Inspecting pump components on KDS-17

[fltcoils]

I'd like to inspect the pump components in my KDS-17.

I suspect it may not be pumping like it should. I ran a normal wash, and found the eggs were still on the teflon frying pan after a normal washer cycle. The food was easily wiped off with a towel....

So I'm asking how one disassembles the pump on this older kitchenaid, and how one reassembles it.

anyone with an exploded view and/or some notes, please email me or post.

thanks again.

 

[machinehead]

Well i looked in my appliance file thinking i had a picture/exploded diagram for the pump on a KDS-17A, but i can't find the damn thing so i'll go from memory, having taken mine apart a few months ago.

Somebody correct me if i'm wrong, but as far as the 17A went, after the Hydro-Sweep arm was off, and the spring-tension press-on filter screen came off, the 4 screw bolts to remove the top housing (easy no special tool stuff-- Philips, IIRC) there was revealed an impeller underneath the top housing that was interference (press-fit) on to the motor shaft directly. My thought was this impeller disc was made out of a bakelite material, very brittle and easy to crack, but the point is that on my 17A it was a direct-connect to the motor shaft. Short of a major leak between the upper/lower pump body housings, pump displacement/flow should be directly connected to motor speed. Eggs, again IIRC, are a very difficult test for dishwashers because they are protein based and can be among the hardest thing to remove. Don't ask me where i saw that, mayhap an old Consumer Reports or something. I just remember egg material was a bear for any DW and especially DW detergents. Could be wrong, but something else to keep in mind. Make sure the filter screen assy is nice and clear of obstructions, that is the main intake filter for the pump, and that the pump, once you can see it, spins easily by hand with minimal or no drag, no roughness or growl/grind noises (bearing check), no obstructions in the flow channels molded into the housings. Another source of drag i found is the upper housing that the spray arm spins on. Some have a bronze (?) bushing surface and some have a plasticy top that acts as a bearing for the Hydrosweep to spin on. Most of all be extremely careful if attempting to pry or pull off that pump wheel itself, penetrating oil left on for 1/2 hr or so combined with LIGHT tapping on the motor shaft while spraying might help pull it off if nesc, but me had no luck-- cracked and came in pieces, luckily i had a spare motor/pump assy on hand. Hope this helps!

-MH

 

[fltcoils]

I found low water, phew...

Thanks for the advice on the pump elements. It may be pumping ok, and the problem may be water level.

The manual says that the tub should fill with wather to cover the screen. mine was/is stopping a full gallong 1.5" short of that.

So I guess my next question is the pressure switch. Are there any NOS out there I could use, or should I try to adjust it/ rejuvenate the thing?

ideas, experience, photos?

thanks.

 

[appnut]

Bill, i9t sounds more like there's sediment in the water valve itself (or calcium or a defective water valve) that's preventing the proper flow of water for each fill period.

 

[stevet]

On to something!

Bill, you probably DON'T need a pressure switch as it is used for overfill protection. As Appnut, points out, the fine screen in the fill solenoid is probably clogged up and is preventing enough water from entering the dishwasher.

These units used a timed fill and a metering washer in the fill valve to moderate the water pressure to insure proper fill levels. If the screen is clogged, the flow rate is reduced and you get the reduced water level.

Turn off the water and power and pull the fill valve out and disassemble the front of it where the water line goes in. Carefully remove the screen and clean it if it is clogged and reassemble everything and reinstall it into the machine. That should clear up your problem.

If it doesn't, then you may have to check your incoming water pressure. The dishwasher was designed to work on FLOW pressure of 20-120 PSI. If your flow pressure is less that that or even marginally above 20, you could have a problem.

Check out the possibilities and get back to us for the next installment of advice if it doesn't fix the problem.

As long as your washarm support and washarm are in good condition, you should be fine if you get the proper amount of water in there.
Steve

 

[fltcoils]

Easy Enough, thanks

4 screws, remove nylon housing and clean screen.
easy enough. Thanks

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alternate reply

GADZOOKS! OUCH!! A flow calculator orifice!!!

Everything in the flowing circuit will decrease pressure a bit. A 1GPM flow restrictor orifice in the faucet will royally screw up such a system! OIY! No wonder everyone switched to a bobber microswitch.

Where is the metering washer, just in case I need to open it up a bit?

It appears to be almost exactly a 2 minute fill.
Its fills with about 6 quarts in that time.
When I pre fill it with 6 quarts using a pan, it adds another 6 quarts and brings the level up to just above the pump housing screen.

BTW, I think someone has dinked with the pressure switch in the past. I'll play with it's setting to make sure it exercises proper authority to stop the flow.

Flow calculator many use
(http://www.valcor.com/calculator.htm)

To get 1.5 gpm
Press Orif diam
20 .131
40 .110
60 .100

 

[fltcoils]

I removed the filter last night and cleaned it. Today I'll put it back together

The filter on these isn't the hose washer cone tupe, the filter is a cylinder about 1/4" diam by 1.5" long. There was a lot of crud in the filter, I soaked it in vinegar in case there was lime buildup.

The kitchen faucet flows about 18 sec/gal. With the screen attached now it flows about 22 sec / gal. So I'm hoping ...

Thanks again.