GM Frig 1-18 problems

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1-18 Clutch re-do

Last night I combined everyone's advice, thank you all. It takes quite a wing-span to ratchet the nut below the tub at the same time you're holding the agitator post from the top of the machine, a couple arm bruises are the result. Re-cleaned everything, barely a new speck of dirt. All brake disks and clutch disks re-sanded, installed in exact manner as removed, not turned over. TINY lithium grease on the ramped cams, minor emery cloth on shaft and inside the bearing, followed by one drop of turbine oil on each. Spring tension set at center markings. It's back on the 1-18, but I need another evening for reassembly of other parts before testing, I'll keep you posted. I currently have the cabinet removed, but have now figured out how to remove the clutch and do all such work from the front only, learning curve seems to work on me. Once you get the hang of it, it's not a bad job to clean and rebuild, but the proof will be in the spin---
 
working

Bill fltcoils-----JoeLippard-------John Combo--THANK YOU GUYS! fully reassembled, first load of clothes was medium size batch of towels, she kicked right into spin with no problem, all seems well. Braking is a bit better than before (Which was nonexistent.) I think brakes have to do with how far up the shaft I tighten that 1-3/16 nut, pushing the entire assembly against the brake plate, whereas clutch/spin has to do with the super-clean interior of the entire assembly.

Read just above for the minor lube I did, and medium tension on the spring, one load done and all looks well.

 

I have one WP/KM, one Maytag, one Filter-flo, one Norge, and this one 1-18. Its entire operation and excellence in washing makes it the only brand so far where I'd make space for a second washer, just fun and loud and unique operation.

 

THANK YOU

Mark

 

 

[this post was last edited: 2/1/2012-23:49]
 
FRIGIDARE 1-18 WASHER

Mark congratulations on another successful rebuild, there is just no stopping good old Midwest common sense and determination.

 

The Frigidaire despite a few minor short comings is one of the machines that I will always keep in my daily laundry line up. You will enjoy this washer more and more as you continue to use it.
 
"good old Midwest common sense and determination"

John--you may be right! I had that clutch/brake assembly off the machine 3 times in a week, the second time it wasn't budging even with a buddy working a wrench in the tub while I was below with a ratchet on that inch and 3/16 damn nut. It got late and he headed home--apparently his one washer is more important than my 9th??

SO--how to do it alone? I put that ratchet and socket on the nut beneath the spin cams, wedged a 2x4 underneath it on top of the snubber pan, then hammered in a small wedge of wood between the 2x4 and the ratchet head. It held VERY tightly and one small(ish) bang with a hammer on the wrench in the tub got me loosened up!

 

I shudda took a picture!
 
The nut comes off with finger tension

Well done,

I'm so glad you got it working.

Did I understand correctly, the nut was hard to remove? How is it now? It should come off with finger tension. It sounds like perhaps something was stuck.

The mechanism uses the brake cam/spin roll stop to lock the nut from turning. One lifts up on the spin roll stop (btm half of brake cam), enough to disengage the nut from the 1/16" inset it falls into, and then turns the nut freely with fingers.

(ref: Reply# 9 diagram)

fltcoils++2-2-2012-21-41-27.jpg
 
finger tension

Bill---It is NOW on with finger tension, this last time when everything works(except the brake.) Previously, I had tightened it to hopefully get more braking, that's when it jammed and I did the creative racheting.

 

I have only run 2 loads but so far perfect spins and no brake. It's not a new machine, I can live with that and enjoy.

Thanks for your help--

Mark
 
Clutch and Brake

Mineral spirits can leave an oily film. I used spray brake cleaner. It works great. The brake cam may have been sticking. It doesn't come with any lube, but if you want to lube it (not a bad idea) grease or oil is probably the wrong stuff. Spray dry silicone lube should work great, but not get on other parts or gum up with heat and age. Graphite should also work good. I used to give the metal clutch disk a light sanding with emery cloth when I rebuilt a clutch. It is sort of like deglazing, turning, a car brake disk. One problem I had was I would get a machine with a shattered metal clutch disk, and the motor overload would trip as soon as it would go into a spin.
 
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