HOH parts

[vintagelover]

Hi all. I recently purchased a house that had all vintage TOL appliances. Maytag HOH dryer built in November 1971 won't shut off automatically. Have read posts re possible solutions but can't seem to find any parts to replace with. Any suggestions?
Also own a tappan gas stove (looking for griddle) and a kitchen aid energy saver v Superba. Dishwasher is installed in a 4 foot metal cabinet. So cool!!!

 

[kenmore71]

Have you done the following diagnostic tests to try and ascertain where the problem is? You want to do the tests for the BAR BAFFLE design. (See following posts)

From my experience (which is limited), 90% of the problems with these machines stem from either a short to ground in the baffle wiring system or a failed electronic control capacitor. The wiring problen is easy enough to trace out. The capacitor can be replaced with somthing similar for $5-$10 from an audio electronics supply house. It is possible that there is something more complicated wrong with the innards of the electronic dry control but that is the last thing to look at and is the least likely.

 

[kenmore71]

Here's the Electrical schematic for this dryer.
The original rating for the electrolytic capacitor was 8uF.
If you replace the capacitor is should be with a polyestor or some other "film" type capacitor. Based on extensive experiments last summer, I would recommend somewhere between a 7 and 10 uF capacitor. Make sure it is rated for at least 100 volts DC. The ones I used were rated for 250 volts.

This drawing is for a gas dyer. The electric one isn't significantly different. You just substitute the heating element for the gas valve and realize that the other end of the heating element connects to the other "hot" leg instead of neutral. All of the other stuff is identical.

 

[maytagbear]

Another HOH "trick"

is that sometimes the sensors in the drum vanes get gunked up with softener sheets.

Take an absolutely clean, slightly damp (water) cloth with texture (maybe terrycloth) and really rub the vanes, and do this to the three of them, changing parts of the cloth with each vane.

I HAD a HOH dryer, and I did this every so often, and it helped a lot.

I agree with the Maytag document about grounding, as well.

Best of luck, I think the HOH is a good dryer. Mine lasted for nearly 20 years.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[goatfarmer]

Check the ground, it needs a seperate ground from the cabinet to a water pipe, etc.

 

[simplicity345]

tappan griddle

I Have Some Tappan Stove Tefflon Griddle Any Questions You May Email Me @ [email protected] And I Will Get Back To You I Believe These Are The Kind That Goes Over The Burners

 

[kenmore71]

The ground is NOT the issue when it won't shut off. The fact that the capacitor is not building up enough charge to flash the neon tube means that it IS grounding just fine.

If the dryer is shutting off prematurely than it is often a grounding issue.

 

[volvoguy87]

Chime.

I believe the chime is integral to the shutoff mechanism. Does your chime work?

Dave

 

[kenmore71]

Good point Dave! If it's chiming but not shutting off then there are a different set of issues to look at...

 

[vintagelover]

Now there's no heat

The bell never did chime, and as of last night, there is no heat. Am getting frustrated.

 

[sel8207]

same problem

I have the same problem of dryer running continuously, not shutting off ,even when door is open. Looked at the ground siutation and ran dedicated ground wire from frame to house ground. Placed on damp dry with nothing in it to see if it would shut off and it didn't. Bell doesn't chime either. It's KDE806 dryer. Loooked and at removed capacitor. It doesn't have a positive or negative side to it. I looked up an 8uF, 250 volt capacitor, and can buy it but would be clueless as to which end (pos. or neg.)goes where. The capacitor on the machine has the two brown wires coming from it and and it says; maytag 3-1929 and under that 60-24227. The schematic above doesn't clarify the issue for me because both wires are brown and it doesn't show which side is pos. or neg. (but the schematic does help out a lot) And I know if you hook up the polarity wrong there could be a serious damage to the capacitor. Any information would help. thanks much, Les

 

[cornutt]

If you use the right kind of capacitor (film or polyester), they are non-polarized so it doesn't matter which way you connect them. Don't get an electrolytic capacitor.

 

[kenmore71]

As mentioned, there is no polarity to these types of capacitors. Either terminal can be connected to either spot on the electronic control.

However, I think you may have other issues. If the dryer doesn't shut off when the door is opened how do you turn it off at all? Do you unplug it? Does the drum light come on when you open the door?

The grounding issue is irrelevant to this situation. Bad grounding causes the machine to shut off early as it doesn't allow the wet clothes to "short" the capacitor circuit to ground.

Run-on is caused by a weak capacitor, failed circuitry in the actual electronic control, or a short in the wiring to the drum baffles. Before you pulled the capacitor, did you perform the standard "first" test on the dryness control? That being pulling yellow wire #12 off of the selector switch and seeing if the dryer shuts off in the prescribed times for an empty dryer? If it did shut off properly with wire 12 removed then you have a situation where somewhere between the switch and drum baffles something is shorting to ground.

Does the heat remain on the entire time it's running?

If at some point the heat cycles off but the dryer continues to tumble it's possible that the cool-down thermostat is shorted in the closed position, but I don't think that what you are describing.

If you haven't yet, please take a moment to read this thread that I wrote a few years ago after I did a full restoration of a HOH dryer.
[this post was last edited: 8/10/2014-10:27]

Maytag DG606 Capacitor

Hi, My vintage Maytag DG606 does not shut off after it's activated. The heat cycles correctly so I'm certain that the thermostats are working correctly. The dryer has an electronic controller in it that has a large capacitor on the outside. I was able to test the components inside the...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[sel8207]

problem still

Replaced the capacitor with the one specified. Still doesn't shut off.

Wouldn't know what wire is the #12 yellow as there seem to be three yellows coming out of the control.

Bulb in dryer was obvious burnt out.
Replaced bulb, but it still doesn't come on when you open the door.

Dryer still doesn't shut off under any selection, even with new capacitor.

Don't have schematic or manual for this dryer and can't find one.

I shut off the dryer by turning of circuit breaker to dryer, about 4 feet near the machine.

Suspicious of the door switch, which, I've reached behind the rubber gasket and can't seem to feel anything there. You know, was thinking that a plug had come undone, so forth, and I could plug it back in.
Enough for today. going to bed. As they say, tomorrow is another day. Les (thanks much for your advice.)

 

[kenmore71]

If it's still not shutting off, then the electronic control has failed OR the drum is somehow grounding itself.

 

I'm not sure how much more you can be helped. I posted the schematic in post #2 above. That IS the schematic. There is no other. It is the same as one that would have been glued to the back of the dryer.

 

 There are 8 wires off of the electronic control. Two of them are yellow. Wire #12 is actually marked "12" about every 6 inches along the wire. And it's yellow. The "other" yellow wire off of the electronic control is clearly marked "20". To be honest, for testing purposes it really doesn't matter which wire you remove. Either will remove the slip ring and bar baffles from the circuit and allow the capacitor to charge.

 

If you are that frustrated, I recommend you go and buy and buy a new dryer and have this one made into a new KIA. We have been more than helpful here in responding to your requests.

 

[sel8207]

grateful

Am very grateful for the assistance received here. Can only work on it intermittently due to work, etc. Am sure this can be repaired. It dries great, I just have to use a timer and turn off the feed. Looks good too. Will work on it again soon. Thanks again. Les

 

[sel8207]

grateful

Am very grateful for the assistance received here. Can only work on it intermittently due to work, etc. Am sure this can be repaired. It dries great, I just have to use a timer and turn off the feed. Looks good too. Will work on it again soon. Thanks again. Les

 

[naturalnick]

Maytag KDE 806

Hi all,

I'm having a similar issue. Running tests Mark posted above with the Yellow 12 wire disconnected. Will follow up shortly.

Thanks.
Dominick AKA Natural Nick

 

[naturalnick]

Maytag KDE 806 Test Results

Hi,

Following up on my earlier post:

During normal operation, the dryer shuts off automatically in the air fluff and damp dry modes. It does not shut off automatically in the Permanent Press and Regular cycles. Previously, the dryer seemed to run excessively long during those cycles. At first, just the Regular cycle, then also in the Permanent Press cycle, prior to it not shutting off automatically.

Following the trouble shooting guides Mark posted above, I disconnected the No.12 Yellow Wire and ran the dryer in the prescribed modes:

Damp Dry - Shut off in 10 seconds. The neon light in the control box flashed briefly when shutting off.
Air Fluff Cycle - Solenoid activated and then shut off in 9:45
Regular Cycle - Dryer heats then solenoid activated at approximately 10:20, then cool-down, then shut off.
Permanent Press - Dryer heats then solenoid activated at approximately 16:24, then cool-down, then shut off.

Regarding the neon light in the control box, it does not glow in any setting with the No. 12 wire connected. Checking shorter cycles, due to time constraints, the neon light flashed when shutting off in the damp dry cycle (with the No. 12 wire connected).

Dryer is properly grounded to a water pipe with dielectric fitting.

As described above, I cleaned the drum sensors and they are clean.
I do not use dryer sheets...don't like them. In washer I only use some Epsom salt for softening, when needed.

Regarding the chime. Mine does not and hasn't for a very very long time. Hence, I'm thinking it has nothing to do with dryer operation. I saw that someone posted that the mechanical part for the chime might be in the bottom of the dryer. It wasn't...I looked and even vacuumed the dust out of the unit and off of all electrical contacts.

Reading now about the capacitor. If that's the problem, can you point to a link where I can buy the correct one?

Posted some photos of the back panel components.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks