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ok kids the 220v line is in.
Went with the 4-wire,4-prong "modern" socket and plug flex-cord.
Thanks for the great day and the great lunch and dinner boys!
I'm a bit perplexed at the air-circuits and drying process of this condenser dryer that uses cool room-air to condense moisture.
Someone had kindly posted a picture of an air-flow and pictorial that explaied it. Any chance of a repost pretty-please?
The look on Brian's face was priceless as the dryer came to life. Glad you allowed me to make it happen!
Thanks to all in the house for their friendship and hospitality!

So tell us about her maiden load..........
 
Thank you!

It's great to read how this dryer actually works. I tried the dryer out today and it worked very well. Collected a fairly good amount of water in the tray and lots of lint. I still have to give it a good cleaning out underneath as I saw some lint buildup.

Unfortunately the timer does not work, so I am manually timing out the load. The on/off switch on the console only seems to trip the orange pilot light on the console on or off. I don't physically see anything happening otherwise. Is there supposed to be a cool-down period like I see with my 70's Lady Kenmore and my modern front-loader? Since it is completely manual, what time point would I have to point to on the dryer so it will begin its cool-down. The clothes come out mighty hot otherwise.

I can't thank Steve enough for his excellent work on setting me up with some 240v. Thank you!!
 


There is no cool down on this dryer. Pull them a bit early while they're still lightly damp and a bit steamy, any wrinkles left will fall right out if you hang them promptly.

I'd run it on low temperature, the med and high settings are very, very hot and has been known, to yellow whites due to the high heat (so I've heard)

Sounds like the drum light and the ozone bulb need replacing if the switch is not turning them on, unless the switch is faulty.
 
High is quite hot!

Hey Joe, I must agree, I have never felt my clothes so hot! I will look for the presence of a light bulb to replace on the dryer. I hear different thoughts on ozone bulbs and there health-iness. Should I even bother with an ozone bulb anymore. It will take a bit of getting used to pulling them out at the right time, as I am so spoiled by sensor dryers that tell you when the clothes are dryer to your liking. Either they are steamy and damp or they are bone dry and very hot. I am going to dry on medium on some of my thinner clothes and save the high for towels and such.

Does anyone have an electronic or paper form of the TR-60 dryer manual or know where I could find it?

Thanks,
Brian
 
There is no cool down on this dryer.

IIRC the last 10 minutes of the cycle is tumble only. When I time a cycle I calculate an extra 10 minutes of a dry tumble.

They take some getting used to - but once you've got them down they aren't so bad to use.
 
Remember there were few man made fibers back then, and most clothing was made from heavier (and some may say better quality) cotton, linen and wool, which when coupled with the differences in extraction from washers of that period versus today, meant laundry was quite wet. You needed that dryer really hot to get the laundry dried in a reasonable amount of time, so Madame didn't have a back up of laundry waiting coming out of the washing machine.

Much like some laundromat washing machines today, which IMHO leave items quite wet. Things spun in my Miele and dried in laundromat dryers, finish faster than the same amount of laundry washed there, then bunged in the dryer.

My favourite cartoon featuring a "hot" dryer of the period, shows Lucy from "Peanuts" fetching her brother's (Linus)blanket from the dryer with a long stick, then chucking it at him, Linus jumps in the air, from nearly being "burnt" from how hot the blanket was! *LOL*
 
Brian, the beet match for this dryer is your Unimatic. Golittlesport's mom had a slat-front westy Laundromat and a 1955 Filtrator. With the amount of wateer left in the clothes from the wety, tghe dry tray was always overflowing on the basement floor each load. Towels washed in a Unimatic will dry in 30 to 40 minutes. Shirts and such should be dried on low temp as it is such a hot dryer. If you will turn the timer to about 30 minutes and then begin slowly turning the timer back toward off, there SHOULD be a "click" in the timer between 3-10 minute mark. That's the point at which the heating elements were shut off for a brief cool down.
 
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~IIRC the last 10 minutes of the cycle is tumble only.

If so there should be a "click" heard and or felt in the timer at that point.

It should be interesting to see if the ozone lamp and the light lamp(bulb) are wired seperately, in parallel or in series. If we ( oooh did I just volunteer? LOL) have to do some creative witing to get rid of the ozone lamp and get the drum lamp working, i'd say is should be no problem.

I will probabably be in NJ the weekend of 02/27 and 02/28 if you want to do this excercise all over again to get you a few 110v lines! Let's talk offline.

Glad the machine is bringing you such joy!

Many condenser dryer will not fully dry the clotes and leave them a bit dew-y. Once they sit in the room for a few minutes they finish drying! Nice to see that the thermostat has infinite settings between its "high" and "low". I'd use th "low" at all times!

Didn't someone say that these machiens fluff towels and leave them soft as heck?
 
Joe, it's a very short cool down. I don't think there was much change in Filtrators from 1952 on. The 1958 Filtrators advertised "wrinkles-away" for wash'n'wear. Tomturbomatic mentioned once that in the owners manual the instructions were something like partially pulling out the filtrator cartridge for washn'nweear loads and reducing th4e temperature quite a bit. This also let the load cool down more. Many dryer manufacturers began touting a "conditioning" period at the end of the cycle to allow theload to cool some (about 5 minutes). I remember our 1952 or 1953 TimeLine dryer did this for about the last 5 minutes.
 
As Appnut stated, I grew up with a 55 Filtrator and my mom would never set it above "medium" because it got so hot. I recall Frigidiare repair men always telling her she should get a Frigidiare washer because the Filtrators were not designed to be used with washers that did not extract well. (And I would try to talk her into doing that...although I loved the Westy Laudromat we had, I also loved my grandmother's 55 Unimatic, which was the twin to our dryer.) But my mom never did run out and buy a new washing machine just because I thought she should...go figure.

I am very fortunate to have a set of 55's now...my dream machines. I had forgotten how hot that dryer gets. But that steam-baking really makes for soft towels!

golittlesport++2-15-2010-22-35-50.jpg
 
About the lights

They are wired in series, I think with the regular bulb first and then the ozone. I put a new bulb in because the 40w Sylvania was burnt out. Unfortunately the bulb still does not light. I am not sure if the ozone bulb still works, but I noticed a little drop of mercury rolling around inside it. I just left the ozone bulb in the socket to keep dirt out.

Is it the most likey burnt out ozone bulb preventing the regular one from lighting since they are in series?

Also, did notice the dryer yellowed a pillowcase and old sweater from being
too hot. Oops! I will try medium and lower from now on.

From my Whirlpools to the Filtrator, I get about half to two-thirds full tray of water. Noticed water under the dryer though. Have to read the info page more. Is there more about the dryer then those 2 pages?
 
~They are wired in series.

Try two light bulbs of the same wattage. they'll each be getting only 55 to 60v, but it's better than nothing.

I'd wrap the ozone lamp in a plastic bag before attempting to remove it. If remvioing it that scares you, then maybe it's best to just bypass it electrically, and leave it in place.
 
I think I will just leave the ozone lamp in place and rewire the socket to bypass the ozone lamp so it will work again. Still deciding if it would really be beneficial to have an ozone lamp. It would be funny to see a 60w bulb only being 30w though due to the half voltage if I put in 2 regular bulbs. At least the 2 bulbs would last a very long time though. Just not keen on them being wired together though because then the tub bulb has to be on during the drying load for the ozone bulb to have an effect, or the ozone lamp on when your removing clothes, which cannot be healthy for your electric bill or you respectively.
 
Actually, cutting the voltage in half with a constant resistance (Ohms) means you will be drawing 1/4 the rated wattage.

My regualr U.S. electric dsryer is designed to have 220v across the heating element which normally draws, say, 5,000w. On 110v it draws only approximately 1,250w enabling me to use an ordinry 110v home circuit.

So, in theory, two 100w lamps in series each getting 55-60v each will draw 50w! LOL

:-)
 

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