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Further testing

Thanks. Yeah the baffle might be the problem. I'll look into it later.

I've read another post where you talked about the connections to the circuit board.
Mine are actually in decent shape. I've checked all of the connectors on the board as well as the spade connections on the selector panel. Everything looks clean.
I am getting erratic readings in K ohms across the capacitor when probed. (disconnected from the board).

Yeah I noticed the selector is newer...made in mexico caught my eye.

The last time i remember servicing was for the door switch. The tech tried to get my Dad to buy a new dryer. I recall my Dad saying, "Either you fix it or I'll find someone who will."

Can't recall when the selector switch was replaced. Only other servicing was belts, that I'm aware of. It's been a reliable unit.

Thx.
 
ps...

I notice that if I physically move the solenoid bar to the right (as in photo) the dryer goes into cool down mode and shuts off.

As for other maintenance, I recall my dad changed the spade connector at the ballast, the blue one. He was checking it out after my mom said that the console light wasn't working.
 
Dominick, I think you can do this, but you're jumping all over instead of following the advice of the diagnostic procedures, and you're ignoring the evidence that is telling you what is wrong and how to isolate it.

As John notes, you've already proven that the capacitor is functioning - you verified this yourself. So why keep looking for a replacement, or pull yours for additional tests?

The chime is an important diagnostic aid. Don't be so quick to dismiss the chime as having "nothing to do with dryer operation"... The solenoid which rings the chime is also the solenoid that tugs the control switch to the off position, so a fault there (electrical, mechanical binding, misalignment, out of adjustment) could easily cause other problems.

Please read and understand what others are saying to help you. When John says "There is likley a slight short in the baffle circuit, it could be in a baffle, the wiring or the slip ring might be slightly grounded.", he means just that. When you say "Yeah the baffle might be the problem" and dive into a dozen other things, you're focusing on a part instead of a condition, and missing the point entirely on what the next step would be to fix it.
 
Thanks Dave. I'm good with my hands but a bit of a babe in the deep end with appliances.

My reason for questioning the cap is that K ohm readings across the cap are really erratic. I'm not very familiar with capacitors, although the test charge across them should eventually drop to infinity, which it did not do with that cap. Otherwise the other tests I performed indicate it's acting normally.

Agreed about what you indicate for the chime, however the solenoid is rather loud when it's activated. If you look at my photo of the selector there is a broken piece of the plate which probably connected the chime mechanism. I did check the solenoid mechanism for binding but neglected to mention that in my previous post. Thx for bringing that up.

Sorry for not tracing the logic of advice as well as I could be...just a bit outta my league, for now... I hope. heh.

By way of the linkage, you're referring to the paper clip looking linkage?

Thanks a bunch.
 
Yep, the paperclip looking part.

Here's a good picture I found, posted by Mark in this thread:
"DE 806 won't shutoff"
(https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?64970)

You can see that when the clip is oriented correctly, the pull on the switch will be much more horizontal, and it won't interfere with the switch anymore. I almost wonder if someone purposely clipped the end of your switch off, so that the linkage would fit the wrong way?

lowefficiency-2019010520254700796_1.jpg
 
Slip Ring

After a bit of reading and hopefully some comprehension I'm still struggling to understand how the slip ring works. I've read Mark's posts and will re-read. If I'm getting this correct, the slip ring is isolated from the chassis, drum etc. via the felt ring beneath. Therefore, there should be no continuity to the chassis.

I noticed that the ring had shifted and seemed to be in contact with the drum. As Drew mentioned in another thread he lightly sanded with 400 and I did the same with some Emory I have. It was rather clean but wanted to give it a buffing.

There is continuity between the ring and the drum, blower housing etc. Am I correct in thinking that there shouldn't be? I checked continuity with the spade connector removed.

The other question is does this ring/brush setup eventually deliver the charge to the capacitor? If so then the continuity to the chassis will bleed charge to ground and not to the cap.

I notice a little give between the slip ring and the felt. If I need to reposition it away from potential grounding at the drum, how should that be accomplished? I'm concerned that I'll damage the felt, which is in decent shape BTW.

Thanks to all for your help. You're the best. :)
 
Thanks. What is the best way to reposition the ring without damaging the felt or the edge of the ring? I notice that I can rotate the ring on the felt. Maybe gently use the flat side of a screwdriver to move it away from the drum?

Thx.
 
Success!

I managed to carefully reposition the slip ring away from any contact and checked continuity. Took John's suggestion of using some high temp glue so the ring maintains the correct position.

Also as Dave recommended, the reversed the linkage. Now with improved alignment.

All settings operate normally.

Many thanks for all the guidance!

naturalnick-2019010718195607626_1.jpg

naturalnick-2019010718195607626_2.jpg

naturalnick-2019010718195607626_3.jpg
 
Chime not working

Dave. The chime hasn't worked in decades. I can't see a striker or anything that would enable the chime to sound. Is there a separate mechanism that strikes the bell? Post a photo if you have one. In the diagram you posted, I don't see any mechanism that would chime.

In the solenoid and selector photo I posted part of the switch is broken as you pointed out. Is this where the chime strike would be located?
 
Thanks John! Your help is invaluable! And Dave's as well (esp. In keeping me focused).

I'm thinking of keeping the Maytag. It has always worked beautifully. I have a very short dryer run and there has been no accumulation of lint.

The new dryer has been delivered but I didn't let them take the Maytag. The GE is decent but I think the Maytag is a superior machine.

If I let it go, I know I'll regret it.
By the way, the very existence of this forum is nothing short of a godsend!
 
It's a bit hard to see in the diagram, but the striker is part 54157 / 52690. It would be a piece of metal (I think just a basic screw?) on the end of either a short piece of flexible wire or plastic.

If you have the space and electrical capacity, you should hook both dryers up! One washer with two dryers is a very favorable combination due to the imbalance of time it takes to wash and dry.
 
"Ask not for whom the bell tolls."

Dave,
Previously, I couldn't understand how the chime mechanism operated. Enlarging the photo once again and from your description, I can only quote Ernest Hemingway. Thank you!
I hope you can see the link.

 

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