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HI Stevey

You'll still get a cold rinse if you set the temps to warm, but if you do it your way and have the wash set to hot and forget, you'll get no water and for a second think the washer is broken and have a panic attack ;'D

Also, and you'll know this better than I will: Isn't it safer to inlet cold thru the hot rather than hot thru the cold, i.e., is the cold not meant to take hot water or are the valves and their components identical ? I don't know, just thought that the cold can't take heat, whereas the hot is made to take anything. Do you know for sure. I bet you do.

You don't need the Y hose; it's cumbersome and redundant, not to mention WAY MORE WORK> ;=> And Cimberlie says that she has only one tap available.
 
Hello Lads

Well it is getting VERY crowded around here! Spent a good part of the morning moving things about to fit the new arrival! Suffice to say the Hoover TT has now become a "table" with the aid of a tablecloth draped over the thing! *LOL*

Hose Connections:

MikeyD and Toggles: Great minds think alike, but once one heard the cost of a quick connect kit (Sears PartsDirect genuine Whirlpool part, cost $98 before shipping), moved onto plan B. Will cap over the hot inlet, (water level dial on this machine lists either Warm/Cold or Cold/Cold as "manual water selection", and get rid of the two hose with "Y" connector. Unlike my Miele which must have both water inlets connected, this machine works fine with one, and as water temp will be controlled by the faucet anyway, don't see the need to clutter things up with more hoses than required.

Ordered an 8' drain hose, and will nip down to local hardware or HD for an 8' inlet hose and brass cap if it ever stops raining.

Loud noise only on Delicates or Knits? Who knew, and will investigate further once have hoses in house. Planned on using those settings allot since the agitator action on "Normal" is powerful, but I don't know now. *LOL*

Still, don't think the noise is the motor, it seemed to be coming from the back of the unit midway down. IIRC it went on during all phases of the cycle. Rather sounded like an alarm clock.

MacBoy:

Model number for my washer is LC4900XM. Have posted link to owner's manual below.

These units were sold to be used as either portable or stationary. Dryer in the background at seller's house is a Westinghouse and it was for sale as well, but one had no need.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use and Care Guide - 385033.pdf
 
Water Connections for One Faucet Operation

If one examines the owner's manual (see link above), and pictures of the back of my unit (also above), you will see only two connections, the upper inlet (cold), and drain hose (lower right side of the machine). The hot is capped off.
 
~HI Stevey. You'll still get a cold rinse if you set the temps to warm, but if you do it your way and have the wash set to hot and forget, you'll get no water and for a second think the washer is broken and have a panic attack ;'D

MIKEY!
Ah, but capping off the cold side and filling the machine through the hot valve means you won't get ANY type of rinsing if the defualt of the machine is a cold rinse.

Back in the 80s there were two less-bionics in my apartment building in Kew Gardens, Queens who had such washer and set the dial for "Hot" Their "hot" was capped off to use the quick-conect connector

They called me an hour later and wondered why the machine wasn't filling and WHERE the water had gone after all that time. I was not able to penetrate (with my answers) but I simply said just leave it on "warm/cold" or warm/warm at all times, and select the temperature at the faucet.

I simply refused to let them change my car's oil, points spark plugs and rotate my tires.

:-)
 
The belt drive machines LIKE YOURS

I thought I made it clear we were discussing her washer; that's why I said the spin speed was faster than on the direct drive portable machines that replaced the belt drive portables like hers.
 
Hi Steve Hi Tom

My cold valve is capped off and the machine works fine on Hot/Warm, but the control dial lists Warm/Cold and Cold/Cold as the manual selections. I was mistaken in thinking that a cold water valve would have difficulty with hot water.

MY machine and HER machine are identical except in color, same year, same model and belt driven. I did not know that the later direct drive portables had a slower spin than the BD's. MY point in the video "Dorthy Street Wash Machines" and in the discussions was the SHOCK on learning of such a fast spin in the portables instead of the formerly consistent and notorious slow spins of BD KM/WP's.

Why, Tom, did they not make the standard machines spin as fast as the portables, and why did they slow down the spin in the later DD's. Can you make sense of it for me, please. Thank you.

(I do have a full size Whilpool from the mid-nineties discussed in another thread; maybe I confused the issue. Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa !) Or the whole Confiteor if you'd like, in Latin or English or both.)

Hoping for continued friendship as it was before we left.

Michaeli
 
I just have to wonder

if anybody listens to me around here. Laundress, here's your question:

Loud noise only on Delicates or Knits? Who knew, and will investigate further once have hoses in house. Planned on using those settings allot since the agitator action on "Normal" is powerful, but I don't know now. *LOL*

Still, don't think the noise is the motor, it seemed to be coming from the back of the unit midway down. IIRC it went on during all phases of the cycle. Rather sounded like an alarm clock.

And here's my answer:

First, I have the EXACT same machine that you do, except mine is model number LFC4900Y0. They left out the F in yours, probably because it's a slightly later model. But I can't say for certain because I know absolutely nothing about model numbers.

Anyway. About that "buzzing" sound. Older mechanical machines like these are more prone to vibrations, because there is no insulation in the cabinets. They are NOISY, more so than the brand new stuff we're all accustomed to these days. Plastic parts, metal parts, and anything without a rubber grommet is going to resonate across the whole outfit, starting from the motor connecting to the chassis. I'm afraid there's not much you can do about it, as mine does the exact same thing. And is it louder in the knit and delicate cycles???? You're darn tootin' it is! Way louder! That's why I don't like using the slow agitation.

NorfolkSouthern

NorfolkSouthern++10-28-2009-17-20-17.jpg
 
Ok, Ok! Message Received!

Loud and clear!

Was hoping for something slightly quieter than the Hoover TT, but suppose one could put on some background music or the telly to drown out the "noise".

Wanted a second washer (ok, third)to take some of the work off my Miele. Not that the old girl is slowing down, but she is going on and parts are becoming hard to find, as well as Miele techs willing to work on "old" models. My main concerns are the bearings and motor. Once either goes the machine will have to be put out to pasture as not one Miele repair person locally has the tools (think winch)and desire to do that sort of work. For most it really is more than their job is worth.

Speaking of the Miele, there are times when one either has just a small load of laundry, or wishes to plough through large amounts quickly. Waiting around 45mins to over an hour often is not what one desires. Yes, it is possible to get through lots of laundry quickly with a Hoover TT, that unit presents it's own set of problems.

NorthfolkSouthern:

What did you use to get the plastic inner tub rim so clean and shiny? Am going to run the unit with some VERY hot water and dishwasher cleaner (letting it sit for a bit), to clean out any gunk,mould,germs, scrud and so forth between tubs and so forth, but don't wish to risk scratching or ethching the plastic.

Also can anyone suggest what to do, if anything about the slightest beginnings of rust around some of the tub holes? You cannot really see it in the pictures, but a few of the holes around the bottom of the tub have a faint tinge of rust.

Thanks again all for the well wishes and advice!

L.
 
Most of the time, I can get a plastic tub clean with just plain water and a dish rag. Dawn dishwashing liquid or something similar will also help. You may also want to scrub where the rust holes are on the porcelain with a WHITE scrubber sponge, and again, some Dawn dishwashing liquid.

Have you tried removing the tub ring yet? It comes in two parts. First, you remove the hoses, then there are four snaps, one on each corner, that you carefully unlatch with your thumb and forefinger. You don't want to break the plastic snaps. Gently lift each corner as you do this. The lower part of the tub ring removes with metal snaps, which I unhinge and spring back by hand. You may need a screwdriver, though. After those are removed, you can gently lift the ring off the tub assembly. Then, you can clean off any gunk that may have accumulated there.

If you feel a little more daring: The agitator has a cap with a screwdriver slot. Remove the cap, and then remove the nut with a socket. Now lift off the agitator. Next, get a spanner wrench and remove the big spanner nut CLOCKWISE. Then, you should be able to get the spin basket off. On my inner tub, I used some Rustoleum Primer and Rustoleum gloss black protective paint. I wouldn't go that far if I didn't have to, but it may not be a bad idea to see how that area has held up over the years. It's out of sight, and out of mind for most of us. Yet that's what holds the water and keeps your kitchen floor from flooding with water, detergent, and fabric softener!

Sorry about the bad photo, I didn't have a tripod at the time.

NorfolkSouthern

NorfolkSouthern++10-28-2009-20-16-48.jpg
 
I forgot to mention:

In order to get to the plastic tub ring, there are two snaps that latch the top cabinet assembly in place. First, tape the lid down. then, use a putty knife to push in each side and it'll unlatch. The top will now open like the hood of a car. Now you can marvel at all the hoses, wires, and other do-dads!

NorfolkSouthern
 
Oh No!

Am not mechanically inclined enough to handle taking apart and such of this washer. When time comes for an overhaul, will call for repairman. Have a set of pumps on the way that fit this unit, should the need arise of course, but that is about far as one is going.

L.
 
If your machine works and doesn't leak

Then I wouldn't worry so much about it. But if you ever do need to fix it, there is quite a bit of info here. I fully intend to keep mine, so I can help others who come across these fine little critters. They're just so darn cute! Now, if I just had a decent video camera and editing software.

NorfolkSouthern
 
Very nice machine! Launderess...
I know you will enjoy it.
I only had a chance once in my life to use a portable washer, I have got the washer from and artist for 50 buck's.. A Sanyo pulse wash disk washer for my mother. We loved it at the time because we where in a little apartment it stayed in a closet in the hallway. I would drag it across the hallway and thru the carpet to the kitchen sink...And hook it up and adjust the temp for the wash cycle, warm for most loads and after the fill change it to cold for the rinses. The machine was very quit but a real twister, I would do at least nine loads a session. And then take them to the basement where they where a pair of G.E. coin op's 35 cent's to dry.
Ooh well the washing was fun in the house ... But the drying was not lol.
Well that was in the 80's, Now my mother is in a high rise apartment and it has not changed to much, I have to go down the basement from the ninth floor to do my mom's laundry and they have all Whirlpool laundry and a one front load
Speed Queen washer...Half card system.. and the Speed Queen takes coins.
What will you wash in that little pool ?

Darren k.
 
If you were willing to use the putty knife to release the two clips and raise the top, you could not only scrub the top ring of the outer tub or run it through the DW, but you could also go to an auto parts store or go online and buy some pads of heavy duty sound damping insulation and put it on the inside walls of the cabinet.
 
Ok, Next Saga! A Leak,. A LEAK!

Drain hose arrived today and therefore was able to complete the putting on new hoses and running the washer through all it's paces, full stop.

Timer works well, that is cycles do what the are supposed to do, and machine fills and drains without a problem

Let the machine fill with hot water and put a few bottles of Dishwasher Magic in the tub (to clean and sanitise, after all you never know where second had washers have been! *LOL*), and while the machine was going about it's business, got busy myself with some housework, then I spied it! A leak, well more to the point water on the floor under the washer. Quickly slid a "wee-wee" pad one had on hand just in case, under the offending area, then reached under and felt around the bottom of the washer. The right hand side feels a bit moist, but it is not like water is pouring out of the machine.

When checked the pad after about 10mins (machine is off, however tub still full of water doing a "soak"), while there is a bit of dampness, again not like the machine has a full frontal leak, perhaps more like a drip?

Also am running the washer empty with full water level, could this "leak" just be water splashed about up and over the tub rims and worked it's way down the side of the cabinet?

Or, should one get the seller on the phone and have him by his short and curlies?

TIA

L.
 
*Update*

Figured after doing all that work with installing the hoses and cleaing/sanitising, since the washer was out might as well do some wash.

Why didn't anyone tell me? One just wasn't ready!

Am gobsmacked how this little guy washes and rinses! Had forgotten all about the joys of Whirlpool toploaders with "Surgilators". Our dear MaMa had a Whirlpool when on was a wee thing, black agitator and all, but that was long ago.

Anyway, really have to get a video camera and a YouTube account to upload some vids. This little guy just goes to TOWN.

A mixed load of about five or six items: thick and thirsty heavy terry towels, washcloths, and handtowels were no match for this agitator. Turnover was excellent and robust, spin between wash and rinse smooth as a baby's bottom (no out of balance banging), and even with just one rinse the water was clear. Did do a second rinse, but now know that is not always required.

As for the leaking: so far nothing more. Felt under the unit whislt is was washing the towels and the "wee-wee" pad was dry as was underneath the unit. So perhaps it was water being splashed about by using a full tub of water without laundry, going down the inside of the cabinet. My Hoover TT will do the same if water splashes down where the hoses come out of the cabinet.

L.
 
First, you'll need to determine how the water got there. So, I would drain the machine and let it fill again, making sure the hookups are tight and after the area is thoroughly dried. Then, I would let it fill without agitation and see what the results are. If there is any water present after that, you might have to take the cabinet off. Also, check the suds level. Sometimes, there could be some overflow that could cause this, as there is usually a plastic baggie hooked on the tub ring that guides the excess suds to the side of the mechanism. If you manage to run a regular load through and don't find a problem, then chances are it could be from sloshing or slashing.

Upload some photos of what it's doing, if you can.

NorfolkSouthern
 
I guess I was a little late. But thankfully, evidence points to sloshing and maybe some of it could be from hooking it up. I look forward to seeing your video, Launderess.

NorfolkSouthern
 
Hey Norfolk Southern!

Thanks for the advice and suggestions!

Just took the first load out of the washer and moved it to see if there was water undeneath, and there was a small puddle, and water did drip along the floor as I moved the machine back into position. However do not know if this water came from eariler cleaning cycles, or during the wash that just completed. One thing, this water was clear (my floors are polished so water tends to bead up), not cloudy or "suds".

Am using professional Tide detergent (stuff sold for use in hotels and such for doing linens and bedding), and being a "HE" detergent there aren't any suds. This water was also cold, and one used "Hot" for the washes, though did use cold for the rinses. Am dosing about 1/4 cup of detergent, 1/2 tablespoon of STPP and 1/4 cup of liquid oxygen bleach.

Just went over to the unit and moved it whilst it was washing another load (no easy feat) and floor under the unit seems dry, at least no new signs of water.

Will keep an eye on things and see how it goes. Several things come to mind. Either my first guess about water splashing about and down the insides of the cabinet during the cleaning cycle made it's way to the floor. Or, water from the spray rinses is really flying and also working it's way down (not likely). Could also be a leak from the pump, but that would always be in the same area and usually reflects whatever water is passing through the pump.

Have three NIB FSP/Whirlpool pumps on the way, which according to the model numbers at least two are three port and will work with this machine. So if the worse comes to the worse, am prepared on that front.

Will keep the group posted as things develop. Have at least three if not four more loads of bath linens to get done, so there will be plenty of chances to see where things are going.

Have to see if my digital camera is charged enough for a few snaps.

L.
 
Oh, About The Hoses

Nary a drop of water from either the fill or drain hose, nor the capped off hot water inlet.

Cold water hose and hot water cap were put on just as one was taught: a dab of "plumber's grease" on each end, hand twisted on, then tightened with a wrench GENTLY until there was just a wee bit of resistance. Drain hose got the same plumber's grease treatment but used the hose clamps with bunny ears (have a ton laying about from my Hoover parts stash), and it's on snug as bug.

L.
 
Sweet Success!

The best clues are: No new water........Found water was clear.

I'll bet you a Surgilator that all your machine hygiene ministrations, colonics, disinfectants, and especially the multiple, clothes-free, full cycle, full water level flushes caused the teeny weeny puddle on your immaculate, high-gloss floors, oh you Hyacinth Boquet Number Two.

LOL, tickled pink, and very relieved.
 
The Truth Is Rarely Simple & Never Pure

Ok, after about five loads of wash, everything was done and started to put the washer away.

After disconnecting the hoses, drained each into a small tub so as not to leak water when they are wrapped around the holder on back of the unit. The water intake hose was fine, but look what came out of the drain hose as it was emptied:

Launderess++10-30-2009-22-05-55.jpg
 
Ok, from an old washer, one expected a few problems, and from reading NorfolkSouthern's adventures with his unit was some what prepared (did manage to nab several NIB pumps), and now will have to call the man in to see what there is to be done.

When moving the washer,there was a small puddle of water, nothing near as bad as the first time, and not from the first area (right hand side of the machine). Water did make drops on the floor as unit was moved into storage, but those could have come from the water hoses as they dripped.

Now, what could be the source of all this grit,rust flakes and general flith?

One: the previous owners weren't the cleanest of persons and the accumulated gunk and sand from their laundry was flushed out by my "sanitising/weak acid" wash.

Two: The pump is going, but unless it is made from all metal, there shouldn't be that much rust and bits coming from inside.

Three: As NorfolkSouthern suggested up thread, there is rust inside the tubs and perhaps weak areas that are flaking off.

Seems to be the best theory is a blend of two and three. Judging from the parts diagrams, the pump is on the left side of the unit, just away from the agitator. The rust and "gunk" are bits coming from the inner tub.

Thoughts?

L.
 
Some of that rust could also be coming from the pump valve, Laundress. Also, when I run mine, I do get a little flaking from time to time from the black Rustoleum I sprayed inside the outer tub. But that doesn't compromise its cleaning abilities, and nothing I know of turned up on my cloths. Besides, why would I want to eat my socks anyway? I guess it's all good. I may go back in and do some more sealing one of these days, and that should hold it real good.

The best way to tell if a pump valve is bad, is if it starts draining some during agitation. That's when the seal gets compromised by the deteriorating plate, and then it's time to replace the pump. When you do get ready to do that procedure, be sure to post an update. There is a trick to getting the pulley off, using a coat hanger and I would rather you do it right the first time.

Meanwhile, I guess I need to find some more spare pumps.

NorfolkSouthern
 
Oh I Won't Be Doing These Repairs

Know the limits of my talents, and as this unit has many NLA parts, don't want any problems.

Will see how things go the next few times the unit is used, at least until the new pumps arrive. Then if required will send for a repairman to do whatever needs to be done.

According to the seller, this unit was used fairly often right up until the date of sale, so it is like there was water sitting stagnant.

Am going to have to modify my STPP use with this machine, as apparently high sodium content water can make rusting parts worse.
 

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