Induction cooktops

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iheartmaytag

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When I bought my new range last month I wanted a induction range, but my check book said no. So I opted for the radiant smooth top which I am very happy with, and thanks everyone for input and feed back on hidden bake element ovens, I love it.

Anyway I found a Max Burton 6200 1800W induction portable cooktop on Amazon.com that was very highly rated by Cook magazine as well as very good reviews. It should be here Friday. I am looking forward to using my cast iron chicken fryer.

Have any of you had experiences with induction cook tops? Please share good or bad. Someone stop me before I buy again.
 
Am in my 3rd year of owning one.....

and I will be honest and say its one of the best cooking methods ever !!

These are easy to use easy to clean and so energy efficient, are better than gas even as they do not heat the kitchen.

Simply put they are the one of the best inventions for the kitchen ever :o)

Austin
 
I own the Max Burton had it for years. Only thing need a new one hope you got the own with the steel over the plastic. On mine and many other the first units sold plastic front have cracked. the steel over the plastic stops that problem 100%.

I love the timer on it for pasta and such makes it so easy. Also it has a max run time think it is 2 hours longer then that you just have to restart it. The fan is a little loud, But it works great just my front has cracked,
 
I've seen these portable single "burner" induction units too and have been curious about them. They sure would be handy for portable use or even for holding something warm on a buffet table. I'm concerned with build quality and low power output, 1800 watts is only about 6000 btu's and it may be less after inefficiencies take their bite. It would nice to have instant response of gas but I don't want the low output too.

How many watts is typical for a permanently installed 240v induction cook top?
 
THEY ARE GREAT!

We've had ours since late 2011, it's a Westinghouse 4 burner one, I think *almost* 20amps when all things are used at highest power (though it cuts back power on other elements so it doesn't fry itself). 

 

You can boil water much quicker than gas, I reckon. Reason is with a gas stove/cooktop, the heat comes billowing out the sides, heating everything else in the room (including the Chef), but not the pot (This is my experience). Induction uses magnetic fields generated within itself to vibrate electrons in your pots and pans. Vibrating electrons is what causes electricity to flow in a circuit, thus, your pots and pans must be made of a conductive metal. There is no waste heat, except a little when you are finished cooking and the surface stays hot for a little while (There is a little "H" indicator for this on ours). 

 

The electrical efficiency for these is higher than standard electric cooktops, gas stoves or anything else you can think of. 87% comes to mind here (after all the electrical system in-efficiencies are factored in). There is truly no better way to cook in an area with reliable power. If you haven't use one, and still claim gas is "so much better," try it out for yourself. It IS MUCH BETTER THAN GAS. PERIOD!

<ul>
<li>Instant Heat Adjustments: Check</li>
<li>Highly efficient: Check</li>
<li>Low/No Waste Heat: Check</li>
<li>Won't burn down your house if left on: Check (Something has to be in contact with the surface, otherwise, the magnetic waves don't work)</li>
<li>Durable: It depends - I recommend being careful with these, to prevent damage</li>
<li>'Power Mode:' Check</li>
<li>Loud Buzzing During Heating: Normal/Check (Pots buzz as the electrons vibrate on the Power mode on ours. Otherwise, they make a slight "ticking" sound)</li>
<li>Needs venting: Check - these things have to BREATHE. The electrical services inside them get quite hot, so you will hear humming even after use</li>
<li>The best choice for a stove in a careful environment: CHECK!</li>
<li>Expensive: Maybe. It depends on the model, features and where you buy it. Ours wasn't terribly expensive, and is full of features too</li>
</ul>
Overall, I recommend nothing else these days. However, these types of cooktops haven't yet been introduced onto ranges. Instead, you have to buy a separate Oven/Cooktop if you are installing it in your kitchen - which is nice, since you can choose a higher end oven, rather than being tethered to something else. This is perhaps the only disadvantage (or perhaps trying to cook dinner during a black-out...). If you need a true range, then just get a Ceramic-Top model - which should heat much faster and give more control than the old-fashioned models (with/with-out the coily burner things). 
 
Yes from me too

And I have had mine for seven years. Mine is a built in unit I think the highest rated zone is 3100 watts, although as its the largest zone (of four) I hardly ever use it. To be honest I don't notice much difference between one zone and another, the zones I use depends on which size pans I am using.

I work for a catering equipment supply company and portable induction units are becoming more and more popular for servery counters. Ranges with induction tops are becoming more popular, though they are expensive, as the ventilation regulations for gas appliances in commercial environments are very strict in this country.

Al
 
kb0nes:

Our model is the PHN644DU: The wattages are as follows:

<ul>
<li>Back Left: 1400w: Power = 1800w</li>
<li>Back Right: 1800w: Power = 2800w</li>
<li>Front Right: 1400w: Power = 1800w</li>
<li>Front Left: 2300w: Power = 3100w</li>
</ul>
 
I have a 120 volt 1800 watt Vollrath that is amazingly fast. A pan of frozen veggies is boiling hard in a couple of minutes. It has both Celsius and Fahrenheit thermal level controls as well as 100 power levels so it is great for deep frying onion rings and french fries. It has a timer so once something is cooking, like rice, you can set the timer and walk away making it automatic. Since the heat is created in the pan and not transferred to the pan, the energy you are using is right in the pan.

I have two 230 volt CookTek induction units also, one 3000 watt and one 3500 watt. You have never seen pressure cookers come up to pressure as fast as on one of these and quarts of pasta water are brought to a boil very fast. They are amazing, but you do not turn your back on then when they are on full power because they heat pans of food or water so quickly. Pressure cookers maintain pressure at between levels 2-4 on the high wattage units.

I generally don't use the induction for frying because the surface units on my range are high wattage and you don't need all of that power for frying anyway, but I have done it and the main thing is that you need a much lower power level than you would imagine.

Electrolux makes a domestic range with induction surface cooking.

A couple of months ago I happened on that cooking show with the nice Italian lady and she was visiting two guys who had opened a small restaurant in Brooklyn, maybe. They explained that the kitchen was right out in the open and all that they had was induction cookers, but that they were very sufficient for their needs and they did not need special ventilation.

Old range manuals used to give percentages of heat for the various heat settings and these percentages come in handy when using induction. High is 100%, Medium High is 50%, Medium about 30%, Low is 20-25% and Simmer is around 7-10% depending on the amount of food. Small amounts of gravy simmer below 5 while frozen vegetables finish cooking at around 7%. I think frying is where people who are used to gas would use too high a setting; certainly nothing above 50% and probably closer to 30-40% for browning meats; much lower settings for heat sensitive foods like eggs.

I like the speed and efficiency of induction cooking. I don't have issues with controlling electric units so the rapid response is not so much a factor for me, but you can go from a full boil to just a few bubbles in 3-5 seconds when you turn it off and that is just the heat in the base of the pan. There is almost no waste heat certainly not like with gas and that keeps the kitchen cooler. Cleanup is a snap, because any splatters do not cook onto the glass.
 
Tom,

Is your Vollrath the 59300 "Mirage Cadet" model? It looks like a pretty solid and well featured product that is still reasonably priced.

I perused the manual and they show adjustments for both power and temperature. Is there a sensor to detect actual cookware temperature for full feedback control?

The CookTec products look good too but are perhaps a bit more commercial and high cost then what I am looking for.
 
Phil, Mine is more like the 59500, but an earlier model because I have had it for several years. Yes there is a sensor and Jeff explained that the silicone jelly between the sensor and the glass cooktop is to conduct the temperature more accurately. Since the surface is glass, I do not know if the sensor measures infra-red heat of the cooking utensil through the glass or if it uses some other means, but there is feedback. Jeff would know.
 
They may have improved the semiconductors on the latest models but the early ones were working quite close to their design limits and could easily get fried. Generally repairs these days are circuit board changing rather than component level so any electronics failure on an induction hob will result in a very big repair bill. The ones I've worked on have a main control board plus an induction board for each pair of heating zones. If an induction board fails it sometimes also takes out the control board so you have zero hob facility until it's fixed.
 
I've got one of these - love it!

Unlike others I've seen, it has a menu of settings to choose from - Fry, saute, boil, rice, soup, etc. Within each you can adjust temperature or power.

You can adjust it by wattage (300w to 1800w) or by temperature - I think from 60 degrees C to 240 degrees C.

Some of the programs are pretty hopeless - designed by an electronics engineer who can't cook is my guess - the Soup program boils hard for an hour or two before settling down to a simmer - not how I make soup!. The Rice program is silly, too, I forget the details. I don't use the programs, I just tend to set it by watts or occasionally by temperature.

It is quiet, clean, efficient.

Here in Australia where we have plastic money, sales people love to demonstrate these by placing a $50 bill on the hotplate, then place a pot of water on the top. You can boil the pot of water and the $50 note is undamaged...ALL the heat is generated in the pot, not the hotplate or the surrounding air, so they are super efficient.

 
I've considered getting an induction cooktop, but I kind of like the gas unit in place now in the main kitchen. I'm also a bit leery of having to replace most of my cookware. Currently it's either non-magnetic stainless or aluminum, neither or which will heat on an induction cooktop. Some odds and ends are "induction ready", but these are the exception not the rule. My current favorite cookware is the Earth Pan, which is nonstick without the PTFE. It works very well but is 100% aluminum and not induction ready. There ARE steel disks one can place on an induction cooking element and this will heat up and transfer the heat to a non-induction ready pan or pot. But at that point, I have to wonder, what's the point of induction then? It simply turns an induction method into a radiant or contact method, with all the drawbacks thereof.

But if one has suitable cookware, induction sounds great. I've seen 36" induction cooktops going for less than $2000, although they seem to come and go with specials and clearance sales.
 

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