norgechef
Well-known member
I was thinking about getting a new one but not unless the water level switch is tweak-able.....i see that now they only fill to a small level on the rinse and not completely full on the first part of the cycle...........
How to tweak water levels on roper/estate/inglis machines?
- Thread starter norgechef
- Start date
Help Support :
These machines have 2 water level switches..one for wash, which is user adjustable, and one for rinse, which has a higher setting. You have to open the console and remove the rinse level switch from the console. You will see a small nub that must be turned clockwise with needle nose pliers to the higher setting. The higher setting is the same as the largest setting on the wash water level switch. These machines only fill 3/4's of the way up anyway. You can hold the wash switch in between settings and hold it there until the desired level is reached, but you can't adjust to a higher level on rinse.
These were always my favorite machines...hard to beat for the $$$$. They will go out of production soon...such a sin!!!!
These were always my favorite machines...hard to beat for the $$$$. They will go out of production soon...such a sin!!!!
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
As I understand it, before adjustment it was around 7" of water from the bottom of the basket and 14" after according to tech support...
RCD
RCD
norgechef
Well-known member
So....
If i just take out the rinse water level switch and put the other up to full setting it will operate like normal whirlpools made before 2011.....when will they go out of production?
If i just take out the rinse water level switch and put the other up to full setting it will operate like normal whirlpools made before 2011.....when will they go out of production?
Ok, I should comment here..
I don't think it is a good idea to buy a BOL machine like this, then have to tweak it to be usable.
More to the point, it's not just the water pressure switches that are the problem. What other corners did they cut to get the price of this machine down that low?
First thing that comes to mind are plastic components. Plastic outer tub, Plastic gears, etc.
Unless you want to learn and "play with" the machine a bit, I'd recommend sticking with purchasing a proper machine that you don't have to modify.
When I looked at one of these Roper machines, they were selling for about $380.
In comparison, a BOL Huebsch top loader is about $270 more. The TOL machine is about $200 more ontop of that.
IMHO, Don't waste your money, just save your pennies and get a machine which will put that cheap Roper to shame, both in washing performance and durability.
I don't think it is a good idea to buy a BOL machine like this, then have to tweak it to be usable.
More to the point, it's not just the water pressure switches that are the problem. What other corners did they cut to get the price of this machine down that low?
First thing that comes to mind are plastic components. Plastic outer tub, Plastic gears, etc.
Unless you want to learn and "play with" the machine a bit, I'd recommend sticking with purchasing a proper machine that you don't have to modify.
When I looked at one of these Roper machines, they were selling for about $380.
In comparison, a BOL Huebsch top loader is about $270 more. The TOL machine is about $200 more ontop of that.
IMHO, Don't waste your money, just save your pennies and get a machine which will put that cheap Roper to shame, both in washing performance and durability.
Qualin
They didn't cut any corners. It costs money to de-content parts and then stock new/different parts, etc. The plastic outer tubs have been present in DDs from the start, and are injection molded. They cannot be made with less material unless a whole new mold is built (at a cost of hundreds of thousands of dollars or more). The part numbers of the components used on these machines are the same as always for gearcases, tubs, baskets, etc. The price is low because the tooling has been amortized and fully depreciated, the line in the plant is not yet converted to the VMW so they need something to fill the capacity, and the DD washer, still made by the tens of thousands, has always had a high degree of mark-up, so they are simply selling for less. You should really check your facts before you become such a nay-sayer, at least when offering advice.
As to when production ends, I was told either end of this month, or end of April. I think end of April.
About the rinse level switch -- it is not as simple as taking out the rinse pressure switch. The wiring to it would have to be meshed with the wiring to the wash pressure switch in order for proper circuits to be satisfied, and even then without experimenting/seeing a machine, I don't know what other things should be jumped to be safe, etc. Best bet is to install a pressure switch for wash from Whirlpool's recent WTW5100 (then you'll get a full wash fill) and set the rinse at full fill provided by the current switch, OR install a single level DD pressure switch in its place which provides a full fill. I wouldn't modify electrical wiring unless you are comfortable and feel safe doing so.
Gordon
They didn't cut any corners. It costs money to de-content parts and then stock new/different parts, etc. The plastic outer tubs have been present in DDs from the start, and are injection molded. They cannot be made with less material unless a whole new mold is built (at a cost of hundreds of thousands of dollars or more). The part numbers of the components used on these machines are the same as always for gearcases, tubs, baskets, etc. The price is low because the tooling has been amortized and fully depreciated, the line in the plant is not yet converted to the VMW so they need something to fill the capacity, and the DD washer, still made by the tens of thousands, has always had a high degree of mark-up, so they are simply selling for less. You should really check your facts before you become such a nay-sayer, at least when offering advice.
As to when production ends, I was told either end of this month, or end of April. I think end of April.
About the rinse level switch -- it is not as simple as taking out the rinse pressure switch. The wiring to it would have to be meshed with the wiring to the wash pressure switch in order for proper circuits to be satisfied, and even then without experimenting/seeing a machine, I don't know what other things should be jumped to be safe, etc. Best bet is to install a pressure switch for wash from Whirlpool's recent WTW5100 (then you'll get a full wash fill) and set the rinse at full fill provided by the current switch, OR install a single level DD pressure switch in its place which provides a full fill. I wouldn't modify electrical wiring unless you are comfortable and feel safe doing so.
Gordon
macboy91si
Well-known member
DD Performance
I too am in agreement with Gordon.
I would also like to add, that while the SQ machine may be a good machine, it is hard to dispute the DD platform as being a good performer for the money for the last 30 years. These are the last of these machines and for a new machine here they are priced at about $359. The comparable SQ is closer to $550 - $600 depending on retailer. The only thing to dislike about the Roper/Inglis/Estate machines is the rinse-level, which can be adjusted.
As I recall, small changes are also being made to the SQ machines to bring them to standards so who knows how long those machines will be acceptable use machines. Also remember that many SQ commercial machines (new) do grey-water rinses, so in a way, I'd rather have a low water rinse than a grey bath in half-used wash water. This could someday be implemented in the home machines.
If a simple switch in the control panel area needs to be tweaked, what's all the fuss about. We have people all over the place tweaking the water level on SQ machines, now there must be a reason for that. Anyone who has ever worked on a recent DD machine can attest how easy it is to get to the control panel guts. I don't condone rewiring any machine if you don't know what you're doing, but setting a hidden switch isn't difficult.
I really am surprised at the number of people who sling at these machines, all over a silly switch. I personally find DD machines boring, I'd much rather have a vintage machine, but they are good machines. When they are gone and the people are moaning and groaning about their wash-plate machines when they could have had one last DD machine it will be a shame.
Really though the new DD put-downs are irritating especially when considering people are making the same tweaks to the SQ's as would need to be made to these.
-Tim
I too am in agreement with Gordon.
I would also like to add, that while the SQ machine may be a good machine, it is hard to dispute the DD platform as being a good performer for the money for the last 30 years. These are the last of these machines and for a new machine here they are priced at about $359. The comparable SQ is closer to $550 - $600 depending on retailer. The only thing to dislike about the Roper/Inglis/Estate machines is the rinse-level, which can be adjusted.
As I recall, small changes are also being made to the SQ machines to bring them to standards so who knows how long those machines will be acceptable use machines. Also remember that many SQ commercial machines (new) do grey-water rinses, so in a way, I'd rather have a low water rinse than a grey bath in half-used wash water. This could someday be implemented in the home machines.
If a simple switch in the control panel area needs to be tweaked, what's all the fuss about. We have people all over the place tweaking the water level on SQ machines, now there must be a reason for that. Anyone who has ever worked on a recent DD machine can attest how easy it is to get to the control panel guts. I don't condone rewiring any machine if you don't know what you're doing, but setting a hidden switch isn't difficult.
I really am surprised at the number of people who sling at these machines, all over a silly switch. I personally find DD machines boring, I'd much rather have a vintage machine, but they are good machines. When they are gone and the people are moaning and groaning about their wash-plate machines when they could have had one last DD machine it will be a shame.
Really though the new DD put-downs are irritating especially when considering people are making the same tweaks to the SQ's as would need to be made to these.
-Tim
As explained in my previous post, the rinse level switch can be adjusted to use the same amount of water as the "full" setting on the load size user adjustable switch. There is no need to do any rewiring.
I have always LOVED these washers...they have improved over the years to become the most dependable top loader...bar none!!! For the $$$$ they can't be beat!!!
No other machine that is currently produced has the history that the DD machine has. I have seen 15-20 year old DD washers still in use. Easy to fix and wide availability of parts are just 2 of the advantages. Also a dual action agitator will improve washing performance, as I have NEVER liked the straight vane agitator. Doesn't move the load as well. Shredmore would be an accurate description of a DD washer with a straight vane agitator with a large load.
Time will tell if the SQ top loader will be as trouble free..though it is a more robust design. Center tub seals, brake pads and belts have been problematic on the earlier Amana Searcy washers. Not so easy to work on, especially if a tranny needs to be changed.
Rant over!!!!
I have always LOVED these washers...they have improved over the years to become the most dependable top loader...bar none!!! For the $$$$ they can't be beat!!!
No other machine that is currently produced has the history that the DD machine has. I have seen 15-20 year old DD washers still in use. Easy to fix and wide availability of parts are just 2 of the advantages. Also a dual action agitator will improve washing performance, as I have NEVER liked the straight vane agitator. Doesn't move the load as well. Shredmore would be an accurate description of a DD washer with a straight vane agitator with a large load.
Time will tell if the SQ top loader will be as trouble free..though it is a more robust design. Center tub seals, brake pads and belts have been problematic on the earlier Amana Searcy washers. Not so easy to work on, especially if a tranny needs to be changed.
Rant over!!!!
norgechef
Well-known member
@coldspot66
Could you please tell me how i can readjust the rinse switch? like where its located and what part to turn to get it to fill up the whole way?
Could you please tell me how i can readjust the rinse switch? like where its located and what part to turn to get it to fill up the whole way?
Coldspot
The question was suggested or asked about skipping or bypassing the rinse level switch in order to use the wash switch for both fills. In order to do that in these machines, there would be re-wiring required. That is the only reason it was discussed.
The question was suggested or asked about skipping or bypassing the rinse level switch in order to use the wash switch for both fills. In order to do that in these machines, there would be re-wiring required. That is the only reason it was discussed.
norgechef
Well-known member
@ Kenmoreguy64
Like what kind of rewiring? like pulling some wires out of the other one and putting them in terminals on the regular one or like really hard rewiring?
Like what kind of rewiring? like pulling some wires out of the other one and putting them in terminals on the regular one or like really hard rewiring?
New DD Washers with dual water level switches
It would be fairly easy to just wire the machine to use the user adjustable wash water level switch. That said I do not recommend that anyone not experienced with electrical appliance wiring do this.
These are great machines and I agree with John, Gordon and Tim on this, I could agree with you Bud on this but then we would both be wrong LOL.
It would be fairly easy to just wire the machine to use the user adjustable wash water level switch. That said I do not recommend that anyone not experienced with electrical appliance wiring do this.
These are great machines and I agree with John, Gordon and Tim on this, I could agree with you Bud on this but then we would both be wrong LOL.
DirectDriveDave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Messages
- 456
Plastic outer tub.
Ya know, I certainly do like when parts are metal as opposed to plastic, but one thing I like about the plastic outer tubs is that I never have to worry about it rusting.
Ya know, I certainly do like when parts are metal as opposed to plastic, but one thing I like about the plastic outer tubs is that I never have to worry about it rusting.
norgechef
Well-known member
Wiring experience
Who would know how to rewire it? an appliance repairman? i really want one of these direct drives but i refuse 2 get one unless it will fill as high as a large load should, personally i think it is absolutely ridiculous that they would make a rinse switch especially if it only fills up to a small load! is there anything on the rinse switch i could just turn with a screwdriver or something that would make it fill to a large load on rinse?
Who would know how to rewire it? an appliance repairman? i really want one of these direct drives but i refuse 2 get one unless it will fill as high as a large load should, personally i think it is absolutely ridiculous that they would make a rinse switch especially if it only fills up to a small load! is there anything on the rinse switch i could just turn with a screwdriver or something that would make it fill to a large load on rinse?
norgechef
Well-known member
Nevermind i found another way.....
When it gets to rinse i can just set the timer back to start then it will fill up full way! but i still have 1 concern, how to bypass the invisible lid switch? i read somewhere to unscrew the left lid hinge and put the lid switch thing down then you can keep the lid open while its washing.....is that right? and does anybody know when the direct drives go completely out of production?
When it gets to rinse i can just set the timer back to start then it will fill up full way! but i still have 1 concern, how to bypass the invisible lid switch? i read somewhere to unscrew the left lid hinge and put the lid switch thing down then you can keep the lid open while its washing.....is that right? and does anybody know when the direct drives go completely out of production?
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
The second pressure switch was added to try to satisfy compliance with govt energy savings. For another example, we'll use the Amana mfg'd bottom freezers. They use a evaporator fan motor that employs a built in computer chip to save some minuscule amount of energy to help get it under the energy threshold. The fan motor design is prone to failure but... So anyway, it fails and the replacement is actually a retrofit to the common design motor used forever but uses a little more energy. Now, this is ok because once the unit is sold and put into service, you can use that part that uses a little more energy without causing the manufacturers trouble (as it's been explained to me...)
So. Once the washer has been sold, that water level can be adjusted to the higher level. It's a regular switch with the adjustment shaft cut back so it doesn't stick thru the panel. The shaft is still there and is basically a two position switch. Just 'click' it to the higher position.
RCF
So. Once the washer has been sold, that water level can be adjusted to the higher level. It's a regular switch with the adjustment shaft cut back so it doesn't stick thru the panel. The shaft is still there and is basically a two position switch. Just 'click' it to the higher position.
RCF
To Red & Kenmoreguy
Wow, who would have thought it would have been that simple..
To Kenmoreguy:
You bring up some very valid points.
I didn't realize that the modification was that simple.
I guess I just come from the old school where "You get what you pay for" always applies.
Norge: If you do decide to buy one of these machines and you do modify it, take lots of pictures and post them here so that others can do it too. As well, taking pictures will help you keep track of what you did so you can undo it later.
Wow, who would have thought it would have been that simple..
To Kenmoreguy:
You bring up some very valid points.
I didn't realize that the modification was that simple.
I guess I just come from the old school where "You get what you pay for" always applies.
Norge: If you do decide to buy one of these machines and you do modify it, take lots of pictures and post them here so that others can do it too. As well, taking pictures will help you keep track of what you did so you can undo it later.
