HELP Speed Queen Wringer

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I think the seller is bluffing you when she said she's reported you to ebay. She is the one who has gone outside of ebay rules by inducing you to cancel the ebay sale, refunding your paypal pymt. (if that's how you originally paid) and then completing a private sale with you outside of ebay. This way she makes more as she doesn't pay ebay any commission on the sale. I don't think she would want ebay to know this. I believe that ebay might ban her from future sales for this. I totally agree with Allen in reply #28, but I would still report her to ebay, if for no other reason than to prevent her from taking advantage of anyone else. From the sound of her attitude she is likely an old hand at this kind of subterfuge.
Eddie
 
Don't let the seller try to scare you off. You become the aggressor in this case. Let him/her know that you are not going away until this is resolved. Make them think that you will follow them to the ends of the earth to get this resolved and your money refunded.

Eddie is right. These people will not report you to Ebay because THEY were the ones that violated the Ebay rules in the first place.

I have always said that there are certain types of people who will lay awake at night just thinking up ways to scam the Ebay system. This seller seems to be one of those.
 
Sadly do not believe eBay can or will do much.

If OP had stuck with sending money via PayPal things might be different; as he could either get them involved and or file a dispute with his CC for a charge-back.

However several points arise.

First seller listed the unit as being sold "As Is", though did claimed it "worked". As is translates into you better be darn sure whatever you are getting is what you want and does what it is supposed to; otherwise you are SOL.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Spe...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

My guess is the seller didn't want to pay PayPal's fees and or had problems with them thus wanted all her money and found it easier to get it via check.

During the run up and afterwards to eBay and PayPal splitting lots of strange things were happening. For instance having sold various things on and off eBay and never having a problem accepting PalPal. Then all of a sudden PP was placing holds on funds sent to pay for winning bids *and* requiring me to give them all sorts of personal and banking information. They claimed it was needed to verify myself/account and wouldn't release funds until had done so. They were also placing further holds for "X" amount of days post sale to allow for transit and receipt of goods sold. Along with presumably time for buyer to file a complaint if anything was wrong. You found many complaints about this on both eBay's internal forums and elsewhere.

Again with $300 or so clams on the table seller may have had reasons for circumventing PP and going for cash/check. Why else would she refund money and ask for him to send payment via mail? PP is vastly more secure than a check which can be stopped or whatever.

Seller seems to have a decent enough feedback record (over 600 positive with nearly nil recent negative), so will give benefit of the doubt she wasn't truly out to screw someone over.

Buying anything online sight unseen is a crap shoot. Vintage appliances more so because, well you know...

Fact of the matter is few sellers truly know what they've got. This can work out to our benefit as I myself have acquired some great deals (the AEG set for a start) from people who were clueless. The downside of course is if they don't know how something is supposed to operate they cannot vouch for it being completely functional.

Chris, I feel your pain and have been there and done that. From a mangle that arrived from Germany in bits (major shipping damage), to a Whirlpool portable with a major leak, to the Mobile Maid dw with several issues; have had my share of appliance gyp. Am getting ready to strip down a Frigidaire ironer that one paid good money to ship and barely used but is now suffering from stripped gears.

By all means hound this seller to do right by you; but OTOH look at the glass as half full. You do have what appears to be a good looking wringer washer. Am in the camp that does not believe it needs a new gear box/trannie. If SQ washers out there decades older than yours *and* were used heavily are still running, that machine unless someone did something to it should be fine.
 
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Update #2

I have removed the wringer, trying to remove the tub to see whats going on underneath, THe drain was (is) full of sand, I removed all the bolts holding the Agitator shaft in, but cannot get it to come out, It is a work in Progress, the seller told me never to contact her again, that the machine was in excellent working condition when it was picked up, I beg to differ.. But anyways, I will work hard to get it working, A huge thank you to everyone here for lending me support and kind words. I will post pics of the maiden wash, and if anyone is around Orlando (Winter Park) feel free to stop by, a second set of eyes is always better...
Chris
 
Am no expert

But sounds to me like something is wrong with the clutch.

"To control the clutch it is desirable that some means be provided to be readily accessible to the operator and with this in mind a clutch shift lever 42 is pivoted at 43 in suitable bearings 44 on the cross bar or member 11 so that the forked end 45 thereof embraces the clutch sleeve 41, bearing lugs 46 being provided to fit within the groove 47 of the clutch sleeve. This clutch shifting lever 42 can be moved to the two extreme positions illustrated by the full and dotted lines illustrated in Fig. 2 and will throw the clutch in or will throw the clutch out, as'desired.

To permit manual operation and setting of the clutch I provide a clutch shifting rod 4'] slidably mounted in one of the legs 2 and a clutch shifting handle 48 on this rod 47 is disposed to be readily accessible from the outside of the encasing structure 49 which is ordinarily used to enclose the tub or container 1. A fork 50 on clutch shifting lever 42 is received around clutch shifting rod 47 and springs 51 and 52 are provided on opposite sides to stabilize the clutch shifting lever as rod 4'7 is adjusted. To hold adjustments of the clutch shifting rod 4'1,- an arrangement as illustrated in Fig. 10 may be used, and as here shown the handle 48 extends through aslot 53 I and the rod may be engaged in notches 54 and 55 at its two extremes of movement. Any other approved structure might be employed to operate the clutch shifting lever and retain adjustments of the same.

In the use of my improved mechanism the motor 10 will constantly drive shaft 29 and consequently drive gear 2'7 will be continuously rotated, a direct connection being accomplished vto wringer shaft 36 through gear 35. As the drive gear 27 is rotated, pitman rod 38 will be constantly actuated through its eccentric mounting between the two extremes of movement as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, and arcuated rocking lever 18 will be correspondingly rocked. This will cause the two links to be alternately wound and unwound around the stub shaft 13 as a center, in consequence of which the bifurcated arm 22 will be swung to oscillate driven member 14 through greater than 180 degrees of movement, the actual movement thus attainable with efficiency being substantially an oscillatory movement of 220 degrees or better. As the links 18 and 24 alternately wind and unwind around the stub shaft 13 there will be no interference of any part with another part and in consequence a smooth, even, oscillatory movement will be imparted to member 14 continuously-during operation of the rotating gear or member 27. Through manipulation of the clutch sleeve 41, the agitator shaft 4 can be readily connected and disconnected at the will of the operator.

With thisconstruction and arrangement of the parts, the mechanism is extremely simple and inexpensive to manufacture and assemble, there being no special crank shafts, racks, or gears associated with the agitator shaft, and as all of the parts can be cast and finished according to ordinary manufacturing processes, a much simpler and cheaper structure is obtained than where racks, gears, segments and the like are required. Further, as cylindrical bearings and corresponding openings can be finished and fitted with extreme accuracy, 9. very smooth running and quiet operation mechanism is provided. "
http://www.google.com/patents/US1964440

With the control knob set to "On" see if you can nudge the gear into place.

SQ had a lifetime warranty on their wringer washer transmissions and about the same on the clutch system. Both were tested under stress and designed to last lifetime of the machine. Thus it would seem odd a fairly low use machine like yours would have stripped gears or whatever. Am still guessing something was knocked lose or is gummed up.
 
Launderess,

I think something is going haywire with the switch and clutch operation,
When the tub is out the clutch operates fully extended nad the switch doesnt turn all the way around, but when I re installed the tub it doesnt lift all the way up to engage it, and the switch just spins around. Its almost like the clutch isnt letting it engage to operate when the tub is installed. I will tackle it more tomorrow afternoon.. Thank you a million times over again for all your help, I owe you big time,,,
Chris
 
Chris

Wonder if you pull the tub and rotate it, and place back in, then check switch.. Keep rotating..
Somethings binding up the switch when the tub is in. Almost like something is out of round? Or switch needs to be on one position or another when the tub is being dropped in?
Can't possibly be a worn transmission!
 
Tub,

I am going to pull the tub again today and try everything, Hopefully something will work, the gears turn great when its plugged in without the tub, the arming lever lifts up high, but as soon as the tub is back in, the on-off switch doenst seem to engage fully, Thanks everyone for all the advice and help, she will be running soon, just like the ad said, lol....
 
Shifting gears..

Chris,
I think that you may have to take the drive sleeve off of the agitator shaft and put back on to the shaft on the transmission between the shifting forks.

I sent you an email response to the picture where you can see one of the forks that raise and lower the sleeve to drive the agitator.

If both forks are there, then put the sleeve in between them and make sure it moves up and down. Then you should be able to reassemble the shaft to the transmission and it should lock in when you select agitate.

If the shift sleeve is stuck on the agitator shaft, that would explain why you could not get the parts out of the tub. And that will need to be addressed as well.

Keep us posted.
 
Thank you, Laundress

For the link to the Patent Application for the transmission on this washer. I had contacted SQ for a parts diagram but they said nothing was available anymore and offered how the transmission would engage the Agitator shaft. Which is what I had suspected all along and the patent drawings confirmed just how simple a design was actually needed to make it all work.

Basically a shifting yoke moves a drive sleeve up or down to engage or disengage the agitator shaft to the transmission.
A design so simple and robust, we still use it in automotive transmissions and many other applications.
Thanks again.
 
@stevet

YW.

That is the original patent design for washers made by Borg Seelig. Do not know if any changes were made over the years including the later models such as Laundryboy has now.

Both Maytag and Speed Queen seems to have put great effort into refining the art and making their conventional washers built to last. Probably explains why there are so many still lying about.
 
Leaking,

I did the same as in the post, went to Autozone got the Cork-Rubber, traced the original gaskets made new ones, use the hole punch for the holes, replaced them. It was a pain to get the tub to line up with the holes, almost need 2 people to get it done. I took off some of the gears off the bottom of the agitator shaft, placed it onto the gears on the tranny, then it began to agitate, although the switch doesnt turn it off, it just keeps agitatin when its plugged in. I have to remove the pump now, it doesnt seem to work. I put a little water in the tub after I got it all back together and it leaked like a siv. I think I might have to redo the gaskets, and really tighten the bolts down more. the water just pours right out.
I might tackle it more this Saturday. I might just make it a gravity drain..
 
Launderess.....

I solved the pump issue, it works good as new, the poor mice list their home, or former home. Now just have to make new cork gaskets and seal it up and we are back in Business, minus the on - off switch, I dont mind it just running when plugged in....
 
No ON / OFF Switch

On my Grandmother's Speed Queen and on my Maytag wringer, there is no ON/OFF switch for the power. The switch marked ON/OFF on our SQ was for the agitator. The ON/OFF for the motor is the plug. Plug it in and the motor is on. Unplug it and it's off. Most wringers are like that.
 
I should have said the agitation switch, not the on off switch, Everything works like its suppose to now, tomorow will be the maiden wash with a tub full of hot water...

ps I replaced the agitator with my Kenmore one, if anyone has a Kenmore agitator top they would like to sell, the one that is black, small, looks like it has dimples around the outside, please let me know..
Chris
 
Good for you. You never know what you can do until you try..

I knew what you meant at least about the "switch". Don't think any wringer washers came with an "off" and "on" switch. Just various switches to engage the agitator and or pump (if there was one).

Mice in the pump? Eeeeeeeeeeeeewww. Thank goodness wringer washers are solid tub, so you just have to wash the thing out with hot water and perhaps a light disinfectant if you are that worried about germs. I like to do something to machines when received, well because you don't know where they've been do you?
 
First wash

So I did a first wash of towels, it was working great, then the agitator switch stopped working again. but the agitator keeps running. So I had to wring the towels out with the agitator running. I think the bearing came out of the lifting mech to make it stop when turned off. I did take some pics, let me try to upload them..

laundryboy++5-23-2016-11-35-35.jpg
 
Looking good!

Well the hardest part was getting it to agitate so that is one hurdle over. Then to make it drain..2nd hurdle over.
Probably the most important was the waterproof seal. Done and another home run for you, Chris.
We know that the agitate handle/lever and sleeve is hanging up somewhere but if you have to wring and agitate and not damage is done to the machine, so be it for now.

Sent you an email earlier on this too.
Great Job! Your perseverance paid off!
 
Chris, good for you! Welcome to the wonderful world of ultra clean clothes in your Speed Queen wringer. Make sure you use plenty of water. A good way to judge the amount of water to use is to use the lines on the agitator. If you have any questions on how to wring buttons and zippers I can help you out. YEA! Gary
 
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