A dream has come true. A new addition to my collection. Due to the kindness of fellow club member Mr. Bob Orear I have what I only dreamed of being able to find someday. Here are the photos.
GM Frigidaire Custom Deluxe Rapidry 1000
- Thread starter joelippard
- Start date
Sitting beside the 1-18
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Steve 1-18 in Georgia has one just like this!!
Control Panel
Washing Away
Throwing the Wash Water
Rinse Fill
Overflow Rinse
The Finished Product
While this machine looks perfect, and it mostly is, there are a few small issues that I need help from you guys to resolve in order to make it truly perfect.
Issue 1: It seems to overbalance and hit against the water container if the load is not perfectly distributed. I have checked the snubber and it looks to be fine, everything looks tight and the machine was rebuilt not all that long ago, everything under the skirt looks great. Do you all have any suggestions? Maybe I'm loading it wrong, but I load it just like I do the 1-18, in quadrants. It absolutely hated a pair of jeans last night that were mixed in with a load of pants.
Issue 2: Take a look at the photo. How do I repair this rust spot in the tub. I want to stop it before it spreads. Also, what would be good to try and remove those water stains with? Lime A Way was worthless.
Thanks Guys,
Joe
By the Way
This washer is Model WCDATN Could someone date if for me. We seem to this it's a '67
This washer is Model WCDATN Could someone date if for me. We seem to this it's a '67
Congrats
My mom bought this machine back in 1967. Rapidry 1000.
Only had Normal and Gentle speeds.
It was a great machine.
Would love to find one of these to replace a 'MAYTAG'.
My mom bought this machine back in 1967. Rapidry 1000.
Only had Normal and Gentle speeds.
It was a great machine.
Would love to find one of these to replace a 'MAYTAG'.
gyrafoam
Well-known member
Good for you, Joe. I'm glad you got it!
I would use JB Weld on that spot -------AFTER I brushed away all the rust I could get off of it (with a metal brush). Its not 'gonna be a match color-wise, but hey, we do what we 'gotta do.
I would use JB Weld on that spot -------AFTER I brushed away all the rust I could get off of it (with a metal brush). Its not 'gonna be a match color-wise, but hey, we do what we 'gotta do.
"N" would be 1968
1000 rpm in 1968 ....
... really over the future !!
You already had this "eight wonder" ... yet someone says "wow!" while staring at a fast spinning brand new euro FL .
Sometimes we too behave this way about US ...greener is the grass in your neighbor's yard. Always. *LOL*
... really over the future !!
You already had this "eight wonder" ... yet someone says "wow!" while staring at a fast spinning brand new euro FL .
Sometimes we too behave this way about US ...greener is the grass in your neighbor's yard. Always. *LOL*
1000 rpm in 1968 .... ... really over the future !!
Favorit, the spin speed was 1010 rpms. Remember, the first Frigidaire top loader that came out in 1947 or 1948 (Unimatics)--through 1958, had a spin speed of 1140 rpms. Roberts 1948 or 1949 GE washer also had a spin speed of 1140 rpms.
Favorit, the spin speed was 1010 rpms. Remember, the first Frigidaire top loader that came out in 1947 or 1948 (Unimatics)--through 1958, had a spin speed of 1140 rpms. Roberts 1948 or 1949 GE washer also had a spin speed of 1140 rpms.
dynaflow
Well-known member
lots of memories
my mother had the same machine before she got hooked on maytags and a uncle had it in aqua
my mother had the same machine before she got hooked on maytags and a uncle had it in aqua
mixguy
Well-known member
There was one 1-18 model with Rapidry in 1971
When my parents bought their Avocado 1-18 and matching flowing heat gas dryer in 1971. I remember there being one model was a suds saver, another with 1,000 rpm spin speed the TOL model hand none of those feature but was a 3 speed model lighted back splash opional 2nd rinse and enzyme soak cycle. Most 1-18s has a 880 rpm spin speed. The washer we had had a 6 position dial that that determined wash/rinse temps and wahsh /spin speeds. There was a cold water option for modifying wash/rinse temps, Infinite water level and times with soak and wash cycles. The models all began with a W, One model was WIAS or WAIS I wish I had taken the brochures for the washer and dryers mom kept on file for yrs after she replaced them with Maytags. She hated the trouble w had with the gas dryer's ignitee! It would affect the brass touch lamps in the living room, frequently changing the light level.
When my parents bought their Avocado 1-18 and matching flowing heat gas dryer in 1971. I remember there being one model was a suds saver, another with 1,000 rpm spin speed the TOL model hand none of those feature but was a 3 speed model lighted back splash opional 2nd rinse and enzyme soak cycle. Most 1-18s has a 880 rpm spin speed. The washer we had had a 6 position dial that that determined wash/rinse temps and wahsh /spin speeds. There was a cold water option for modifying wash/rinse temps, Infinite water level and times with soak and wash cycles. The models all began with a W, One model was WIAS or WAIS I wish I had taken the brochures for the washer and dryers mom kept on file for yrs after she replaced them with Maytags. She hated the trouble w had with the gas dryer's ignitee! It would affect the brass touch lamps in the living room, frequently changing the light level.
Nice Frigidaire there! As Steve mentioned, JB Weld works great to seal up those chipped spots. I've also had good luck with POR-15 on tub rust as well.
Not sure on the cure for your sensitive out of balance issue. Does the tub rock back and forth, how do you say this, too easy? The snubber would only be half of it, the mechanism support could also be a contributing factor. Hopefully the counter weight on the top of the tub is still intact. I brought home a '67 GE once that had rusted through and all the counter balance ballast had fallen out of the tub!
Ben
Not sure on the cure for your sensitive out of balance issue. Does the tub rock back and forth, how do you say this, too easy? The snubber would only be half of it, the mechanism support could also be a contributing factor. Hopefully the counter weight on the top of the tub is still intact. I brought home a '67 GE once that had rusted through and all the counter balance ballast had fallen out of the tub!
Ben
Ben
Thank you for your advice. Just for so everyone can chime in I failed to ad that, the tub plug for the counter balance is in place and it looks fine, the mechanism support looks brand new, the snubber looks fine, but I don't know what "fine" should really be. The tub never stops off center, and has a good resistance when I grab the JetCone and rock it back and forth. It takes a great deal of effort for me to push the tub up against the water container, but I can do it.
Thank you for your advice. Just for so everyone can chime in I failed to ad that, the tub plug for the counter balance is in place and it looks fine, the mechanism support looks brand new, the snubber looks fine, but I don't know what "fine" should really be. The tub never stops off center, and has a good resistance when I grab the JetCone and rock it back and forth. It takes a great deal of effort for me to push the tub up against the water container, but I can do it.
I looked through the '65 Rollermatic service manual (check under the Service Manuals section on the homepage - I had Robert add the manual a few months ago).
Here is a snap shot of GM's suggested corrective procedures. I'd make sure that the snubber was 100 percent. Are the pads worn on the snubber pad face?
Ben
Here is a snap shot of GM's suggested corrective procedures. I'd make sure that the snubber was 100 percent. Are the pads worn on the snubber pad face?
Ben
Coincidentally
I just read this, I have the manual saved to my computer. One question that I have is .... Is is safe to lay the washer over on it's front side to remove the cross brace and check the snubber?
I just read this, I have the manual saved to my computer. One question that I have is .... Is is safe to lay the washer over on it's front side to remove the cross brace and check the snubber?
gyrafoam
Well-known member
Yes. I always place the machine on the floor front side down. I put a couple of old folded towels down to provide padding.
An old paint bucket is good to provide mechanism support, however some folks prefer a block of wood,etc. Nonetheless, you want to take the stress off of that mechanism support!
I suppose it is possible the filings in the balance ring may have shifted or somehow a pinhole may have formed somewhere alongt the ring----enough for some moisture to get through to the filings-----causing them to rust and clump up.
There should also be a spring that attaches to the bottom/side of the mechanism. I recall there are three attachment holes to put the end of the spring through to add or reduce the tension on the spring. Perhaps this is the problem. The spring may need re-adjustment----or maybe the spring is missing?
An old paint bucket is good to provide mechanism support, however some folks prefer a block of wood,etc. Nonetheless, you want to take the stress off of that mechanism support!
I suppose it is possible the filings in the balance ring may have shifted or somehow a pinhole may have formed somewhere alongt the ring----enough for some moisture to get through to the filings-----causing them to rust and clump up.
There should also be a spring that attaches to the bottom/side of the mechanism. I recall there are three attachment holes to put the end of the spring through to add or reduce the tension on the spring. Perhaps this is the problem. The spring may need re-adjustment----or maybe the spring is missing?
Re: Gyrafoam
Thanks for your advice Steve, I'm going to have to sniff around a bit. I noticed those springs under there, there are two of them, they look to be what I'd consider a bit small in diameter to provide much tension. Also, I noticed they are stainless steel as there is not a trace of rust on them and surely after all these years metal springs would have surface rust.
Whatever the problem is, it's very slight. A hunch tells me adjusting or replacing those springs will stop the problem. I looked in the Tech Talk and could not locate any information about the springs. Do you know where they connect to on each end? Should they be in the back (like they are now) or one front, one back?
I'm sorry to ask so many questions but I want to make sure if I do anything that I do it properly. I don't want any damage to this fine machine.
Thanks for your advice Steve, I'm going to have to sniff around a bit. I noticed those springs under there, there are two of them, they look to be what I'd consider a bit small in diameter to provide much tension. Also, I noticed they are stainless steel as there is not a trace of rust on them and surely after all these years metal springs would have surface rust.
Whatever the problem is, it's very slight. A hunch tells me adjusting or replacing those springs will stop the problem. I looked in the Tech Talk and could not locate any information about the springs. Do you know where they connect to on each end? Should they be in the back (like they are now) or one front, one back?
I'm sorry to ask so many questions but I want to make sure if I do anything that I do it properly. I don't want any damage to this fine machine.
gyrafoam
Well-known member
In spite of how tiny those things are, the counter-balance springs make a huge difference in how well the tub balances.
The bracket (with four holes for adjustment) appears as a little metal tab connected to the edge of the pump housing.
My machine appears to be exactly like yours with the Model#WN3! Go figya.
The bracket (with four holes for adjustment) appears as a little metal tab connected to the edge of the pump housing.
My machine appears to be exactly like yours with the Model#WN3! Go figya.
autowasherfreak
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2008
- Messages
- 3,637
Cool machine, I hope you enjoy it for years to come!
Oh WOW!! Congratulations Joe!
You might try taking the bottom brace off and cleaning the snubber and snubber plate.
I have had my Rapid Dry all the way apart, and I laid the machine on it's side while I removed the bottom brace.
Good luck, and let us know what up.
You might try taking the bottom brace off and cleaning the snubber and snubber plate.
I have had my Rapid Dry all the way apart, and I laid the machine on it's side while I removed the bottom brace.
Good luck, and let us know what up.
laundromat
Well-known member
muratic acid-
always works for me when I find a rusty tub.Just be sure you wear rubber gloves and a face mask.The fumes will be strong but works great on rust or oxidation on metal.After it gets the rust out,use some enamal paint and put three coats on letting each one dry a full 8 hours before the next coat.
always works for me when I find a rusty tub.Just be sure you wear rubber gloves and a face mask.The fumes will be strong but works great on rust or oxidation on metal.After it gets the rust out,use some enamal paint and put three coats on letting each one dry a full 8 hours before the next coat.
Thanks All
for you kind comments and advice. When I get time to dig into this I'll post back with the outcome. In the meantime, here are a few more pictures I forgot to add. I didn't remember the Deep Action being so splashy, you could catch a shower off that thing!
for you kind comments and advice. When I get time to dig into this I'll post back with the outcome. In the meantime, here are a few more pictures I forgot to add. I didn't remember the Deep Action being so splashy, you could catch a shower off that thing!
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