Heat-Pump Woes.

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

At this point

Steve, I'm summing up below my understanding of the situation and how I'd go about checking it. Nothing new here, probably, just my little button of a brain grinding through the itterations.
If I understand correctly, you know that there is no 'logic' controlling the unit. That means every single 'decision' is based on either a timer or a thermostat or a mechanical switch.
Right?
If this be the case, then it would make sense to my little button of a brain to proceed as follows.
1) Make sure all the fuses or circuit breakers are working. Code specifies separate means to power off units like this within 'sight' of the unit. It could be that a simple cartridge fuse has failed in a not-so-sightly-box.
2) All the wiring connections tight and the wires not broken or chewed through? We have a nasty cousin of the beaver in Munich who loves to chew on insulation and seems impervious to high voltages.
3)Can each individual element of the system be proven to work, either by checking resistance or isolating it from the system and then powering it up?
4)Such devices, of necessity, have various safety and overload protection built in. They are designed to fail-safe. Check them.
5)Find the decision maker for each element of the system and, using a simple switch or bridge, set the system to resistive heat. At some point or other, the system will come on. That will tell you where the (or, one of the)problems is.

By the by, I know the problem of being cheated or outright abused because you aren't 'manly' enough. Makes me hate breeders with a passion. They do two minutes of 'work' (if the woman is lucky), she spends nine months of her too short life growing a parasite...then when it hatches, he crows all over the place while she, exhausted, gets bit and sucked dry. And not in a good way.
End of Rant...
 
Nasty cousin of the beaver? *LOL*

I don't hate anyone. Such intensity usually robs the giver of his health. My issue is: What makes where you plant your seed superior to where mine goes? It all stinks and it's all pink on the inside.

~If I understand correctly, you know that there is no 'logic' controlling the unit. That means every single 'decision' is based on either a timer or a thermostat or a mechanical switch.
CORRECT.

1 & 2- I beleve all are Ok. Will check.
3 & 4- Must do.

Thanks all for you kind suggestions and reassurance. Now that I know that a proper meter is inexpensive, I'll get one and have the friend pay for it. Saves him from buying me and GadgetGary a dinner.

My biggest concern is that the 24 volt and 220v loops run side-by side in the same enclosure. Just need to make sure I'm not crossing one into the other. I'm guessing fried fairy is not very tasty.
 
Toggles,

I am still trying to get my head around everything being either 220V, Split-phase (I put that in every time cause it drives the anal-retentives crazy) with no single part of the unit being one 'leg' (hear them moan!) to neutral...I would really check that aspect.
The 24V together with the 220V is scary. Not permitted anymore in Germany, for obvious reasons...but it does raise a possibility. Silly as it sounds, if nothing else comes up as the source of trouble, you might try runing a twisted wire pair to the 24V users.
I try not to expend energy in hating anyone, just having breeders in my family who go out of the way to abuse me makes it tough at times...I've stayed out of their way completely the last six months and just now at Christmas, they mounted another attack...unprovoked!
And I don't think the mucho-machos get so upset about where they shoot their loads...it's where (and in whom) it lands which gets them upset. The worst macho cultures frequently see only the 'catcher' as being homosexual...whereas the 'pitcher' is a 'real' man.
 
~there is no complicated electronic & thermostat cut- out or limiter or change-over device.

should read: electronic and /or THERMOSTATIC cut-out...........
 
Fabulous, even baseball spoken of!

~I am still trying to get my head around everything being either 220V....or 24V.

HMMM. The only real possibilty of 110v in a heat-pump scenario (that I can think of) is the fan. So why bother? You'd only need two wires from the power supply that way, not three. So without a 110v component, any DEDICATED circuit (even with only two wires) may very easily be converted to 220v.

I know for a fact that some air-handlers in central air-condtioning systems (without heat) use 110v. My own Trane brand air-handler (A/C only) however is 220v.

The one-piece through-the-wall A/C's that use 220v do not have 110v components (i.e. the fan). Two wires and ground will do ya (three prong plug).

Electric clothes dryers here in the USA have 220v heaters with the balance of components using 110v; so three wires (and, per recent changes in code, a separate ground conductor and prong)are required.
 
You can't screw me unless I lay down first.

~in my family who go out of the way to abuse me makes it tough at times...I've stayed out of their way completely the last six months and just now at Christmas, they mounted another attack...unprovoked!

"Love" does not give anyone the right to abuse anyone else. If anything we should treat blood BETTER than strangers.
I know how hard it is to avoid evil family.

Here is antother tid-bit. Women (as a class) need to have close personal and nurturing relationships; a support network if you will. Oftentimes their emotional needs cloud their logical judgement. We see evidence of this in the writings in Women's magazines, which address even the simplest of logical though-processies through the prevailing emotional entanglements and confusion. So, here you are at an advantage, as a man, and especially as an English-speaker. English-speaking societies generally pride themselves on taming and mastering one's emotional outbursts(where others embrace and encourge them). Say to yourself "I WILL NOT HAVE AN EMOTIONAL RESPONSE TO THIS ABUSE. It is meant to get me to respond." Ditto likewise YOU as a man (theoretically) can deal with separation from family better than any female (theoretically) in your family can. In other words you giving mom and your sisters the silent treatment hurts them much more than it hurts you. Dont be angry, don't be mean and don't be hurtful. Just be firm in your resolve.And don't forget the WIFM factor. What's in it for me? If they make you feel awful, why bother? My grandparents got up and left their parents and familes behind far far away to come here and better themselves. If your family does nothing but hurt you, it may be time to say "ENOUGH" and distance yourself.

That does not mean you don't love them and care about them. It simply means that you love youself enough to stop taking sh-t. True love is unconditional. But if they are putting conditions on it, then you have the right to do the same and MAKE THE RULES.

Be good to yourself first. Make youself happy and whole. That is YOUR job and no one will do it for you. Go forth in peace, and I apologize profusely for my strong opinions. Too much coffee today.You are loved by many! So if you have to ditch the few (even temporarily) so be it. Let's converse privately if I can be of any assistance.

Best regards,
Seve
 
The defrost cycle is activated by a controller in the outdoor compressor. Many of the older units, they were pretty basic, when the outdoor temp got below 40, a timer was activated that would count down a particular amount of time that could be set by the install technician. Around here, it was usually somewhere between 60 or 90 minutes. When that time came, the controller would activate the reversing valve, shut off the outside fan, and send 24 volts up the defrost line back into the house so the heat strips would activate. Today's systems are a bit more sophisticated because they use electronic computers. They can measure the temp of the coil and determine the proper length of the defrost cycle, some can even run faster defrost intervals depending on humidity, airflow, and temperature among other variables.

There are a few variations of that thermostat setup I stated earlier too if you have fossil-fuel backup heat, which have become very common in these parts. A forced air furnace has a built-in fan switch that will activate the fan when the heat exchanger temp gets above it's preset temp. Normally, when you are in heat mode in a system with electric backup, when auxilary heat is called, COMPRESSOR, FAN, and AUX HEAT are all "high". With a fossil-fuel system, when auxilary heat is called for, the COMPRESSOR and FAN lines are de-activated, shutting down the outdoor unit, and the indoor fan until the heat exchanger is up to full temperature. Once the auxilary heat is satisfied, it will go back to heat pump mode and shut off the fossil-fuel system.

Some dual-fuel systems also have an outdoor thermostat on the defrost board too. They will activate the defrost line at usually 40-35 degrees when the heat pump becomes inefficient. The thermostat will then sense this and cut off the COMPRESSOR and FAN circuits. Any time the thermostat calls for heat when this condition is met, the fossil-fuel furnace will provide the heat, and not the heat pump, thus saving electricity.

I have also seen a home where they have hot-water heating in conjunction with a heat pump. In these systems, the AUX HEAT line activates the circulation pump on the boiler to distribute heat to the radiators. When the boiler gets too cool, the burner is lit using an internal thermostat. These systems sometimes leave people scratching their heads, because the boiler's burner will sometimes run even when the system is in heat pump mode, or not even calling for heat, leading the user to believe the system is heating, when all it's doing is "topping off" the heat in boiler due to heat loss.
 
Link is to how the heat pump works. From the 24 volt call for heat to the unit it self. My uncle is a hvac man so I try to give him a ring today and see if he has any info on this.

Who makes the unit? One other thing to check witch I am sure you have is the filter to make sure it is clean.

Funny thing to me is a forced heat system with aircon is listed as part of a heat pump. But with out the parts included so it could be a add on.

most of the 110 to 220 volt thermostat run only in floor heat or baseboard heat or a wall aircon like in a hotel.

Now the other thing the thermostat is going to be most liky 24 ac but can be dc. Some units are 12 volt ac or dc but since the thermostat is rated for up to 20volts you can use it for a 12 volt system.



http://www.achrnews.com/Articles/Service_and_Maintenance/ec22894ffbe5a010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
 
Carrier brand

Yup, clean filter.....but it may NOT have been last winter before the new owner(my friend) bought the place. Thermal cut-out? HMMMMMMMMMM

The thermnostat is low voltage AC. May be 12v or 24v,

~Funny thing to me is a forced-air heat system with aircon is listed as part of a heat pump.
It can very easily be converted to one if the indoor coils, the oudoor unit, some wiring and the thermostat are replaced.
In a dual-fuel system (with gas or oil) with a heat-pump, would both ever work simultaneously? If so, the the heat-pump coil would need to be BEFORE the gas or oil furnace woeuldn't it? Can't have a cooler-running heat-pump coil AFTER a hotter soure of air......
 
Here is the unit in my place does it look anything like this? I get the model # off the sticker and post it. If so I might even have a service book for but there was or is a web site that list all there models.

I search for the site also. I used it once to fig out how the freak to fix a drain problem I had. Not a easy thing at that. lol

1-6-2008-15-32-45--coldspot.jpg
 
This unit is a 40AQ018330FH. It was made in 1978 and never once from what the landlady says has had the heat coils replaced.

If this is the same or close let me know. I will also look for the website that list the units with the service manual online.

1-6-2008-15-37-57--coldspot.jpg
 
Here is GadgetBoy's heat pump, which is exactly like the one my (our) friend has. As you can see, the inside unit (the air-handler) resembles that of your central A/C.

If you look to the upper right you can see a large conduit that brings in the 60a cable for the resistance coils.

Top to bottom, hdden behind access panel door:
Electric resistance coils,
Electrical components, relays,
Blower
Refrigeration "coil" (tubes and fins)

The curlique thingie in black and copper is the thermostatic expansion valve and sensor, which the prior unit did not have.

This air-handler was reused from a prior heatpump that was in the house, so the T.E.V. helps boost efficiency and performance.
 
My unit is top vent type. The vents are wall vents up high. The unit itself is about 3 feet off the floor in the lounge closeted.

Here are more photos of the inside and stuff.

Here is the top of the unit with the vent duck.

1-6-2008-21-50-33--coldspot.jpg
 
Air coil on bottom of unit fan next then the heat is at the top of the unit. The return is under unit return vent in wal.

1-6-2008-21-53-51--coldspot.jpg
 
Gosh, Steve...

Did you just say I give good tongue?
:-))))
Time to pull the plug on this one, else the anal-retentive-kill-joys will get their juices flowing again and go running to mommy about our sexual innuendo. Like the last time. And the time before. And the time before that...
So, phasing back into to pumping.
A unit that old might not be as tight as it once was, and lubrication could also be a problem. You might want to probe that carefully and thoroughly.
As regards the family, thanks for the open ear. I might just take you up on that.
 
1978 outside unit it is the matching unit 1978-1979 to this place and looks like crap. From what I have read it used to be dark green and coils would have been black. But the sun has turned it into this. lol

Since I rent and it works I do not say much. Also since my uncle works on air unit I have a back up if the landlady will not fix it.

Note the inside unit the 220 wire is not in a shield. This town sucks they did not pass the law to shield wires until a few years ago. Since the unit is installed and works it passes but if replaced the wires must be covers.

1-6-2008-21-59-39--coldspot.jpg
 

Similar threads

H
Look ma, it's heat pump! (VZug WA6000 & TR6000)
Replies
20
Views
176
schulthess
S
volsboy1
There is so much vitroil with Heat pumps
Replies
19
Views
161
askolover
askolover
H
Heat Pumps - Why they are already a wise investment
2
Replies
47
Views
165
gizmo
G
volsboy1
Stans Heating and Air destroyed my heat pump.
Replies
4
Views
204
ken
ken
richardc1983
Fisher & Paykel DH9060FS1 9Kg Heat Pump Tumble Dryer Review: Truly innovative technology
Replies
25
Views
2K
lavamat_jon
L

Latest posts

Back
Top