwest common sense and determination"

John--you may be right! I had that clutch/brake assembly off the machine 3 times in a week, the second time it wasn't budging even with a buddy working a wrench in the tub while I was below with a ratchet on that inch and 3/16 damn nut. It got late and he headed home--apparently his one washer is more important than my 9th??

SO--how to do it alone? I put that ratchet and socket on the nut beneath the spin cams, wedged a 2x4 underneath it on top of the snubber pan, then hammered in a small wedge of wood between the 2x4 and the ratchet head. It held VERY tightly and one small(ish) bang with a hammer on the wrench in the tub got me loosened up!

 

I shudda took a picture!

 

[fltcoils]

The nut comes off with finger tension

Well done,

I'm so glad you got it working.

Did I understand correctly, the nut was hard to remove? How is it now? It should come off with finger tension. It sounds like perhaps something was stuck.

The mechanism uses the brake cam/spin roll stop to lock the nut from turning. One lifts up on the spin roll stop (btm half of brake cam), enough to disengage the nut from the 1/16" inset it falls into, and then turns the nut freely with fingers.

(ref: Reply# 9 diagram)

 

[akronman]

finger tension

Bill---It is NOW on with finger tension, this last time when everything works(except the brake.) Previously, I had tightened it to hopefully get more braking, that's when it jammed and I did the creative racheting.

 

I have only run 2 loads but so far perfect spins and no brake. It's not a new machine, I can live with that and enjoy.

Thanks for your help--

Mark

 

[garyl]

Clutch and Brake

Mineral spirits can leave an oily film. I used spray brake cleaner. It works great. The brake cam may have been sticking. It doesn't come with any lube, but if you want to lube it (not a bad idea) grease or oil is probably the wrong stuff. Spray dry silicone lube should work great, but not get on other parts or gum up with heat and age. Graphite should also work good. I used to give the metal clutch disk a light sanding with emery cloth when I rebuilt a clutch. It is sort of like deglazing, turning, a car brake disk. One problem I had was I would get a machine with a shattered metal clutch disk, and the motor overload would trip as soon as it would go into a spin.

 

[combo52]

FRIGIDARE 1-18 WASHER CLUTCH AND BRAKE ASSEMBLY

Indeed brake cleaner is the thing to use and I would probably NOT use any lubricants at all in the clutch or this machines mechanism.