I went to see a guy about a dryer... and brought these home too!

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The next screens are programmed Lifecycle choices.

Favorite allows setting a custom cycle with a specific combination of options -- water level, temp, soak, time saver, traditional wash, etc. ... even starting at a specific cycle position.

Adjust the options as desired, call up the Lifecycle / Favorite screen and select Remember Settings.

Then run the cycle at any time via Lifecycle / Favorite / Use Favorite.

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Diaper Rinse = drain, brief spin, cold agitated rinse (Medium Wash agitation profile, adjustable by soil level), spin with sprays, final spin.

Comforter = Warm traditional wash, high water level, Easy Wash agitation profile, two deep rinses, slow spin.  Pauses before the final spin, prompts the user to push the item down below medium/high water level and press Start to continue.  This is to protect a bulky item that has billow-up from damage during spin.

Allergy = hot Eco Active wash, warm/hot agitated wash, extra rinses (double deep and sprays in the final spin).

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Sweaty = warm/hot Eco Active and agitated wash.

Muddy = cold prewash, cold Eco Active, cold agitated wash, double deep rinse, spin sprays.

Sports Shoes = warm/cold traditional wash at medium/low water level with a 15-min soak period, double deep rinse.  Also useful for children's stuffed toys.

Beach Gear = cold Eco Active, cold agitated wash, double rinse.

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Chocolate = warm/hot Eco Active, warm agitated wash with a soak period.

Tomato = warm/hot Eco Active, warm agitated wash with soak periods.

Blood/Grass = cold Eco Active, warm agitated wash.

Fruit/Wine = warm/hot Eco Active, warm agitated wash.

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Tub Clean = hot Eco Active, hot agitated wash at high water level, 2-hr soak, double deep rinse, short spin.

Max Wash = runs maximum agitation profile with what is otherwise a "normal" cycle sequence.  The soil level is still selectable to vary the agitation profile a little within the maximum range.

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Machine Status.

Diverter = Off, Heating, On, or Cooling.  The Home button toggles the diverter on/off for testing.

OOB = Off or On.  Push the tub toward the right/rear to trigger the off-balance switch for testing.

T = thermistor temp reading.

Target = ATC target temp, active only during Eco Active or agitated wash fill.

Size (refers to basket diamater) and HVDC are displayed info.

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Version Status is a "hidden" diagnostic screen that I found.

CC, MC, and Display refer to software and hardware versions of the motor board and display board.

RPM is the instantaneous reading from the motor, either during agitation and spin or if the basket is rotated manually.  Diagnostics on this model can be accessed while a cycle runs.

Pressing How Dirty Up button runs the hot water valve (at any time in Diagnostic Mode).

Pressing How Dirty Down button runs the cold water valve.

Pressing Fabric Care button toggles the pump on/off.

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This is another "hidden" diagnostic screen.

It reports some cryptic information about water level and fabric sensing, I have no idea what the numbers mean.

The header line changes per what's happening during the process -- Fill, Water Level Sense, Mix-Up, Water Level Re-Sense, Fabric Sense, Not in Sense.

Unknown Fab changes to the selected profile when sensing is finished.

WL at the bottom/middle refers to the water level, I think depth in millimeters.

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Control Options.

Restart = enabled by default, which makes the machine restart when a fault occurs in an attempt to continue the cycle.  It may try to continue several times before throwing a fault code.  Restart can be disabled as a service aid to catch a fault immediately instead of waiting for several restarts.

Recycle = disabled by default.  Enabling it makes the machine loop repeatedly through a cycle from start to finish as a service aid to catch an intermittent fault.

Hot Tub = the controller board automatically sets the Hot Tub flag during a cycle when a warm or hot wash fill occurs, then automatically clears it after the cold rinse.  Hot Tub flag set restricts maximum spin speed to medium / 670 RPM to protect the plastic tub and basket parts from potential damage at high heat.  This restriction can occur if the user manually advances the cycle to the final spin before the rinse occurs, or if the cycle is canceled or interrupted by a fault.  Hot Tub can be manually turned off if it's still set, as a service aid.

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One more.

Machine Size.  This is a separate settings menu, not directly part of diagnostics.

F&P washers on the NZ/Aus and other world markets are sold in three capacity sizes.  The controller board must be set for the physical size (basket diameter) of the machine in which it's installed, for proper agitation profiles and water levels.

The size doesn't need to change, of course, after it's set but a new controller board would need to be set before first use.

All machines sold on the U.S. market are the largest size.

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I have this washer . . .

. . . the Fisher & Paykel (rhymes with Michael) Intuitive bought in August of 2006. I am in my 7th year of trouble-free service from the washer and LOVE the machine. It chooses the water level OR you can manually vary it. It chooses the agitation speed and strength -- and, man, when it's got a load of jeans, it will really do some hard strokes. Some of the strokes are more than 360 degrees. There is a huge number of cycles as demonstrated by Dadoes posting. AND, you can change your mind and adjust the cycle if needed. It spins at 1000 rpm. I can't say enough good about the machine.

The matching dryer is the best dryer I have ever had, having had two Whirlpools and a Kenmore -- all gas. I have had one problem with the dryer in that a component of the gas valve failed and had to be replaced.

I would go with this set again as long as I could find a washer with an agitator as opposed to a plate. They are fine machines. My dealer tells me the agitator models are still made.

Good luck and happy washing.

Jerry Gay
 
Hey Jerry...good to know your pair is working nicely ..
I gather Dadoes system is going strong as well with all of the great pics.

Here is a standard pair with that dryer
with the pushed in folding tray made
by GE.

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F&P top load dryer has always fascinated me. Does it always end with the open side up? or do you roll it around?
 
 
It always stops with the drum open, at the top of course or the clothes would fall out! ... unless there's a power failure or malfunction.

The lid will unlock on a power failure and the drum can be opened by holding an exposed tab on the lid grabber mechanism and manually rotating the drum.  A sticker on exterior of the drum provides instructions.

I've not had a need to do that in 9 years.
 
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