Hoover 455 (A3072) Washer Overhaul Pt 2

[crouzet951]

Hi folks

Back again with the next instalment. Part 1 is at the link.

This time:

Repair, Replace, & Paint

After a thorough wire brushing of the rusty areas, the tub was cleaned and dried.

Following electron1100's lead, the first step was to apply KURUST to all the rusty areas. This included the front and rear flanges. I did go a bit overboard in this picture.

Hoover 455 (A3072) Washer Overhaul Pt 1

Hi folks My Hoover 455 is now up and running again, and I’ve done my first couple of loads. The delightful spin sound can once again be heard by all the neighbourhood, so everything is good. It hasn’t been totally plain sailing, but what is life without a few setbacks. Hopefully some of this...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[crouzet951]

This also included the rusty drain tube.

 

[crouzet951]

Black Hammerite is being applied to both flanges, and some miscellaneous exterior locations.

 

[crouzet951]

This is the Chemical Metal hole repair. When the instructions say you have five minutes usable time, you really do have five minutes - and no more!

I was trying to make it look a little smoother, but no time. It was also applied to the rust points around the heating element support.

It's a remarkable product.

 

[crouzet951]

The motor parts ready to go back together.

The repairer painted the field windings red when re-baking them. The motor now has a racing stripe. Hehe.

 

[crouzet951]

The commutator came up very well.

 

[crouzet951]

This is the (yellow) tachometer feedback coil that is used by the module to regulate the speeds for tumble and distribute. It uses the round magnet on the shaft as it rotates to create the electrical feedback.

The four screws around the shaft screw into the outer race retaining plate. This is the square plate trapped behind the bearing in the previous image. The plate was originally retained by aluminium rivets, but the bearing kits use these screws. It is a much better arrangement.

It was about two seconds after this picture was taken that I realised the inner race circlip had been left off, so it all had to come off again. Sigh!

 

[crouzet951]

This is an interesting comparison.

The right motor is the UK manufactured motor which was originally fitted to the 455. The left motor is the Australian made motor fitted to the later Aus made front loaders.

The Aus motor was fitted to my washer many years ago as it was cheap (free), and in very good order. The UK motor was getting a bit noisy at the time.

There's not all that much difference, except perhaps for the method of retaining the front and rear brackets. The Aus motor uses shorter screws, though the holes are still there for the longer UK screws.

The UK motor will be disassembled and the rust cleaned up.

 

[crouzet951]

This is the mythical spider kit that finally turned up only last Friday (24 August), after it was ordered more than four weeks before. It is for the later Aus front loaders which do not use the carbon seal and counterface. The triple lip seal is on the right.

The smaller bearing is not correct. It appears to be the commutator end bearing for the main motor, but I had already purchased SKF bearings for the spider, this didn't matter.

 

[crouzet951]

The screws, nyloc nuts, and washers, are stainless steel. The screws are the same size as the screws used to attach the backplate to the outer drum.

 

[crouzet951]

As can be seen, the screw length is irrelevant.

 

[crouzet951]

The heating element cleaned up very well using some kettle decalcifier.

 

[crouzet951]

I decided that if the aluminium trim ring could be removed from the door with little or no damage, the inner and outer door would be stripped and repainted. Luckily the old adhesive holding the ring had come loose for most of the way round, with only a small movement back and forth needed to loosen the last bit. Please note these parts weren't sprayed inside, just dried inside. Hehe.

It almost looks like op art.

 

[crouzet951]

Can you guess what these are? More op art?

 

[crouzet951]

The old paint was stripped off (now that is a pleasant experience), KURUST to the rust, sanded and cleaned, then two coats of primer and two top coats. They came up quite well.

 

[crouzet951]

The previous process was also applied to the inner and outer door, and they also came up well. The trim ring is now held on with Blue-Tack.

It's a little hard to see, but at about the 9.30 position there's a small paint blemish. It was almost literally the last spray stroke of the top coat, when I let the base of the can touch the surface. I couldn't face repeating the process of stripping and painting the outer door, so it was touched up manually.

 

[crouzet951]

It was actually quite difficult to think of something to use for the module cover.

I finally decided to use an A3 laminating pouch, after it had been laminated with nothing inside. It was about 10mm shorter than the original, but that was solved by only attaching it with two holes instead of four.

A hollow punch was used to create the holes, including the one for the module adjustment pot.

 

[crouzet951]

That's all for now. I'll be back tomorrow with the conclusion.

Cheers
John

 

[sesteve]

Wow more fantastic pictures and great to see such a detailed restoration. Looking forward to the conclusion

S