bobbins
Active member
This machine is just across the water from me...Victoria to Seattle.... hummmmm
Bob
Bob
Hotpoint Combo in Seattle
- Thread starter Unimatic1140
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Wow that one is in great shape
that boot on the door looks very good.
Nice find with the Hotpoint logo and all.
Brett now you'll have true "piece by piece" washing action to clean your dirtiest clothes.
Greg's gonna slap me for revealing that one............
that boot on the door looks very good.
Nice find with the Hotpoint logo and all.
Brett now you'll have true "piece by piece" washing action to clean your dirtiest clothes.
Greg's gonna slap me for revealing that one............
bobbins
Active member
240V or 120V ?
westytoploader
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2004
- Messages
- 4,485
This one looks like 240...most GE combos are.
Combo!
I never realized they put the Hotpoint name on the GE combos.
Peter
I never realized they put the Hotpoint name on the GE combos.
Peter
Awesome find this Hotpoint - it looks beautiful! Love those original hoses too.
gosh darn I need my house now!
Toggles, no cold water wash. I don't know if the models very near the end of production did this, but if HOT wash was selected, the temperature sequence of the 3 rinses was Cold, Warm, Hot. If WARM wash was selected, all 3 rinses were warm. They did not want to lose any heat in that machine that would help extract more water from the load or do anything to slow the drying.
The dryer dial does not move, it is a thermostat; the more dry you want things, the higher the temperature. Regular dry starts off with both heating elements on. After the initial phase of drying, both cycle off and the timer dial moves a bit. When heat is called for again, only one element cycles on and the rest of the drying is done with one heater. Once the timer moves into dry, the timer motor only runs when the heating element(s) cycle off.
The Delicate dry cycle only uses one element from start to finish.
The condensing system is pretty crude and is also how the fabric softener dispenser works. The fill for the third rinse opens a cold water solenoid that sends a stream of water onto a small metal plate above the small plastic box holding the fabric softener. This dilutes and dispenses the softener through a syphon tube. Once the drying starts, the same cold water solenoid that dispensed the softener, sends a stream of water onto this plate which is also the top most opening of the machine. The steam rises and meets this small cold plate and reservoir of water. Some of it condenses. Then the stream of water overflows from the little plastic box down the side wall of the outer tub where it does some more condensing and then goes through the strainer and down the drain. If the cold water pressure is too high, the overspray will keep rewetting the clothes. That happened in a very nice high rise in Atlanta.
Brian, check the model designation plate. At one time GE made the built in model in both 230 and 208 volt models (for apts and commercial buildings on 208). If yours is a 208 volt machine, it might dry somewhat faster because the extra wattage will cause it to reach the operating temperature faster, although the heating elements' life will be somewhat shortened.
That sawed off piece of copper pipe at the end of the drain hose tells something else about the built in combo. The drain hose had to be sealed to the drain pipe. GE did not want any water damage from leaks or back ups behind the combo because the drain was less than counter height and in kitchens, that meant below the maximun fill of the sink. If the sink or anything else above the combo could not drain properly, there was the possibility that it would back up through the combo's stand pipe. In cases where the combo drained into a standard drain pipe, the drain hose came with a flared collar on the end (probably cut off this drain hose) that was put over the drain pipe and clamped in place with a large hose clamp.
One more thing, Brian. Did you get the metal plate that goes under the combo? It would have been screwed to the floor and have a channel on each side for the feet. The fact that the undercounter installation sort of held the combo in place meant that it was less likely to trip the unbalance switch in the left front leg than the free standing model so it could give a bit better extraction.
Enjoy, Tom
The dryer dial does not move, it is a thermostat; the more dry you want things, the higher the temperature. Regular dry starts off with both heating elements on. After the initial phase of drying, both cycle off and the timer dial moves a bit. When heat is called for again, only one element cycles on and the rest of the drying is done with one heater. Once the timer moves into dry, the timer motor only runs when the heating element(s) cycle off.
The Delicate dry cycle only uses one element from start to finish.
The condensing system is pretty crude and is also how the fabric softener dispenser works. The fill for the third rinse opens a cold water solenoid that sends a stream of water onto a small metal plate above the small plastic box holding the fabric softener. This dilutes and dispenses the softener through a syphon tube. Once the drying starts, the same cold water solenoid that dispensed the softener, sends a stream of water onto this plate which is also the top most opening of the machine. The steam rises and meets this small cold plate and reservoir of water. Some of it condenses. Then the stream of water overflows from the little plastic box down the side wall of the outer tub where it does some more condensing and then goes through the strainer and down the drain. If the cold water pressure is too high, the overspray will keep rewetting the clothes. That happened in a very nice high rise in Atlanta.
Brian, check the model designation plate. At one time GE made the built in model in both 230 and 208 volt models (for apts and commercial buildings on 208). If yours is a 208 volt machine, it might dry somewhat faster because the extra wattage will cause it to reach the operating temperature faster, although the heating elements' life will be somewhat shortened.
That sawed off piece of copper pipe at the end of the drain hose tells something else about the built in combo. The drain hose had to be sealed to the drain pipe. GE did not want any water damage from leaks or back ups behind the combo because the drain was less than counter height and in kitchens, that meant below the maximun fill of the sink. If the sink or anything else above the combo could not drain properly, there was the possibility that it would back up through the combo's stand pipe. In cases where the combo drained into a standard drain pipe, the drain hose came with a flared collar on the end (probably cut off this drain hose) that was put over the drain pipe and clamped in place with a large hose clamp.
One more thing, Brian. Did you get the metal plate that goes under the combo? It would have been screwed to the floor and have a channel on each side for the feet. The fact that the undercounter installation sort of held the combo in place meant that it was less likely to trip the unbalance switch in the left front leg than the free standing model so it could give a bit better extraction.
Enjoy, Tom
exploder3211
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2006
- Messages
- 1,664
Glad it was saved by another memeber
This sounds like a timer problem because the direction of tumble dictates what the combo will do. Wash and rinse tumble in clockwise direction, I think. Anything involved in draining, and this includes DRY to pump out the condensation water, tumbles or spins counter clockwise. This is reversed if I have it wrong. This directional operation is because the direction in which the motor is turning the pump determines whether it drains or not since it only drains in one direction. The timer has a very tricky sub-interval switch that works during the pump out periods to control the flushes at the end of each drain.
So even in the SOAK cycle, it seems stuck in dry? What happens if you push WASH ONLY or, more truthfully, DRIP DRY? Does the machine stop drying? While it is drying, does the cold water solenoid for the condensor work?
The timer can be rebuilt, but getting the sub-interval switches to work right gives the rebuilders trouble. Tom
So even in the SOAK cycle, it seems stuck in dry? What happens if you push WASH ONLY or, more truthfully, DRIP DRY? Does the machine stop drying? While it is drying, does the cold water solenoid for the condensor work?
The timer can be rebuilt, but getting the sub-interval switches to work right gives the rebuilders trouble. Tom
