Henckel Persil, Lever Persil, Ariel..... which? where?

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Look, as a collector of vintage linens as my mother was I can tell you the biggest deal is to grab rust stained items for norhing or as much as 1€ at flea markets and during time I have experienced my method to bring them to life again, really simple, , smal spots of rust usually get clean with an hot wash 140f in the filter flo with good detergent, or soap with addition of percarbonate, perborate, , blood always comes out, no matter how old or dry it is, never had a problem...
But I could grab splendid bed sheets and table clothes where rust totally became part of the fabric and you could feel the hardness of the iron to be stuck in the clothing, they usually comes out with alos as iron became part of clothing..
I treat them like this:
To weaken the extra rust I do a wash with plenty of detergent 3-4 scoops in hot water 140f ( my water supply reach 150f).... I do stop machine for an overnight soak...
Let it compete cycle the next day...
Get it out the washer, check that it is enough weakened, start machine again and as soon as the washer filled I treat the stain with a specific product for rust called "rapida" togliruggine (italian product) and toss in the washer quickly.... It's the best product I could use...
It is fluoridric acid and if it sits too long it will weaken the clothing, but it is a kind of product that somehow is safe to be used on colors and does not damage them if you make sure you immediately toss the clothing in the machine with water in the first minutes.... Not any damage or weakening of the treated point....
I brought to life again linens ane clothes that most of commercials laundries my friends or relatives could bring them to, renounced to get clean.....
Another stain that most friends bring to me is mold, I succed in removing it just fine with an hot wash, nothing more, thing that with my big surprise says they cannot manage to do..... This obviously when it is not so much attached badly and turned to be all the fiber to be mold...then you cannot do anything, well mold goes away but you get an hole where first you had mold....as it is washed away like dirt is...

All this to say that if really you cannot get it away with a wash, you may try the fluoridric product....I attach a link, can send you some if you want...it fits in an envelope, it should not cost much to ship, but I bet in the US you can find equivalent stuff....
 
For rust stains, you are supposed to use Citric Acid (lemon juice).

I would NOT be using Hydrofluoric Acid!!!

This is highly dangerous stuff. It even reacts with glass, apparently. There was an article years ago in some television programme, where mention was made of vehicle fires. Apparently, the heat of the flames is such that rubber hoses, which used fluorine in manufacture, formed this acid. Once on the human body, the only action was amputation of the affected limb.
 
Hmmm...

About now is the time we should see the post about how "wonderful" cold water washing is:
Perhaps you should try it, it gets all my stuff "perfectly clean!" And it saves energy. *Kidding*

If you have whites, bleach.
Colours or Whites: Oxy bleach at median temperature, the use the affected area is a curtain to sun bleach it.
I know you didn't want this - but desperate times call for desperate matters
 
Rolls......, Rain is not dangerous, but a monsoon can kill you....
Citric acid is fresh water for rust stains like that, and the lemon juice has little concentrations of it, for what concerns dangerousnees of hydrofluoric, it's not like you are supposed to use it pure, any acid or alkaline stuff is potentially dangerous if pure, even cloridric acid you also find in limescale cleansers like viakal etc... if in bigger concentration will not remove limescale from your toilet, it will totally melt it, just think we use 90% solution in our company to make pure gold as it dissolves all metals except gold, also have you ever heard about mafia using it to dissolves bodies? Could you do that with Viakal???? LOL
But in fair concentration will get your bowl clean, and is safe any use for which domestic/cleaning is supposed to be used to...
Same is here, the product I linked is perfectly okay to be used on clothing and even colored ones, as you can read, but it's an acid and it is best to do not let it sit too much and you got to' flush it immediately from clothing, so you bettter alteady fill your machine before for the 2nd wash, the product has a concentration of 15% acid, if I remember correctly.
If it was not so, it would melt your item not only remove rust, sure is that it is a chemical, and you have to use precautions, ie use gloves if your skin is delicate, avoid stiffing it in your nose or drops to reach your eyes....etc...
Pretty much all things that a normal functioning adult would do, and like you do for any other chemical you use in your household...
 
Thanks all, getting a pretty good picture. I definitely let some of these stains go too long before acting upon them for 'normal' household chemistry to sort. I'll take that loss. Plenty of t-shirts, none of the 'collectible' ones are affected. I'm not going all retentive on the few remaining manchas. Think they will weaken with time.

Besides, I'm old. When someone asks "what's that on your shirt?" (they have) I just say it's blood, I have skin cancer. EVERYbody in this institution has SOMEthing. Not to be overly gruesome, but somebody dies here roughly every other month.
 
For rust stains...

I personally recommend, trying to use "oxalic" acid, which can be found in bar keepers friend. It's gentle, but, it's the strongest chemical (that i know of) capable of removing rust. 

 

Just make a paste of BKF & Water, and it should come out. I do hear vinegar can also work in a pinch. 
 
Yes, right, also oxalic acid works, it's another kind of acid usually found in liquid rust removers like products above.
But not sure how much this one safe is to use on colors, always went with the hydrofluoride.
I just came to see hydrofluoridic preparation is safe for colors, does not affect them so I stick with it, should give a try to oxalic on colors ro see reaction...

Any acid will work on iron, acetic, citric etc and so on, so they will work on minerals build up etc.... You just better choose which one works best for every specific use... Some works best on metals, others for minerals etc...
For light rust stains some folks use to put lemon juice or vinegar and cover with salt... but those are the kind of stains that I usually get out with the wash, for really heavy stains they does not work so great like products specific for rust like oxalic or hydrofluoridic can do...
 

Similar threads

G
Detergent and Additives for my UNIMAC 28 gallon cold rinser
Replies
6
Views
10
adam-aussie-vac
adam-aussie-vac
sudsomatic
P&G ERA Detergent disappearing from stores
Replies
9
Views
36
iheartmaytag
iheartmaytag
lordkenmore
Tide Simply Plus Oxi
Replies
8
Views
9
launderess
launderess
L
Persil or Ariel for Whites?
Replies
15
Views
38
paulc
paulc
P
UK detergent report (returned yesterday)
Replies
4
Views
5
passatdoc
P

Latest posts

Back
Top