The past two days, I have made smashed potatoes to have with dinner. I used a small WMF pressure cooker. Yesterday, I had two larger sliced potatoes in it and 6 medium carrots in the steamer basket above them. I put the cooker on my 3000 watt induction unit and noted the time at 4:32 as I turned it on. At 4:35, the gauge showed a full head of pressure and I turned the control down. Three minutes to bring up full pressure in a cooker is very fast. Because of the diameter of the pan, I would have had to use a 6 inch element on my stove, but with the induction, I was able to utilize twice the wattage to start the cooking.
Induction cooking speed
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toggleswitch2
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The wave of the "future" Many of the benefits of gas cooking (instantaneous response and infinite heats), and the benefits of electric cooking (faster, cleaner, safer).
It was with great interest when I learned from our over-seas members that some units channel almost the entire supply circuit's power to one surface element ("hob") when no other "burners" are activated.
My pots and pans are magnetic and "induction-ready"
It was with great interest when I learned from our over-seas members that some units channel almost the entire supply circuit's power to one surface element ("hob") when no other "burners" are activated.
My pots and pans are magnetic and "induction-ready"
I LOVE my GE Profile induction cooktop....faster than electric and as responsive as gas without the flame and surrounding heat. All heat goes to the cooking vessel.
All heat goes to the cooking vessel.
In fact, all the heat is created IN the cooking vessel. That is part of the efficiency; you don't have to transfer heat INTO the pan FROM anything.
In fact, all the heat is created IN the cooking vessel. That is part of the efficiency; you don't have to transfer heat INTO the pan FROM anything.
toggleswitch2
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I think a cooktop with two induction units and two radiant (conventional) units would be fantastic!
Many more combinations are available via Miele's "combi-sets".
Many more combinations are available via Miele's "combi-sets".
Pressure cookers?
I've been using my pressure cooker lately and am wondering how they would work on induction. Would it work well, or would it come up to temperature too fast and maybe go over-pressure and blow the safety?
Dave
I've been using my pressure cooker lately and am wondering how they would work on induction. Would it work well, or would it come up to temperature too fast and maybe go over-pressure and blow the safety?
Dave
toggleswitch2
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No difference, just watch it....
OR set it for a lower heat (i.e what you need to MAINTAIN the steam and or temp.) right up-front!
On eof the best features of induction is no time-delay when lowering the heat!
OR set it for a lower heat (i.e what you need to MAINTAIN the steam and or temp.) right up-front!
On eof the best features of induction is no time-delay when lowering the heat!
everyone who owns a Yacht
has a pressure cooker and induction hob. no fire, no heat low energy use when buying electric power on a rented dock.
I love my 1983 Kenmore Induction cooktop, in August I make dinner inside and the kitchen never gets hot.
has a pressure cooker and induction hob. no fire, no heat low energy use when buying electric power on a rented dock.
I love my 1983 Kenmore Induction cooktop, in August I make dinner inside and the kitchen never gets hot.
spiceman1957
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I understand
that you need special cookware to use this type of cooktop, am I right? Also, does any company produce ranges with Induction cooktop or do you have to special order the cooktop?
John
that you need special cookware to use this type of cooktop, am I right? Also, does any company produce ranges with Induction cooktop or do you have to special order the cooktop?
John
John, any cookware which can hold a magnet will work with induction. (examples would be cast iron, Le Cruset) Notsuitable would be corningwar, Corning Visions, RevereWare, ...There are induction cooktops. There are now induction ranges produced by Electrolux for taht brand, maybe Frigidaire, as well as kenmore Elite. bot free-standing and slide in. I do believe GE has a new induction range too. I'm indlcluding a link to induction cooking and cookare and other info on it.
theinductionsite.com
Induction Home Page
All there is to know about induction cooking, the best method in the world for cooking, professionally or in the home.
However,
I looked into the Kenmore Elite induction range, and it requires a 50 amp, yes, 50 amp service.
I know for darn sure my landlord would NOT be willing to update for that, which is why I am going with gas. He said I could have a gas range if I paid for it, and around August, I plan on doing just that.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
I looked into the Kenmore Elite induction range, and it requires a 50 amp, yes, 50 amp service.
I know for darn sure my landlord would NOT be willing to update for that, which is why I am going with gas. He said I could have a gas range if I paid for it, and around August, I plan on doing just that.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
Lawrence, are you planning to replace an existing gas range, or an electric? A 50 amp circuit, with #6 wire, is standard for an electric range. That is, unless you have a separate wall oven and cooktop now. Have seen some places with a 40 amp circuit for the range, sometimes still using #6 wire, or with #8. If your place has #6 wire, the breaker could be replaced with a 50 amp one for not much cost.
Breakers?
My landlord don't want no stinking breakers. Still fuses.
It's a POS electric Tappan from the 80s. I hate it. Cooktop is terrible. Oven is ok, as long as you don't heat it over 375F. Manual clean oven, too. My dislike for manual clean electric ovens knows few bounds.
There's a pipe and a valve behind it. I grew up cooking on gas, when I was cooking professionally, I cooked on gas.
I thought about dual fuel, but most I have seen have features I do NOT want, like heated drawers, either warming or full second ovens. Or have no space on the cooktop, and have five burners, and grates that weigh (almost) 40 pounds each......
Lawrence/Maytagbear
My landlord don't want no stinking breakers. Still fuses.
It's a POS electric Tappan from the 80s. I hate it. Cooktop is terrible. Oven is ok, as long as you don't heat it over 375F. Manual clean oven, too. My dislike for manual clean electric ovens knows few bounds.
There's a pipe and a valve behind it. I grew up cooking on gas, when I was cooking professionally, I cooked on gas.
I thought about dual fuel, but most I have seen have features I do NOT want, like heated drawers, either warming or full second ovens. Or have no space on the cooktop, and have five burners, and grates that weigh (almost) 40 pounds each......
Lawrence/Maytagbear
I keep a small magnet in my coin purse to test cookware that catches my eye to see if it holds the magnet and would therefore work on induction units. Some pans, like Silit, label the base with the types of compatible cooktops.
Dave, pressure cooking on an induction top could not be easier. As soon as the cooker reaches the pressure setting, reducing the heat is accomplished immediately by turning down the energy imput. I have found that a few minutes into cooking, as the food stops absorbing so much heat from the steam it is necessary to lower the heat again, like from the initial setting of 20 to 12 once cooking pressure is reached and then to about 4 or 5 to finish. The WMF pressure cookers start making this LOUD moan before the regulator releases excess steam and the induction is so responsive I can turn the heat down and silence the moaning before any steam is released--like edging for pressure cookers. The two step heat reduction is also needed on an electric stove with infinite heat controls, except with Frigidaire's big fat Radiantube units, but of course, with electric surface units, you do have to switch heats just before the cooking pressure is reached. During the years when I cooked with 5 fixed heat controls, like the GE pushbuttons, just before pressure was reached, I switched from HI to Lo and had no need for further adjustment.
Dave, pressure cooking on an induction top could not be easier. As soon as the cooker reaches the pressure setting, reducing the heat is accomplished immediately by turning down the energy imput. I have found that a few minutes into cooking, as the food stops absorbing so much heat from the steam it is necessary to lower the heat again, like from the initial setting of 20 to 12 once cooking pressure is reached and then to about 4 or 5 to finish. The WMF pressure cookers start making this LOUD moan before the regulator releases excess steam and the induction is so responsive I can turn the heat down and silence the moaning before any steam is released--like edging for pressure cookers. The two step heat reduction is also needed on an electric stove with infinite heat controls, except with Frigidaire's big fat Radiantube units, but of course, with electric surface units, you do have to switch heats just before the cooking pressure is reached. During the years when I cooked with 5 fixed heat controls, like the GE pushbuttons, just before pressure was reached, I switched from HI to Lo and had no need for further adjustment.
If it's fuses,
and the wiring going to the range is the proper size (#6) to provide 50 amp service, then there would only be the cost of the 2 fuses; probably less than $10.
However, if the panelboard is so old that it's the fuse type, I would wonder about the condition of the cable or wires themselves. When I tore out my old kitchen, I found that the cable (from 1952) had deteriorated. The wire was the old rubber insulation, and it was flaking off in spots, especially inside the panel where it was bent to connect to the breakers (they had been installed in '73, original was fused). The rest of the wiring in the house was plastic insulation over the conductors, with a woven cable jacket, and was still in decent shape. The house I'm living in now (rental), has the same type cable going to the range. I keep the breaker off unless I'm going to use the range, considering it looks to be deteriorated, and original to the house, built in '38. I like old things, but not old wiring that's worn out.
and the wiring going to the range is the proper size (#6) to provide 50 amp service, then there would only be the cost of the 2 fuses; probably less than $10.
However, if the panelboard is so old that it's the fuse type, I would wonder about the condition of the cable or wires themselves. When I tore out my old kitchen, I found that the cable (from 1952) had deteriorated. The wire was the old rubber insulation, and it was flaking off in spots, especially inside the panel where it was bent to connect to the breakers (they had been installed in '73, original was fused). The rest of the wiring in the house was plastic insulation over the conductors, with a woven cable jacket, and was still in decent shape. The house I'm living in now (rental), has the same type cable going to the range. I keep the breaker off unless I'm going to use the range, considering it looks to be deteriorated, and original to the house, built in '38. I like old things, but not old wiring that's worn out.
50 amp service
I am thinking that ALL electric stoves in the USA require 50 amp service, whether they actually do. Same as ovens need 30 amps.
Case in point: I had the good fortunate to purchase, new, a Miele oven for <1/3 of the retail price. Why? It had mechanical controls rather than the 'speedcook' which I absolutely did not want. (Thanks, I can say 'cook at 350F on convection for 25 minutes I do not need to program my oven for the specific food). Anyway, the electric requirements are: For USA, 30 amps. For Canada, 20 amps.
I cannot believe that the two appliances are made different for the Can and US market.
So I'm wondering if the actual current draw would be far less.
Hunter
I am thinking that ALL electric stoves in the USA require 50 amp service, whether they actually do. Same as ovens need 30 amps.
Case in point: I had the good fortunate to purchase, new, a Miele oven for <1/3 of the retail price. Why? It had mechanical controls rather than the 'speedcook' which I absolutely did not want. (Thanks, I can say 'cook at 350F on convection for 25 minutes I do not need to program my oven for the specific food). Anyway, the electric requirements are: For USA, 30 amps. For Canada, 20 amps.
I cannot believe that the two appliances are made different for the Can and US market.
So I'm wondering if the actual current draw would be far less.
Hunter
Don't have a copy of the Canadian code, so can't say for sure, but it probably has to do with circuit loading. In the US, it's 80% of the stated capacity. This means a load on a 30 amp circuit is limited to a maximum of 24 amps. This would be 5760 watts @ 240 volts. Canada may allow more than this, which would account for being able to use the oven on a 20 amp circuit there. Maybe someone up there can fill in the details.
toggleswitch2
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Or on a 20a circuit in the USA, the max is 80% of that, or 16a.
So in the USA on 17a or above (to 24a) any such device will require a 30a circuit.
Yes I have seen 40a stove/cooker circuits here. Very rarely (if at all) would 4 stovetop-elements and the oven be energized at the same time. Further, to be pulling 100% current the top-elements would have to be on "HIGH" or else they'd be cycling on and off.
So in the USA on 17a or above (to 24a) any such device will require a 30a circuit.
Yes I have seen 40a stove/cooker circuits here. Very rarely (if at all) would 4 stovetop-elements and the oven be energized at the same time. Further, to be pulling 100% current the top-elements would have to be on "HIGH" or else they'd be cycling on and off.
Or maybe Canadian amps are like Imperial gallons, bigger so you need fewer.
