mikeymatic
Well-known member
Another lovely Logic.
A bit work needed to tidy it up but its working fine.
A bit work needed to tidy it up but its working fine.
Hoover Logic 1000 A3670
- Thread starter mikeymatic
- Start date
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electron1100
Well-known member
A Logic
Well done Mike nice to see another logic, hope you enjoy it
Gary
Well done Mike nice to see another logic, hope you enjoy it
Gary
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Cheers Gary.
Think this one needs new bearings as there is a bit of funky sound when spinning, although it's lots quieter than the A3954 I got last month.
This one was made in 1988 - great that it's still going - well made machines indeed.
After having a quick look inside, it feels more 'old school' than the A3954.
Looking forward to getting it cleaned up.
Do you know of anyone who has Hoover Service manuals ?
Any info or tips are much appreciated.
Mike.
Think this one needs new bearings as there is a bit of funky sound when spinning, although it's lots quieter than the A3954 I got last month.
This one was made in 1988 - great that it's still going - well made machines indeed.
After having a quick look inside, it feels more 'old school' than the A3954.
Looking forward to getting it cleaned up.
Do you know of anyone who has Hoover Service manuals ?
Any info or tips are much appreciated.
Mike.
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Service manual
Got my hands on a service manual.
Apparently it's a B line machine exclusive to Currys.
Door seal and new drive belt are ordered.
Let the fun commence !
Got my hands on a service manual.
Apparently it's a B line machine exclusive to Currys.
Door seal and new drive belt are ordered.
Let the fun commence !
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Overhaul underway
And the overhaul begins ..... A few signs of leakage / rust
And the overhaul begins ..... A few signs of leakage / rust
mikeymatic
Well-known member
These nuts haven't been off in years ....
mikeymatic
Well-known member
It was unplugged !
All the lights illuminate after I'd removed the heater & motor connections .... It was unplugged of course.
All the lights illuminate after I'd removed the heater & motor connections .... It was unplugged of course.
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Lots of cleaning going to be needed
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Reservoir removal a problem
It came off in my hand
It came off in my hand
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Rust takes it toll
Couldn't save this one from crumbling away - the remaining 11 were OK.
Couldn't save this one from crumbling away - the remaining 11 were OK.
mikeymatic
Well-known member
All is revealing
In a better state than I expected.
In a better state than I expected.
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Lots of crud to clean off
Just aswell I already got a new tub seal ( thanks for the advance warning Gary ).
Just aswell I already got a new tub seal ( thanks for the advance warning Gary ).
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Heater
mikeymatic
Well-known member
The clean up begins ......
White vinegar and cloths at the ready. The big clean up begins.
The A3110 restoration thread on here from last year has been a massive help to me - thanks to all who put this on. This is my first big overhaul.
My plans are:
1. Clean up !!
2. New door seal
3. New tub seal
4. New reservoir assembly - if anyone knows where I can get my hands on one of these I'd be eternally grateful !
5. New brushes.
6. Considering new motor bearings while I have everything apart- any advice appreciated.
7. Hammerite on the bits that need it.
8. Possible new suspension kit - again any advice here would be appreciated.
More posts to follow as work progresses.
Mikey.
White vinegar and cloths at the ready. The big clean up begins.
The A3110 restoration thread on here from last year has been a massive help to me - thanks to all who put this on. This is my first big overhaul.
My plans are:
1. Clean up !!
2. New door seal
3. New tub seal
4. New reservoir assembly - if anyone knows where I can get my hands on one of these I'd be eternally grateful !
5. New brushes.
6. Considering new motor bearings while I have everything apart- any advice appreciated.
7. Hammerite on the bits that need it.
8. Possible new suspension kit - again any advice here would be appreciated.
More posts to follow as work progresses.
Mikey.
Hoover Restoration!!
Look good and a fine start there Mike, here is a link to a thread we did last year while upgrading Richards Hoover A3110 may give you further help n tips!!
www.automaticwasher.org
Look good and a fine start there Mike, here is a link to a thread we did last year while upgrading Richards Hoover A3110 may give you further help n tips!!
Hoover A3110 Washing Machine Restoration 1980 Model...
Last year Richard (Richard1983) from Leeds UK posted about his Hoover 1980`s A3110 washing machine started to have a few issue, pump, leaks, suspension and then timer sticking issues, we where going to get him along at the next meet up but having thought about it on a busy weekend it would be...
www.automaticwasher.org
Hoover Restoration!!
Part 2....
www.automaticwasher.org
Part 2....
Hoover A3110 Washing Machine Restoration 1980 Model...Part 2
So after those scrummy cornish pasties its back to work, Timer - Check, Tub - Check, Motor - Check, now for the wheels, suspension, pump and back together!! First up new wheels, which had flattened from sitting 30 odd years....We can now see the extent of the dripping water down the tub and onto...
www.automaticwasher.org
triumphtoledo
Well-known member
rust
Looking good, although I would advise against using Hammerite, as it is not suitable for the job. In some cases, it can trap rust and water, allowing the corrosion to breed.
Use an appropriate rust converter, plus an epoxy mastic paint in black. I use it on my old classic cars (and also on my Hoover Logic with great success) www.rust.co.uk
R
Looking good, although I would advise against using Hammerite, as it is not suitable for the job. In some cases, it can trap rust and water, allowing the corrosion to breed.
Use an appropriate rust converter, plus an epoxy mastic paint in black. I use it on my old classic cars (and also on my Hoover Logic with great success) www.rust.co.uk
R
mikeymatic
Well-known member
Rust
Thank you for the info.
I was just about to start on the inside of the outer tub and the backplate.
Would you recommend using the fe 123 rust convertor and the epoxy 121 steel renovation paint ? If so, would this be suitable for both the backplate and the inside of the tub ? ( the enamel has worn inside, across the middle of the base of the tub as shown here )
Appreciate any tips.
Thanks in advance,
Mike.
Thank you for the info.
I was just about to start on the inside of the outer tub and the backplate.
Would you recommend using the fe 123 rust convertor and the epoxy 121 steel renovation paint ? If so, would this be suitable for both the backplate and the inside of the tub ? ( the enamel has worn inside, across the middle of the base of the tub as shown here )
Appreciate any tips.
Thanks in advance,
Mike.
triumphtoledo
Well-known member
rust
Wire brush as much iron oxide (the brown stuff) from the rusty outer tub as you can, until you are left with as much shiny rust pits as you can. Use the FE123 to convert the remaining iron oxide into a more stable compound. Rust Buster may mix a smaller pot up for you.
Once cured (and left for as long as the instructions state), use the epoxy mastic (http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/) to coat over any steel. Being a two pack product, it sets rather than dries and is very, very tough. Use it over the heater mount too, which can rust and break off.
Obviously the FE123 is not suitable for the backplate, because it is not made from steel. On my logic, I used chemical metal to repair holes and, once sanded down, I coated the face inside the machine with black epoxy. No back particles have appeared in subsequent wash loads (and I did loads of oil washes, when the machine was in use), so the paint appears to be staying in place. As always, make sure you are painting clean metal, not limescale/soap scum.
Good luck!
R
Wire brush as much iron oxide (the brown stuff) from the rusty outer tub as you can, until you are left with as much shiny rust pits as you can. Use the FE123 to convert the remaining iron oxide into a more stable compound. Rust Buster may mix a smaller pot up for you.
Once cured (and left for as long as the instructions state), use the epoxy mastic (http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/) to coat over any steel. Being a two pack product, it sets rather than dries and is very, very tough. Use it over the heater mount too, which can rust and break off.
Obviously the FE123 is not suitable for the backplate, because it is not made from steel. On my logic, I used chemical metal to repair holes and, once sanded down, I coated the face inside the machine with black epoxy. No back particles have appeared in subsequent wash loads (and I did loads of oil washes, when the machine was in use), so the paint appears to be staying in place. As always, make sure you are painting clean metal, not limescale/soap scum.
Good luck!
R
