Induction burners

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The downside of the Ikea single burner is that it takes up rather much counterspace for a single model. The plus is that you can use wide pans on it easily. I guess this one is so cheap because of it's mass production. They sell them all over the world albeit in two versions: 220-240V/2000Watts and 120V/1800 Watts.

I too noticed that there is quite a price difference with the built in models vs the single burners. I guess there is less demand for them in the USA. Ikea US has a few cheaper models ($599 and $699) not too bad for a 30 inch cooktop. Prices here in Europe are lower, but than again those are 60 cm models (23.5 inches).
 
I got a Duxtop

Single burner in 2013. It does a great job. I will say the heating zone is rather small, I would say six inches, maybe. But it serves me well for what I use it for. I use it when working with my Iron skillets, I don't use those on my ceramic top range. I have a big fryer that I like to use for chicken and catfish the Induction cook top works perfectly, I can set a temp and it stays there.

Another thing I like to use the Induction cook top for is when I make fudge. You have to boil the sugar mixture and when using the induction, I don't have to worry about it splashing over and damaging the stove. Sugar will damage a ceramic cooktop and cause it to pit. &#92

It also comes in handy for taking to pot lucks (when we can have then again) I can sit a pot of Chicken and Noodles on the Induction and it will keep it warm all day without scorching the bottom.
 
I have a Max Burton 1800 watt induction burner. Absolutely love it, though the fans a bit loud! I only have one 8" burner on my stove and this does the trick! I have a vast range of cookware and 99% is induction compatible. My burner even came with an interface to use with cookware that isn't induction friendly. I really enjoy the flexibility of the settings and even use the timer a time or two! Greg
 
Efficiency report from CookTek brochure

Benefits of Induction

CookTek® induction systems are faster and more efficient than both gas and electric. They are easy to control for precise heating and unmatched results. The induction cooktop surface remains cool to the touch for lower risk of injury and easier cleanup. CookTek® induction systems offer significant energy savings, lower utility bills, and provide a cooler, greener kitchen. How Induction Works Induction heating devices work by applying an alternating electromagnetic wave to magnetic cookware, such as stainless steel or cast iron pans. The metal molecules are attracted in different directions as the current alternates. Heat is generated from resistance and other physical processes caused – or induced – by the wave. CookTek® induction systems are 94% efficient, meaning that 94% of the energy consumed is delivered to the pan. This is unmatched by gas (typically 35%) or traditional electrically-powered cooking devices (typically 50%). As a result, induction cooking devices release less heat into the room, use less fuel, and save energy.

 
I have purchased the cheapy countertop NuWaves in the past, getting them on a buy one, get one free offer. Of course, you have to pay additional shipping and handling. 🙄 They actually work quite well, but they don't last very long. The first thing that breaks on them is the plastic membrane that covers the buttons. One I received on a buy one, get one free, was dead on arrival. I tried, but I couldn't get through to anyone at NuWave to help me resolve the problem. I think next time, I'm going to spend more money, and get one from a well-known company.
 
Single induction burners...

...have been showing up at the thrifts and Rich got me a nice one for downstairs for either $10 or 12. Once I pull it out, I'll see if I want to give it counter space next to my 7qt. air fryer!

 

I have a good amount of Calphalon tri-ply which is not induction-friendly, but also have a good amount of Le Creuset and other brands of enamel over cast iron, so it'll be worth it to have it down here. 

 

Upstairs we have a Miele combi-set with a single induction coil unit next to a 2-burner smooth top. When the local experience center was closing, I got one of the smaller induction cooktops (27" IIRC) for $50 because no one wanted it. It should drop right into the hole where the combi-set is now, once we get around to it!

 

Chuck
 
 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">I've used induction in a few places, particularly friends' homes, but basically, most of my experience is with the induction equipment I have at home, which are a Max Burton portable burner and a free-standing Electrolux range.
</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">The Max Burton portable is interesting in that it has a timer and also lets you choose between a power setting (10 equally spaced levels, I think) and a thermostat setting, which keeps a preset temperature for you -- more expensive models let you set whatever temperature, but my model, which cost all of 65-ish bucks, if I remember right, has only 6 pre-set temps, I think. If I remember right, one of them is 350F and the other is 250F, which are very practical for frying and pressure cooking. The downside is the cooling fan noise and, since it plugs into a regular outlet, it can only use 1,800W.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">The range is a very different animal. It doesn't have a thermostat or timer for the burners (although I'm told you can buy Miele-level stuff which will give you that), but it has 4 burners of different sizes/power. Power control is very fine from LO-3.00, in .2 steps, then fine from 3-7, in .5 steps, then from 7-HI/PowerBoost it goes in jumps of 1, with something like 23 steps total, not counting PowerBoost). PowerBoost shares power between the front and back burners, 2 "zones", one left and one right and you can only use powerboost for something like 10 minutes, and it switches down to Hi automatically after that. (Incidentally, different brands and even different models in the same brand may have different features, check them out if they are important to you.)</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">One of the things I've seen people struggle with, when they came to cook at my home and were not used to induction is precisely what people described above -- the size of the pot/pan matters a lot. Most of the induction burners solve this "problem" by not turning on if the pot/pan is too small for the burner, and my range seems to do that too, but it's more "tolerant" of smaller pots than a lot of brands, but if you put a "small" pot (say, 6") on the 10" burner, it will take a surprisingly long time to come up to boil, despite the fact that that is the most powerful burner and can get a gallon of water boiling in no time flat with a wide pot.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">Another thing that surprises people the most with this range is what I often tell them: do not leave <span style="text-decoration: underline;">anything</span> unattended on PowerBoost ever. In fact, when they first ask me for a demonstration, they are often startled that I do not need to "pre-heat" anything: I just start on powerboost for a few seconds, drop the oil and/or butter in the pan and it immediately starts melting, then I drop the power to "Hi" or even lower and start cooking. You can actually finish an omelette or scrambled eggs before the toaster is done with the bread.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">I would choose the pots carefully: not only the bottom sizes need to match one of your burners closely for maximum efficiency (a lot of people paid a bunch of money for woks and got disappointed, "wok" work is better on induction by either using a wide frying pan or getting a specialized induction wok burner) but you want to consider the inertia of the pot/pan too -- cast iron will take longer to cool down than something more like all-clad, and those aluminum pots covered in "ceramic" or teflon as a non-stick with a very thin stainless steel bottom to couple to the induction will heat up or cool down fastest.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">Not sure if among the responses we have answered all you wanted to know, so please do ask whatever you want to know and we may be able to help.</span>

 

 
 
Sarah, I don't have problems cooking on regular resistance coil elements, but to avoid waste heat and lighten the load on my older range surface units, I use induction to bring pans of food to cooking temperatures then move them to a surface unit that I have turned on to low or medium low to finish cooking.  It is so much more efficient to bring a pan of frozen vegetables to a boil in about 60 to 90 seconds on a 3000 watt induction unit where the heat is being created in the base of the pan than to have the same pan on a resistance element of around half that wattage which is forcing its heat into the pan and giving off a percentage of its heat to the space around it. 

 

People moving from gas to induction have more of an adjustment than thinking people used to electric cooking because the old 5 and 7 heat switches gave percentages of heat so medium high was 50% of high and on down the line so with an induction unit with 20 power positions, 10 is medium high, 4 or 5 is medium 2 or 3 is low and 1 is simmer, depending on the wattage of the unit and the quantity of food.  People who do not know that  wind up with pans that are too hot. Because of the power and efficiency, almost no cooking is done in the upper power levels, once large amounts of water, for example, are brought to a boil, although they are great for keeping water boiling when blanching stuff for canning or freezing. 
 

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